Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1234
Results 46 to 60 of 60

Thread: How to crosscut a miter on a wide, long, thick part

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    13,721
    I am. This is just proof of concept. Cutting the edge is easier on the blade; I just wanted to save myself a resharpening.

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    5,582
    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    Thanks for all the responses. I experimented with a Neander method to shoot the edge. Most bevel/ramp/donkey-ear shooting boards have the plane running flat, and the piece held at an angle. I'm sure someone out there has thought to reverse it so the piece lays flat, and the plane runs on a bevel. I tried a proof of concept this morning, and I think it'll work. I ripped a bevel on a 3x3 piece of scrap to act as the guide. Then I planed it roughly free hand. Then I cleaned it up against the ramp.

    Let's see how it goes for real.

    I just need to elevate the piece 1/4" (like all shooting boards) to accommodate the gap between the blade corner and the plane side. I may have to glue a little lip on the bottom of the ramp to allow the end of the seat to register squarely against the ramp.

    My seat is extra long currently to allow for a couple different trials (and errors!)

    Thanks again.
    You da man! Those will be a couple of sweet joints when you are done. Are you planning to spline them or dowel them to reinforce the joints?

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,495
    Seems like you're figuring it all out... but one less satisfying solution is to take it to a high end cabinet shop with a top of the line sliding table saw and have them make the cuts for you. Obviously you'll have to pay them and it will eat into your margin, but you should be able to make up for it via time savings. Think about how much time you've already spent trying to come up with a solution.

    But if you're set on doing it yourself, it seems to me you're on the right track.

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    13,721

    Setting a tablesaw bevel at 45 degrees accurately

    Time to set the bevel for the two legs and my shooting ramp.

    I'm not sure how you guys do this, but for me, I don't have a decent gauge to test my bevels for true 45 degrees.

    I did it this way:

    I cut a bevel at what-i-think-is 45 degrees at the tablesaw, then cross cut that piece in half. I then clamped the two sides together to make what should be a perfect 90 degree roof.

    May be obvious to most, but...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Northern Michigan
    Posts
    4,973
    Good for you. You will learn something new before it all done and will have a new tool in your mental tool box. Nice Plane by the way. I have an original Stanley and use it almost daily when I am in the shop.

    Later buddy......

    Larry

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Davis, CA
    Posts
    278
    I must be missing something. Why can't you miter the ends with a 12" SCMS? Do the maximum cut, flip board over, rotate saw and finish the cut.

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    13,721
    I dont have an SCMS. I appreciate all the advice about the SCMS and RAS being the right tool for the job. If I have to do this more often, I'll consider making the investment. I'm always open to new ideas, so I'm grateful for those suggestions. I was trying though to work with the stuff I had. It's always a balance isn't it? Trying to work with what you have is gratifying, but I always love the excuse to buy a new tool...
    Last edited by Prashun Patel; 12-27-2014 at 3:08 PM.

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    13,721

    One side done

    I realize this is pretty involved, but for those of us without certain capacity on our saws, this method seems to be working ok...

    I first cut the bevel as deep as possible with my circular saw, using a framing square to guide the cut.

    Next, I completed the cut with a hand saw.

    Then I made the shooting jig: I clamped a 3/4" plywood fence to the bench, then butted a 1/4" plywood sled against it. The end of the sled is cut square to the edge, which therefore provides a reference to clamp the bevel guide against.

    Once the fence and the ramp are clamped square to each other, I pulled the sled back away from the ramp edge. This is critical, because shooting boards require some clearance.

    Next, I glued a 45deg backer to the end of the seat. I wanted to eliminate tearout.

    Finally, I positioned the piece against the fence. It must be close enough that the left edge of the plane blade fully engages the top, but low enough so the right side of the blade engages the bottom of the bevel. Setting this distance was the only slightly tricky part; because the blade width is only a tad wider than the cut width, there's not a lot of wiggle room. If you don't get it just right, the blade won't cut, giving the impression that the depth of cut is the culprit. If you get to aggressive with the depth of cut, it just gouges badly. If you get the distance from the fence perfect, then a sharp blade cuts pretty easily.

    It worked pretty well...

    One lesson (that I should have) learned (the last 50 times) is to mask the top of the initial cut with the circ saw...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Prashun Patel; 12-27-2014 at 3:10 PM.

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    'over here' - Ireland
    Posts
    2,532
    Hi P. You probably know, but a reasonable quality and decent sized drawing square will often function as a very accurate 90 deg and 45 deg reference.

    Another route is to use a drawing compass to lay out first a right angle (90 deg), and then split that in half:

    http://www.mathopenref.com/constperpextpoint.html

    http://www.mathopenref.com/constbisectangle.html

    The latter will again be very accurate if you have a good big/long reach compass with sharp point and pencil - you can make one if you need to from a strip of wood.

    Do it on a sheet of good quality ply and you have the basis of a DIY square.....





  10. #55
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    13,721

    Done. Thanks

    Thanks for all the help, guys.

    Here's the finished product.

    Because the final length, 88", was too long for a single long piece, the grain matching on the ends is not perfect.

    I reinforced the joints with Dominos. I used epoxy for the adhesive.

    There is a center stretcher (2x3) under the top which (intended) you can't really see from most vantage points.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Prashun Patel; 12-27-2014 at 3:01 PM.

  11. #56
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Okotoks AB
    Posts
    3,495
    Blog Entries
    1
    Oops, deleted
    Last edited by Frank Pratt; 12-27-2014 at 3:12 PM.

  12. #57
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    River Falls WI
    Posts
    490
    Looks great! Dan

  13. #58
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    982
    Looks great. Well done.
    "Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig." Robert Heinlein

    "[H]e had at home a lathe, and amused himself by turning napkin rings, with which he filled up his house, with the jealousy of an artist and the egotism of a bourgeois."
    Gustave Flaubert, Madame Bovary

  14. #59
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Hahr View Post
    That's funny. 20-30 years ago everyone would have said RAS. I don't have one but a good one would make that cut easily. Dan
    I loaned my RAS to my uncle about 15 years ago when he was building a deck and he's still got it in his garage. Every time I think I ought to get it back, I don't want to make the 60 mile drive and I find another way.

  15. #60
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,504
    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    Thanks for all the help, guys.

    Here's the finished product.

    Because the final length, 88", was too long for a single long piece, the grain matching on the ends is not perfect.

    I reinforced the joints with Dominos. I used epoxy for the adhesive.

    There is a center stretcher (2x3) under the top which (intended) you can't really see from most vantage points.

    Nicely done Prashun! That presented an interesting situation and you found a way of overcoming it! Nicely done Sir!
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •