Introduction and a question

[Daniel E Hoffman]

Hello all,
I have been lurking for a while now and have learned so much from everybody here so I thank you! I have a Diamond Machine Co. lathe from 1890-1920 that was my dad's that I had played around on when I was younger. It was in his barn for years but is now in my basement and being put to use! I have turned a few tool handles, a couple small bowls and some ornaments and such and it has worked great.

My question: I am trying to turn an 8" peppermill for my parents for Christmas but have run into a problem. I only have a faceplate and spur center for the lathe. It is an odd thread size on the headstock (1-1/8" x10 tpi) so I haven't been able to find a chuck or adapter that will work. So how would you hold the blank for boring? Are screws into the endgrain strong enough? Or a glue block that would be glued to the end grain which doesn't seem like it would be strong either? What is my best bet? Thanks in advance

-Dan

[Bill White]

If you use screws (which will work), don't use sheet rock screws. Too brittle.
Bill

[Reed Gray]

Well, when I am turning end grain, I prefer a chuck to grab onto things. If you are using a face plate on end grain, make sure to toe nail or angle the screws straight into the grain as end grain just doesn't hold as well. If you are going to use a glue block and screw that to a face plate, then make a recess for the end of the pepper mill to fit into. Again, glue joints like nails and screws don't hold in end grain very well. A pepper mill may require you to take it off and put it back on a couple of times. Maybe start with some thing easier. Try to find the nearest club. It really makes a difference.

robo hippy

[Wally Dickerman]

Oneway will do special order threads for their chuck adapters. I suggest that you check with them. Their Talon or Stronghold chicks are good ones.

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

www.bestwoodtools.com sells "precision" adapters - and can make one to any size.

[Dale Gillaspy]

If you have a drill press, you could drill it from both ends on the drill press, then center it to the holes on the lathe using a tapered friction drive on the headstock and a cone center on the tailstock end. The same would work with the top. Maybe not quite as efficient as doing it all on the lathe, but it would work.

[Thom Sturgill]

You *can* drill with a tailstock mounted drill and drive center. The drill will produce some pressure to hold the piece against the center although removing the bit to clean is a problem. I would suggest locating another turner (club) in your area and see if you can do the drilling on his lathe until you can get a chuck adapter for your lathe.

[Daniel E Hoffman]

Thanks for all the tips and replies! I think I will try screwing the blank to the faceplate to do the boring and then switching to a tapered jam chuck with the live center for final shaping and finishing. If that doesn't work or I don't feel comfortable I will try using the drill press to bore it first but that seems like it could get awkward too.

Thanks for the tips on where to get custom chuck adapters, I will definitely look into that. Does anyone know if the thread diameter is measured to the O.D. of the threads or the I.D. (valleys between threads)?

[Reed Gray]

If you drill it out on a drill press, you need a vertical support, and the piece clamped to that support. Forsterner bits that size can twist the piece right out of you hand, plus, you want it square and plumb to the bit.

robo hippy

[Rick Fisher]

I have been using Kreg Screws on my face plate. I would let someone more experience than me comment on them in end grain. I use all 6 holes and on bowls, make a couple of the screws 2" kreg #8.. I find them extremely solid.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Thanks for all the tips and replies! I think I will try screwing the blank to the faceplate to do the boring and then switching to a tapered jam chuck with the live center for final shaping and finishing. If that doesn't work or I don't feel comfortable I will try using the drill press to bore it first but that seems like it could get awkward too.

Thanks for the tips on where to get custom chuck adapters, I will definitely look into that. Does anyone know if the thread diameter is measured to the O.D. of the threads or the I.D. (valleys between threads)?

Here is a standard adaptor list from Oneway, and yes the outside is the thread or spindle diameter, number of threads is how many hill or valleys are in 1 inch length on the spindle, bolt screw etc.

http://www.oneway.ca/index.php?optio...d=96&Itemid=29

If that list does not cover your thread, they will machine a custom adaptor for you.

I would drill a hole in a faceplate block, where your mill wood fits into and glue it, you do need a longer piece that way as you will have to part if off, unless you can turn most of the glue block away and remove it.

A chuck would make this an easier job for sure, good luck

[Daniel E Hoffman]

Well I was successful! I ended up turning a tenon that was then glued into a hole in a glue block screwed to my faceplate. Once the boring was completed I parted off the main body of the peppermill and shaped the top. I then used a tapered jam chuck to hold it while I shaped the body and finished the top and bottom together. I am happy the way it turned out although I think I will put on a little more finish tonight, especially on the top. Thanks for all advice I am sure my parents will enjoy it. C & C welcome.
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[Thom Sturgill]

Good job. One of the things I enjoy about turning is the challenges and interesting solutions.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Well I was successful! I ended up turning a tenon that was then glued into a hole in a glue block screwed to my faceplate. Once the boring was completed I parted off the main body of the peppermill and shaped the top. I then used a tapered jam chuck to hold it while I shaped the body and finished the top and bottom together. I am happy the way it turned out although I think I will put on a little more finish tonight, especially on the top. Thanks for all advice I am sure my parents will enjoy it. C & C welcome.
photo.jpg

Very nice mill Dan, looking better than many I’ve seen, ah yes, Walnut endgrain will take more finish in the open pores, you done well 1thumb.gif

[Daniel E Hoffman]

Thanks for the compliments! Now I just need to make a matching salt shaker....