Used Powermatic 8 inch JOINTER, price seems high to me.

[Scott Brandstetter]

Seller asking $800 and says it's like new (LOL). I am not sure but I think this is just a few years old (maybe 15 or more)

In all seriousness, any idea what would be a fair deal for this, assuming it's square and flat, no bearing issues, etc. Thanks in advance

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[Roger Chandler]

uh, don't look now but that is not a lathe! It looks like an 8" jointer!

[John M. Smith]

I vote jointer also. I would also say it is 30 years old or more. I've had my table saw for over 25 years and they were using metallic gold paint at that time. The green paint was before that.

I have an old powermatic lathe in that color dated 1965. Not sure when they switched from green to gold.

[John M. Smith]

Just pulled this off another sight. The internet is great!

Gray / Grey	1958 and before
Vista / Pea Green	1959 - 1969
Evergreen / Metallic Green	1970 - 1981
Metallic Gold 1	1982 - 1993
Metallic Gold 2 AKA 1977 GM Cadillac - Sovereign Gold Metalic	1994 - 1995
Mustard Yellow	1996 - Present

[Doug Ladendorf]

Scott, I think $800 is high for a Powermatic 60, but that one looks to be in excellent shape. Comparative value it still beats anything new in that price range. Now if it's a lathe you want to buy you might want to check out a few more videos online before spending money...

[Scott Brandstetter]

I apologize for saying lathe, too much on my mind, and, I swear, not too much egg nog. I have been searching Craigslist for months and cannot find a good or even decent buy on an 8 inch JOINTER, lol. When I do, they are gone in hours, or less. I have set my mind on getting an 8 inch Grizzly but I know a lot of you swear by the older powermatics. Just trying not to make a mistake.

Merry Christmas to everyone. May God Bless each and every one of you.

[Bob Coates]

Scott,
I have the old equivalent grizzly g0490 and have had only the capacitor go bad. About 3 years ago I added the spiral cutters and love it. For 800 I think I would pass and get a grizzly.
Bob

[Pat Scott]

I have a Grizzly G0593 jointer with 8" spiral cutterhead. I've had it for 7 years and haven't had a single problem. I should probably rotate the cutters one of these days also! (they've never been rotated yet and still cut fine). I considered a new 8" Powermatic, but if I remember right it was twice the price. My local community college had two of the Grizzly G0593's, and there was always a line to use them. The school machines take a lot of abuse, so I figured if they could stand up to students without having problems, it would serve me well. For $1000 it was a good buy.

The G0593 isn't made anymore, the replacement is G0656. The price has only gone up a couple hundred bucks in 7 years, which isn't bad.

The spiral cutterhead is well worth it in my opinion. One problem I have had occasionally is the dust chute will clog up with chips. The spiral cutterhead makes a lot more small chips than a knife cutterhead. My old dust collector just couldn't keep up and occasionally it would clog. It was easy to clear, I'd just stick my air hose through the side of the cutterhead and aim it towards the dust chute and blow (with the dust collector running). I upgraded to a more powerful cyclone a few months ago and haven't had the problem since, but I haven't used the jointer that much either. I don't know if the dust chute is better or different on the Powermatic, but again for 1/2 the price I've been very pleased.

[Reed Gray]

For that joiner, depending on motor and condition, $800 could be a fair deal. Heavy iron, made in the USA. You can replace the cutter head.

robo hippy

[John Sanford]

Go with your heart.

[John G Pierce]

Scott, I don't mean to be flippant, but nobody on this forum can tell you if this jointer is worth $800 without doing a full inspection. I have rebuilt two older jointers in the last year, though not a PM60. I know a lot more now about what to look at, although I don't claim to be an expert. As others have suggested, if this jointer really is in excellent shape, it could well be worth $800. We would all like a better bargain, and sometimes we get lucky, but that was a quality machine when it was new, and such heavy iron and quality machining is expensive. Forgive me if you know all this, but the things I would look at when considering the machine:

