Delta Rockwell Wood Lathe (left outside for a year)- should I buy?

[Paul Williams]

I second David's comment. Fine wet/dry sandpaper on a flat 8x10 inch plywood or mdf board held flat on those ways will do a better job a lot faster than steel wool.

[Marvin Hasenak]

From a machinist's point of view and trying to keep the ways flat and true. http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...he-bed-259864/

I tried the the molasses trick once, but the Evaporust is easier. I cleaned up a table saw that was horrific, I did not try to remove the pitting, just got the table saw smooth again. You don't want to alter the ways, just get them smooth again so that the tailstock and banjo will move easily on them. If you want a show piece and get rid to of the pitting, I would recommend taking it to a machine shop, but you will probably pay more than it is worth.

[Rob Schwartz]

Rob, based on my modest experience restoring milled surfaces on cast-iron lathe ways and bench-machine tables, you're going to need more than steel wool and ScotchBrite pads to rejuvenate those ways. Especially if there is pitting, as there appears to be. The steel wool and pads will take forever, and if you're rubbing hard enough to remove the pitting, it will be virtually impossible to keep the surface flat.

I would do a patch test with WD-40 on some good quality 400 or 600 grit automotive-grade wet-dry sandpaper. Use a sanding block to keep the surface flat and gently work up a slurry of the lubricant. Wipe frequently with paper towel to see what you're getting.

David

I second David's comment. Fine wet/dry sandpaper on a flat 8x10 inch plywood or mdf board held flat on those ways will do a better job a lot faster than steel wool.

From a machinist's point of view and trying to keep the ways flat and true. http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...he-bed-259864/

I tried the the molasses trick once, but the Evaporust is easier. I cleaned up a table saw that was horrific, I did not try to remove the pitting, just got the table saw smooth again. You don't want to alter the ways, just get them smooth again so that the tailstock and banjo will move easily on them. If you want a show piece and get rid to of the pitting, I would recommend taking it to a machine shop, but you will probably pay more than it is worth.

There really is no pitting on there that I could find. The first layer of red rust comes off, leaving a smooth black layer, and underneath the black layer there is very smooth, shiny metal. I haven't seen any issues with the metal being pitted in any way throughout the whole process.

The paper towels that I have been wiping with just come out rusty red, then darker red. I can send more pictures tomorrow night, but everything seems to be working very well. The rust isn't that thick, either.

If the ScotchBrite pads really don't work, then I'll try out the sandpaper. But right now everything seems to be going along fine.

I will be getting a gallon of Evapo-Rust from HFT to soak the smaller parts- and I can use some of it on the ways if it turns out to take too long. Thanks fo rthe tips and I will keep them in mind.

Rob

[Brian Myers]

Personally get a razor blade in a holder and scrape what rust you can off the ways then wd40 with scotchbrite pads to finish. Treat the pitting as you wish after this.

[Rob Schwartz]

RE: "...all sorts of glue on it...' If contact cement, let solvent be your friend. Turn faceplate face up. Dampen a paper towel with mineral spirits, pat it down to make full contact. Let sit while the solvent loosens the glue, then wipe off goo. Minimal elbow grease required.

And I am remiss for not saying earlier: you got a screamin' good deal on the lathe and accessories. The spare tailstock alone could triple your money or fund new bearings-n-belts. The previous owner might need professional counseling for seller's remorse.

BobV

In fact, I purchased the lathe from a school (shop class is now officially out of style) and they were more than happy to provide the extra parts Not sure if I want to use the tailstock as of now, but I sure will hold on to it! And now mineral spirits is on the shopping list! Thanks!

[Don Bunce]

As has been mentioned before, do not use sandpaper on the ways. Soak it with penetrating oil, ( I used Liquid Wrench), and carefully scrape off the rust with a one edged razor blade.

[Marc Tuunanen]

Just realize it will be a lot of work to resurrect that beast.

[Rob Schwartz]

Just realize it will be a lot of work to resurrect that beast.

