Sharpening a miter box saw

[Michael Ray Smith]

I've been putting this off, but my miter box saw is so dull I can't wait any longer. What rake and clean do you use for miter saws?

[Tom M King]

I never sharpened mine with anything but the fairly standard 15, and 20 to 25. I'd try it after sharpening, without adding any more set, to see how it cuts. Since the saw is guided, set is not quite as important as it is for a regular handheld saw. I have some handsaws that a bit unusual geometry works great for, but they are only for cutting one wood-such as Cypress siding at a square crosscut. A miter saw needs to be decent for anything you want to put in it.

I've never played with different geometry on a miter box though, so there might be something better. Just being sharp will make a big difference though. I have a Langdon-Acme that I bought new, and used for a little over 20 years before anyone made a power miter saw that I liked.

[Ron Bontz]

Hi Mike.
I am guessing this is an 11ppi miter saw. I have several I have filed differently. But my all around preference is simply 15* rake and 25* fleam. Nothing fancy. 30* fleam leaves a nice finish. But will obviously dull a little quicker with hard woods. Best wishes.

[Michael Ray Smith]

Hi Mike.
I am guessing this is an 11ppi miter saw.

Good guess. That's exactly what it is. Thanks for the suggestion.

[Jim Matthews]

Don't forget to joint it, first.

Most miterbox saws wear heavy in the middle,
not so much at the ends. If you don't joint it,
you'll "bottom out" on the guide before
cutting through the stock.

[lowell holmes]

I have a miter box saw, but no miter box. I thought about cutting it down to make a backsaw out of it, but when it came, I realized it is much too heavy to do that.

Does anyone have an idea what I might do with it?

[Jonathan Martell]

I have a miter box saw, but no miter box. I thought about cutting it down to make a backsaw out of it, but when it came, I realized it is much too heavy to do that.

Does anyone have an idea what I might do with it?

You could always make a mitre box for it. A few pieces of 1x6 and some plywood would get you a decent box. Just mark out the angles and make some cuts. At least if you can cut straight with a hand saw, something I'm still trying to improve on.

[Mike Holbrook]

Michael,
Ron Bontz made me a miter saw for a Stanely #150 miter box recently. He suggested "Filed 15* rake, 20* fleam". I am pleased with how it works:

Sm Bontz:Stanley Miter Saw.jpg

I have a big Langdon 74C but I plan to put it on a permanent stationary table. It is too big to move around. I work at two different areas on the same property, home and business/dog kennel. The larger box will go in the small workshop for the business and get used on conventional dimensioned lumber. The Stanley #150 will serve on a bench hook at my home shop for cabinet, furniture, chairs. I will need to sharpen the 26" saw on the 74C before long. I understand it is a little tedious. I have read some accounts that suggest not working much on the teeth that do not get used, other than to rough them out and keep them level.

I am still trying to get the Stanley #150 set up like I want it. The clamping system for the saw is small which allows me to: use much more of the blade, a smaller saw, a smaller box. The clamp is metal and a little tricky to adjust though. I just got some of the material Lee Valley uses on their sawing jigs to line the metal jaws with. I am hoping that will be the answer. The Bontz saw is "only" 20" so I may use it out of the box on occasions, large tenons maybe. Got to love a good mitre saw. I think my Langdon box is more accurate than my old electric chop saw, now if I can just get the #150 working as accurately...

[lowell holmes]

I have an old wooden miter box from the lumber yard. It was made to use with crosscut saws, not back saws. I use bench hooks with my back saws that are essentially one. The miter box saw is a monster compared to my LN carcass saws. I have a perfectly good saw that I have no real use for. If anyone wants it, I'll post in the classified section.

[Roger Rettenmeier]

I had the same question a while back. Here is an older thread: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...saw&highlight= Looks like a copy and paste

[Michael Ray Smith]

My box is a Stanley 150 with no markings. I assume Stanley made it to be sold by someone else, but other than the markings it's identical to the Stanley 150. Yes, it's tricky to adjust so that the blade is vertical and the angle is correct, but once you get it right you shouldn't have to mess with it again.

[Mike Holbrook]

Same box then Mike. I have not been eager to tighten the clamps tight for fear of scratching up the nice Bontz saw plate, even with them buffed and waxed.

I hope the LV plastic tape will protect the saw blade and also reduce the play.