1. The really important part is the flatness of each table separately. At lot else can be fixed, but not a bad table. Take with you a precision machinist square or short precision straight edge, and a long precision straight edge. (Don’t try to use a framing square, or anything that you can buy at a big box store.) Since most of us don't have a long precision straight edge, and they are very expensive, consider acquiring a 6-foot length of extruded aluminum, such as Faztek 15QE1530. These are straight within a few thousandths in my experience. You will need something like it later to properly shim the tables of any long-bed jointer. Check each table by itself. Use the square and feeler gauges to check flatness across the short dimension of each table. Use the long straight edge to check flatness of each table, again with feeler gauges, along its length. A warped, groove-worn, or twisted table is the worst problem, and would make me pass on the machine. Flat within .010" might be acceptable, and is comparable to new JET equipment standards, as best as have been able to find. Flat within .006 inches is good. Flat within .003 inches is terrific. Whatever you find, if you are still interested, you can use findings as a tangible basis to negotiate the price, or pass on the machine.
2. Check that the tables adjust smoothly up and down. If rough, look closely. That can probably be corrected, but it is another basis to negotiate the price. You eventually need to know how to adjust the gibs and shim the tables, so it might be good to download a manual, and familiarize yourself ahead of time, or ask the seller to show you. It can be a time-consuming process to get the tables parallel to a degree that is close to perfection, especially if there is any table-twist at all to cope with.
3. Next check the parallel-ness (co-planar, some people call it) of the tables by laying the long straight edge across both tables, and check for gaps with the feeler gauges. To accomplish this you have to either remove the knives, or raise both tables above the knives. Perfect condition would be no gap anywhere along the length of any part of either table. You will probably find that the far end, or a far corner, of one or both of the tables will have some sag. It can take a little fussing to decide when both tables are at the same height if they are NOT parallel in both directions. Go by the edge of the tables next to the cutter head. I would expect that unless the seller is sharp, and has recently shimmed the tables to parallel, there will be some sag on one or both tables. As long both tables are flat, you can usually bring them into parallel with shim stock once you have the jointer in your shop. If the seller is not sharp, you can point out the sagging end or corner with deep concern to negotiate a better price. If one table is twisted, there will be no way to shim them to parallel. If there is only a few thousandths twist – then you decide.
4. If you are still interested at this point, remove the drive belt and spin the motor shaft by hand. Does it turn silently and smoothly? Grab hold of the motor shaft and try to move it up or down, or in or out. If all is tight and silent, the motor bearings and shaft are good. Now run the motor without the belt installed and be sure all is smooth and quiet. If there is any roughness or play in motor shaft, you can pass on it, or use that as a point to negotiate a lower price.
5. Still, with the drive belt off, spin the cutter head by hand. Check for shaft movement as you did with the motor shaft. Does the cutter head turn silently and smoothly, without can rough spots? If any roughness, you have the same option to negotiate a lower price. Cutter head bearings are not expensive, and are usually easy to replace, unless corrosion has things frozen up.
6. Look it over carefully for cracked or chipped castings. Some cracks will be deal killers. Some might be OKAY to live with, but serve as the basis for negotiating a better price.
7. Carefully inspect the rest of the bits and pieces for problems.
8. If you are still interested, ask the seller to put the drive belt back on and run the machine. Joint a board, all the while observing for any unacceptable vibration.

That inspection is a bit of work, but it is the only way you can really know the condition of what the seller has. If all is perfect, as it would be if it really is “like new”, it would be worth $800. If you don’t want to make such a detailed inspection, you can either take a chance on the seller’s word for it, or it might be better to pay a lot more and buy a comparable new machine with a warranty. Personally, I really like messing with old American iron like this, but replacement parts can be hard tofind (expensive), so it is best to inspect carefully and thoroughly to have an informed basis for your decision. Maybe others can suggest some points I have forgotten.

[Steven Satur]

That is a better jointer then one you are going to buy today new. I buddy of mine paid that amount for the same jointer last year. I turned it up and it runs like a champ, he loves it.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Scott, I don't mean to be flippant, but nobody on this forum can tell you if this jointer is worth $800 without doing a full inspection. I have rebuilt two older jointers in the last year, though not a PM60. I know a lot more now about what to look at, although I don't claim to be an expert.

John:

1. I don't think any of the replies were intended to be definitive absent an inspection. Not quite sure how you read that into them.

2. It is entirely reasonable to believe that the $800 could be a fair deal, assuming the machine is in good shape.

3. I have found that the market value for a particular item is very much driven by locale, and timing.

> Some things are more readily available in certain parts of the country, andnot so much in others.

> Timing is everything - I am in a big market area - Atlanta - and was looking without success for a gizmo which should have been about $250 in good shape. Looked twice a day, every day, for 3 months. Kind of threw up my hands......took 4 days off, and restarted only to find that precise item had sold day-before-yesterday, for $150.

> I could afford patience in acquisiton that time - other times, paience is not an option.

> Each of these factors impact the price you are willing to pay/must be willing to pay.

4. Extremely detailed analysis of a solid inspection protocol. Very nice. Of course, if someone is focused on scoring 10/10 on every item, I think they are probably not correct in searching the used market.

5. Do you think you might make some adjustments to the font/size you used in your first post here? Tone it down a little, as it were. Make it a little eaiser on the eyes next time, and make it consistent with the other posts here.

Thanks for your input - glad to have your insight available.

Kent

[David Kumm]

If condition is good and tables are flat and co planar I would pay 800 for the old PM long before anything close on a new jointer. Old Meehanite rated cast iron that age will never move anymore and is likely a finer grain and milled to tighter tolerances than new stuff unless priced way higher. Again, condition is important but jointers are the best value in old machinery as they are pretty much dependent on the quality of cast iron and grind. Dave

[John G Pierce]

If condition is good and tables are flat and co planar I would pay 800 for the old PM long before anything close on a new jointer. Dave

I agree. I don't think it would need to be "like new" to be worth $800.