Bailey #8 opportunity

[Jerry Olexa]

You guys helped me through the process recently of cleaning, appraising, etc. two Bailey #5's type 11...I suppose I now have acquired the bug to continue...I now have a new opportunity to purchase locally a Bailey #8 . Needs usual clean up, rust removal etc.. Seller tells me via EMail that pat. date on the blade says 1892 and on the sole the pat. date is AUG. 19-1902. You have taught me a lot but not enough to make an intelligent decision on this....To me, this is a longer jointer plane..I have not seen the actual plane yet..Should I proceed? Your counsel means much to me.. Thanks in advance again,

[Jim Koepke]

This sounds like a type 9.

The determining factor is the price and do you plan to fix this up for your own use or do you plan to resell this when you are finished.

I bought a #8 for $5 that has become my most expensive $5 plane. It had a broken frog, a replacement was about $35. It has a few other problems, but one of these days I will get around to fixing it up.

There are easy ways I use to date a Stanley/Bailey plane.

There are the pre-lateral versions, type 1-4.
Type 5 has a lateral adjuster that has the blade engagement piece as a turned up end of the lever.
Type 6 was the first with a disk to engage the slot in the blade. Type 6 was also the last one to have a right hand thread on the blade depth adjustment. Also the last type to have patent dates stamped inside the brass adjuster.
There is a type 6a that kind of fell through the cracks in the early type studies. Types 7 & 8 main feature is the foundry identification marks of S or B visible on the cast parts.
Type 9 had a major change to the base and the frog. There are differences between some early type 9 and late type 9 planes.
Type 10 is the first with a frog adjustment feature but still has only the 1902 patent dates.
Type 11 includes the 1910 patent date. Some of the late type 11s came stock with a tall knob.
Type 12 This is the start of the SW era at Stanley. There was Stanley Rule & Level and Stanley Works. They merged in 1920. The main feature difference on this type is the larger depth adjuster.
Type 13 only has the 1910 patent date behind the frog.
Type 14 has a raised ring around the base of the knob.

This is where I usually lose my interest as my preference is for a short knob. The ring makes it difficult to install a short knob.

I also do not like the change to the ogee style frog introduced with the type 16. They have given me more problems than benefits.

Here is a link to a type study I use all the time:

https://home.comcast.net/~rarebear/p...ing/typing.htm

Here is one a lot of other folks like:

http://primeshop.com/access/woodwork...e/pftsynch.htm

This one is handy to look up a particular feature.

I also have the text of an old type study that is the basis for the one listed first above. If you PM me your eddress, I can send you a copy.

jtk

[Will Boulware]

If you've never used a #8 before, either buy it and accept the fact that you'll love it more than the rest of your planes, or stick your head in the sand and convince yourself that you'll never need "something that big." I use mine for much more than just jointer plane work. Great for smoothing, passable as a jack plane on big panels, etc. They're incredible tools. The size is more of an advantage than you'd think. If this one is workable and the price suits you, get it!

[Matt Evans]

I'd buy a number 8 in a heartbeat. My number 7 is great, but I often could use a larger plane.

I typically don't worry about types unless I need a part. I have planes from most types/eras, and in use they seem to operate more or less the same, so long as they are fettled and sharp.

So, as long as its a price you are comfortable with, I'd say buy it.

[Joe A Faulkner]

I picked an older Stanley #8 that was in "usable" condition at an Antique Mall in Southern Indiana for $75. The tote and knob are in reasonably good repair. Usual chipped horn you see on a lot of the older jointers. I didn't feel compelled to remove the rust patina on the sides, but did lap the sole, tuned up the frog and honed the blade. I think I paid a fair price given the condition of the plane. Hope this helps.

[Stew Denton]

Hi Jerry,

Jim's summary of how to quickly determine the type is the best short summary I have seen, and I am assuming that he is correct on the type determination. One thing to note from his summary is that the type 9 does not have the frog adjustment set up, so if having that on a plane is a high priority with you then you will need to take that into account.

Jim, for what it's worth, I think I go to the same net sources you do for determining the types.


Stew

[steven c newman]

If you do get the #8, one has to pose with it
SDC15192.jpg
A #8c type 9

[don wilwol]

http://www.timetestedtools.com/typin...ch-planes.html

Here is my site to help date it. To me it depends more about price and condition than date of manufacture. Anything up to type 20 can be a decent user, although anything past 16 or 17 may need a little extra tuning.

[Jerry Olexa]

Thanks guys..Planning to see the #8 plane either today or Saturday..Will let you know...Thanks for your help...Stay tuned.

[Jim Koepke]

I also have the text of an old type study that is the basis for the one listed first above. If you PM me your eddress, I can send you a copy.

Oops, an old friend of mine always uses eddress as a contraction of email address and a play on the word address. I picked up the habit from him.

If anyone is interested in the text, PM your email address to me.

Sorry for any misunderstanding.

jtk