Definitely. However, I am enjoying the restoration and learning new things, so whenever the restoration is done is fine. Hopefully it will be looking good by the end.

[Michael Mills]

If you have an angle grinder a cup brush makes cleanup like yours quick. Get at least a medium duty (not the fine wire), individually they are about $5. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7839_200627839 link just for illustration.

I would also suggest a trip to the automotive store (Pep boys, Auto Zone, Advanced, etc) and pick up a bottle of "rust converter". Once you have it fairly clean a thin coating should be all you need and it can be left on as a primer. It changes any remaining rust (iron oxide) to iron phosphate.

[Marc Tuunanen]

Very nice score Rob. That will keep ya busy for awhile. I love these old machines.

Merry Christmas to you!

Cheers,
Marc

[ronald ainge]

Rob

let me be the first email I have seen from a wood turner in your area. I live in your Aurora, Co. and I am the new V.P. of the Front Range Woodturners. We meet the first Tuesday of each month at the Rockler store on Colorado Ave. about a half mile south of I-25. The meeting starts at 6:15 but you will need to get there early to get a parking space. I invite you to attend the meeting to see if you would like to join us and the club. I have owned a lathe just like the one you have and at first I could not get the variable speed to work but about 10 minutes and a few squirts of WD40 and it was working properly. This is a well built lather and if you at some time in the future want to sell it you will have no problem because there is always someone looking for a good lathe.

[Rob Schwartz]

Rob

let me be the first email I have seen from a wood turner in your area. I live in your Aurora, Co. and I am the new V.P. of the Front Range Woodturners. We meet the first Tuesday of each month at the Rockler store on Colorado Ave. about a half mile south of I-25. The meeting starts at 6:15 but you will need to get there early to get a parking space. I invite you to attend the meeting to see if you would like to join us and the club. I have owned a lathe just like the one you have and at first I could not get the variable speed to work but about 10 minutes and a few squirts of WD40 and it was working properly. This is a well built lather and if you at some time in the future want to sell it you will have no problem because there is always someone looking for a good lathe.

Hi Ronald!

I've looked at your website before, and the Front Range Woodturners club sounds very interesting to me. (You have a nice shop, by the way- saw the pictures on the site.) I would love to come over January 6th- I'll check to see if I can fit it in my schedule. Thank you for the invitation and I'll stay in touch.

Rob

[Rob Schwartz]

Finally got the indexing pin out of the indexing pulley- it was rusted into the headstock and I finally tapped it back in by being creative with scrap metal parts, screwdrivers, and a ton of WD-40 and Liquid Wrench. Hopefully I never have to repeat the experience again. Here it is, finally free:

IMG_4150

IMG_4149

Plugged in the lathe and set up the safety switch... and it whirred to life! Spindle moves and the motor sounds pretty good! I'm amazed that it functions this well after being left outside for so long. Now that everything is working properly, it's time to clean the whole thing and take it apart. The ScotchBrite and WD-40 continue to work well on the ways, and I'm not wearing them down noticeably (after working on the ways and removing the rust, the original grinder marks are still visible).

More pictures (and maybe a video) soon!

[Charles Robertson]

I agree with Dave and Paul on the use of fine wet or dry sand paper with a lubricant. WD, thinner, Kero, Fluid Film. Metal workers have been using this for years to POLISH metal. Coarse grits will grind metal. I've tried it all, I'm with Dave and Paul. Use a sanding block or as I did on my Powermatic 90, (stored in a barn) random orbit with stiff pad. I've used this method on many vintage tools with no ill effects. It's similar to finishing furniture only the paper is finer. When finished polishing, wipe down with thinner, thin coat of Fluid Film-remove excess. Polish with dry cloth, then paste wax. This has worked for me, my family before me. Good luck and Happy New Year to all. Great pictures by the way,

[Scott Ticknor]

Glad to see that you got the lathe. For $40 you can`t lose. Don`t worry about what it doesn`t have or can`t do ...You got a lathe! It will serve you well.