Glue Line Rip Blades

[Myk Rian]

For my Radio Alarm Saw I use a Freud LU91m0xx series blade. -5º rake to prevent it from climbing.
I've never had a Freud blade wobble, and that's the only brand I buy.

[glenn bradley]

I'll echo Jim's comments. I can imagine failed coatings and poor results to be more a factor of machine setup and operator technique than a poor blade. The Diablo's are what they are and should not be confused with Freud's higher end products. My opinion may be biased as I never had any problems with my Freud blades. Or maybe I never had any problems with my Freud blades due to proper machine setup and stock control.

I could definitely go to glue-up from the edges left by my Freud 24 tooth thin kerf rip blade. The 30 tooth TK gave similar performance on my saw so I really didn't prefer one or the other. I now run full kerf 30 tooth Carbide Processors blades for ripping and really pretty much any cut is glue ready if I control the stock. That is; if I am not just ripping things down quickly without expecting a perfect edge. When I am after perfect results, I use Grr-Rippers for shorter pieces and featherboards and push blocks for longer stock. I use a consistent rate of feed and keep firm control of the material throughout the cut.

As stated, any new blade will give you that "wow" factor. My Carbide Processor 30 tooth has been run for a year or so and still gives an edge that can go straight to glue-up. The only sign that it may be time for a trip to the sharpeners is a bit more feedback while feeding the stock. There are a few top quality blade makers that offer blades that, once you factor in how many sharpenings you can get out of them, make good financial sense. The customer service at CP is top notch and Tom Waltz is a member here.

[Peter Quinn]

I am of the mind that "most" sharp blades are capable of giving you a so-called "glue line rip" cut relative to the quality of the actual cut surface. Obviously, some blade and tooth designs will provide a smoother cut surface , but "sharp" is pretty important.

Just to add a little to the discussion, the real challenge relative to "glue line rips" is material handling. It's extremely difficult for a human to move the material through the cut without minor deviations on a traditional cabinet or contractor's style saw. The machine itself must be in excellent blade/fence alignment, use of a riving knife helps and sometimes it also means using mechanical aids to keep the board tight to the fence through the cut. So if you have a "glue line rip" blade and are not getting good, straight surfaces you are comfortable going right to assembly of a panel, check your saw's alignment and your cutting technique if the blade is, in fact, sharp.

This is one operation where sliders have an edge because the board can be clamped down to the wagon (the sliding part) so it doesn't move a proverbial hair laterally through the entire cut. Of course, narrow rips still most often require use of the fence, so the same techniques to keep the cut motion steady are necessary for a perfectly straight rip cut.

With a feeder on a standard cabinet saw I feel the slider/carriage rip had little advantage and perhaps a slight disadvantage relative to cut quality. Few in the home shop seem to have them, every pro shop I've been in makes extensive use of stock feeders on the cabinet saw. Particularly useful on beveled rips.

[Joe Spear]

For rips of 3/4" or 1" wood I get glue-up quality cuts with my Forrest WW II 40-tooth blade, pushing by hand.

[Stew Hagerty]

I've exclusively used Freud for years. I do use their Thin Kerf blades (except for my Chop Saw) since I have an 80's vintage Craftsman saw. I keep their 50T Combo blade installed most of the time. But if I am doing a lot of ripping, or cutting plywood, or if I am doing some precision cutting of smaller parts I switch to one of their specialty blades. I've yet to have any issue with them.

[Harold Burrell]

My Carbide Processor 30 tooth has been run for a year or so and still gives an edge that can go straight to glue-up. The only sign that it may be time for a trip to the sharpeners is a bit more feedback while feeding the stock. There are a few top quality blade makers that offer blades that, once you factor in how many sharpenings you can get out of them, make good financial sense. The customer service at CP is top notch and Tom Waltz is a member here.

+1!

I own this: http://www.carbideprocessors.com/wor...ip-saw-blades/ and it is SWE-E-E-E-ET!!!!!!!

[Raymond Fries]

I have the Freud 30 TPI glue line rip and have been very happy with the results. I have all Freud blades except for one Forrest blade. Freus is a good brand. I do not think you can go wrong with any of the premium blades.

[jack duren]

Freud is ok, but if I want long productive life I use Amana. Last twice as long as freud between sharpening.

[Jim Becker]

With a feeder on a standard cabinet saw I feel the slider/carriage rip had little advantage and perhaps a slight disadvantage relative to cut quality. Few in the home shop seem to have them, every pro shop I've been in makes extensive use of stock feeders on the cabinet saw. Particularly useful on beveled rips.

You are beautifully supporting my point... The Feeder provides controlled material handling. But as you state, few home shop users have them; which is similar to the fact that few home shop users have sliders, too. As Bruce pointed out, feather boards/Board Buddies, etc., really can help when the rip is critical.

[Mike Cozad]

Great information to help me in my search. I had forgotten about Carbide Processors. That is certainly an option. I also mistakenly assumed the red coating meant it was a Diablo blade. As I resumed researching tonight it was obvious I was missed the mark on that one and makes sifting through the reviews much easier.

Very little feedback here on the CMT blades. Curious if that's just due to few folks actually buying them.

Thanks for the great info. Definitely helped me become better educated.

Mike

[Chris Padilla]

50% blade sharpness/quality; 50% table saw alignment; 50% operator.

[Clay Fails]

Sounds like most everyone goes to glue-up right off the saw blade. I almost always run a jointer plane along the edges prior to glue-up. I usually also spring the joint slightly. This approach has worked well for me. Maybe I will experiment with gluing off the saw blade and see if I notice any differences. That would certainly save some time.

[Stew Hagerty]

Sounds like most everyone goes to glue-up right off the saw blade. I almost always run a jointer plane along the edges prior to glue-up. I usually also spring the joint slightly. This approach has worked well for me. Maybe I will experiment with gluing off the saw blade and see if I notice any differences. That would certainly save some time.

I'm with you Clay. I typically take a swipe or two with my trusty #8. I have tried springing, but rarely do it.

[Jim Andrew]

Some time back my local Menards was closing out their Bosch rip blades. I bought one and tried it, found it to be pretty good, so next time I was there I bought the rest. Didn't realize they own Freud.

[Viking Mountain Tool Works]

I have had fantastic results with my WWII Blade that I purchased ten tears ago. I was amazed at how clean the cross cuts were. Are they still as high a quality blade as the used to be?