I can't get this plane to work properly.
Have a sharp edge, thin cut. What am I missing?
It seems awkward to use also-no doubt better at cutting the sides of grooves than dados(?)
I can't get this plane to work properly.
Have a sharp edge, thin cut. What am I missing?
It seems awkward to use also-no doubt better at cutting the sides of grooves than dados(?)
Did you file off the sharp corner of the blade? If this hasn't been done, then when the blade is set to take a cut the corner will protude, dig into the bottom of the dado/groove and generally get in the way of you being able to take full width cut of the side.
When setup correctly it should be able to cut the end grin sides of dados with ease.
Last edited by Chris Griggs; 12-17-2014 at 9:53 AM.
Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...
It came with a bit of the corner removed. End Grain easily? I must be doing something wrong. Probably need to file a little more off. I have the factory L/N----those need filing?
David,
Which maker's side rabbet are you using?
The blades need to be very sharp. Also there isn't enough of a clearance angle for the blade to have a back bevel or to use the ruler trick.
Chris hit on another problem that can sometimes be lessened by use of the depth gauge, if yours has a depth gauge.
Mine get used in dados as often as in other situations.
A piece of scrap can be helpful for setting the blade.
Your profile doesn't list your location. Any chance you are in the Portland, Oregon area? If you are in this area let me know if you would like to get together to get your side rabbet(s) to work. If you have mentioned your location in the past, I may have forgotten.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Jim, Ihave the L/N.
Back bevel? Great idea!
Depth gauge?
I am in Georgia.
Had to fly to Seattle a while back it was B-r-u-t-a-l. I abhor travel anyway. Fortunately, I slept all the way back.
Only if the blade extends below the skate when set to cut. You will notice a groove at the bottom of your dado or slot where the blade is cutting into the floor if the blade needs some work. It may be wise to hold off on filing until you can determine if it is needed.I have the factory L/N----those need filing?
The L/N may need some honing of the blade before it cuts real well.
Is it cutting straight grain?
Are you having a problem with the blade sliding over end grain or stalling on end grain.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Hopefully the smiley indicates you understand a back bevel could cause the problem to become worse.Back bevel? Great idea!
Depth gauge?
If you bought these from Lie-Nielsen they should have guides on the back that are set to match the depth of the slot where the side rabbet is used.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
No i do not understand that. is that why back bevels are not used more often?
I have a small book about back bevels. Author made it seem like WW most under used method for great results. Should I post a thread asking for the low-down?
I will look at the planes tonite.
On a bevel up plane a back bevel will reduce your clearance angle. On a side rabbet plane there is only 8º of clearance. Reducing this will have a most notable effect on end grain since it is more springy compared to edge grain.No i do not understand that. is that why back bevels are not used more often?
In some places a back bevel may be the bee's knees. My travels have never taken me to that place.
Same with camber, there are a few places where my blades are intentionally cambered. A side rabbet isn't the place.
Here is something of mine on blade camber:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...t-Finally-Came
The camber is applied to a bevel up plane by adding a back bevel. A low angle block plane is bedded at 12º giving it a little extra clearance for a back bevel. In the case of the plane in the post, a partial back bevel at the sides causes it to not cut at the edges.
A back bevel may give great results in some situations. Like so many other techniques, having a little may be good. Having any in the wrong place may be a hinderance.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
I have the LV (doesn't come with the corner filed off), so I don't know if the LNs come with the corner filed but, regardless check to see if its protruding after you set it to the depth you want, and if it is file it down some more.
LV has a video on theirs that is helpful when first learning to set this kind of plane up. Even though its a different plane than what you have, the basic setup ideas/needs should be the same.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Home/VideoPopup.aspx?v=95
Woodworking is terrific for keeping in shape, but it's also a deadly serious killing system...
The need to file down the corner is on a plane to plane basis. One of mine needs a little adjustment the other doesn't.I have the LV (doesn't come with the corner filed off), so I don't know if the LNs come with the corner filed but, regardless check to see if its protruding after you set it to the depth you want, and if it is file it down some more.
Though the video is of a differently designed tool, it is useful to owners of other makes of side rabbet planes.
Interesting the video said its sole purpose is to widen dados. Mine have even been used to make small rabbets, clean up shoulders on tenons and clean up edges on plowed slots and large rabbets.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
These are planes that need very sharp blades - no half measures. This is usually the difference between success and failure.
A comparison of Stanley, LN and Veritas models here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...bbetPlane.html
Regards from Perth
Derek
Jim, thanks for that in depth article on the camber. I must read it. Just cant right now.
My L/N comes with a bit of the corner filed off.
Last night, I tried out, and it worked fine. Even appeared to do a decent job on end grain. I suppose I had the blade out too far before. All is well for now. thanks
Getting just the right setting is a bit of a chore.I suppose I had the blade out too far before.
I am not sure with the L/N or other models, but the Stanley models can develop cracks if the blade is set to an overly deep cut or the blade holding screw is set too tight.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)