Stanley 10 1/2

[Andy J Smith]

Picked up this beauty - just had to have it because I think they are the neatest looking planes. Honestly don't need it as I've read they are most helpful in cutting wide rabbets and I don't see myself doing that often. Figuring on tuning it up, trying it out, and passing it on as thats how we learn.

[Tom M King]

Looks like it's in really great shape. Don't drop it.

[Jim Koepke]

Looks like a good one. Mine doesn't get a lot of use, but it does get used when it is the one for the job.

Mine is mostly used for adjusting a rabbet made with another plane.

jtk

[Andy J Smith]

Looks like a good one. Mine doesn't get a lot of use, but it does get used when it is the one for the job.

Mine is mostly used for adjusting a rabbet made with another plane.

jtk

Thanks Jim, have you used it across grain or just with the grain? I'd worry without any sort of knicker it might be hard to manage across grain.

I bet I'd use a block rabbet more, but it was in good shape and the price was right. Japanning is close to 100%, good blade length, a little pitting on the sole but otherwise very clean. I don't normally buy tools that are this nice.

[Harold Burrell]

Wow! Nice plane!

Do me a favor...when you get to the "pass it on" stage, keep me in mind.

[Chris Hachet]

Nice looking plane...

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks Jim, have you used it across grain or just with the grain? I'd worry without any sort of knicker it might be hard to manage across grain.

Mine has been used for both. The trick for cross grain is to use a marking knife to cut the edge of the rabbet first. If there will be an intersecting rabbet with the grain, as in a panel for a frame, cut the cross grain rabbets first.

One of my pin gauges is set up with more of a knife grind on the pin for starting and to a shallow depth:

Knife Gauge.jpg

Then as the cut gets deeper a chisel is great for scoring the line:

Chiselling Line.jpg

The chisel is held against the wall and tilted so the trailing corner is doing the work.

This chisel handle has a ring on it, like many of my chisels:

Grip Ring.jpg

This allows me to grip it better since my thumb has some problems.

For work with the grain a batten can be used to get started. Once there is an edge, the plane can be guided against that. As with any rabbet plane getting the blades edge set well is the key to getting a good job.

jtk

[bridger berdel]

I use my #10 mostly for smoothing saw marks from plowed door jambs.

[Brian Ashton]

I like my 10. I find it's one of my favourites, much better than my veritas 10. I think I got lucky in that I put a new HSS blade in it and it was if they were meant to be. It has the sweetest sound, never chatters, when planing and produces the best surface, never tears out. If it were with me here in the UK it would be my go to plane.

[Andy J Smith]

Jim, thank you so much. That is an excellent tutorial and I really appreciate it.