Maybe you need to do a little more research..............Originally Posted by Ole Anderson
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Maybe you need to do a little more research..............
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Understatement. Explosions. What explosions?
Last edited by Art Mann; 01-09-2015 at 2:06 PM.
You were serious? If so please enlighten me. (Ok, where is my eating popcorn smiley face?)
NOW you tell me...
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Being ignorant is not so much a shame, as being unwilling to learn.”
― Benjamin Franklin
Excuse me?
NOW you tell me...
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Alan,
The house we bought last year had a 20x24 building in the back yard. Basically a 2 car garage on concrete pillars with a wood floor. The previous owner had it built to use as a large garden shed for his lawn tractor, etc. I wanted to keep the open feeling of the space and didn't want to close in the ceiling. I did some research on hot roofs (that's a specific term) and found that if I sealed off all openings so there was no air movement at all I could insulate the rafters, close them in with drywall and keep the open feel without causing any problems with the roof or shingles.
I hung the fluorescent lights from the ceiling joists and the mounted the heater and air conditioner above the joists so they didn't intrude on workable shop space. And I put a pair of ceiling fans in the upper space to keep the heat circulating in the winter and to provide breeze in the summer.
It's working well so far. I have space above the joists for storage, keep the open feel of the space and can maneuver 9 or 10 foot boards between the ceiling joists when I need to.
Cliff
Last edited by Cliff Polubinsky; 01-11-2015 at 5:49 PM.
The problem with the world is that intelligent people are full of doubts, while the stupid ones are full of confidence.
Charles Bukowski
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I insulated at the under side of the roof (with baffles) and put in Acoustical ceiling grid on top of the bottom cord of the rafters and put recessed fixtures in the ceiling grid.
The bottom of the rafters protect the lighting fixtures from getting hit when flipping a long board around or a sheet of plywood.
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Rob, that is an interesting way of installing a ceiling. Are those 4 bulb troffer light fixtures?
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Yes 4 lamp T-8. Two rows of 9 fixtures. I was going to hang the SACP from below the structure but did not want to lose the 10' clear space. I had a 4' piece of ceiling grid that I was holding up to figure out what height to mount the grid below the ceiling and rather than bringing it down, I just laid it across the bottom of the rafters while I went to measure the light fixture height.
When I came back to the ladder and looked up and saw the grid sitting above, it hit me, if the fixtures could fit between the rafters and have the lense door still open, why not.
It is a tight fit, but the lense doors just barely open.
If the 2x4 fixtures had not worked, I would have just exchanged them for 1x4 fixtures. They are also wired to six switches. One motion switch at the main entry door that turns on the one light by the door. The second switch controls five more fixtures to give me a pattern of six fixtures (two on each end and two in the center) that gives good general overall lighting. Then there are four banks of three fixtures in each quadrant that can be turned on if I am working in a particular corner of the shop.
Last edited by Rob Damon; 01-12-2015 at 10:39 AM.
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To get an explosion you need to have an environment in which you cannot see or breath. A bit of visable dust in a shop will not cause an explosion maybe a fire if you put a match to it - but explosion - no way. Urban legends are just that.
I thought that was so well known that it didn't need reiterating. Hopefully some are willing to do a little more research on the issue.
NOW you tell me...
Contributor
You are correct that the concentration of flammable dust particles needs to be a a specific level with conditions that are conducive to an explosion. But you are wrong that it can not happen, dead wrong.
Google "Secondary dust explosions"
Not everyone on this board is a homeowner playing in a garage. I will stick by my quote.
Member
Your arguments are much more likely to convince people if you don't insult them.
If you're not trying to convince people, then why do you argue?
OK, in partial support of Larry's apparent position regarding the dangers of wood dust, here is an article that is interesting: http://www.woodshopnews.com/news/fea...s-of-wood-dust
I glean from this:
-yes, wood dust can explode (I think we all knew that)
-wood dust explosions tend to happen in factory type settings
-wood dust must be of a flour like consistency and heavily suspended in the air in order to explode
-how much wood dust on a surface is too much? 1/8" by fire regulations, so much that your green machine is no longer green by others, by others enough so you can write on the surface with your finger (may be a bit conservative IMO)
-plastic duct work is not recommended as it is one possible source of ignition if a large amount of fine wood dust should suddenly become suspended
If anyone could document a wood dust explosion is a home or small wood shop environment, please post the references here so we can start to worry. At this point, I consider it a non-issue.
Last edited by Ole Anderson; 01-14-2015 at 1:47 PM.
NOW you tell me...
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The only dust explosions I have heard of happened in grain elevators. When our coop did an expansion, they installed a cyclone on the leg, that is the name of the conveyor system that elevates the grain, which sucks the dust out of the leg. The shop I worked in had so much dust laying around, we would have to blow out the overhead gas heaters. Often it was a half inch thick in the heaters in the fall when we cleaned up getting ready to turn the heaters on. They have a dust system, but the company who built it never heard of Bill Pentz.
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