Thoughts on newspaper between glue block and work piece ...

[Tim Boger]

I typically use a 2-3 inch faceplace with a 2" thick, matching diameter piece of maple screwed to it, I then glue this to the under side of the piece of wood that I'll be gluing my segmented rings to ..... I've seen other segmented turners that use a piece of newspaper between the glue block and their work piece to facilitate the eventual removal.

Opinions?

Tim

[John Keeton]

I don't segment, but there is no way I would use newspaper between a waste block and my turning. I use glued waste blocks all the time in a chuck, and I always reverse the turning against a jam piece to finish and detail the bottom, so being able to easily remove the glue block isn't a concern.

[Scott Hackler]

The only time I ever have or would use newspaper in the glue joint, is when I want to "pop" it apart easily later. Projects like the "lost wood process" and some inside out turnings. The joint isn't a real strong bond and with a heavy or long piece over the ways, there is a lot of stress on the glue block joint. ALL other waste blocks are glued straight to the blank with Tightbond2 and turned off after wards. (although sometimes I will part the waste block off first so there isn't so much wood to remove when it is reversed on the lathe.

[Robert Henrickson]

I recently used paper and glue (Titebond) joints for some small-scale lost wood turning. I was surprised by how firmly the joint held together when I got around to separating the pieces. I haven't used paper/glue joints for anything else.

[Dennis Ford]

I don't believe in "never" and have used a paper joint before. It is not nearly as strong as wood to wood (that is the point of putting the paper in). I would consider a paper joint acceptable when the project diameter is no more than twice the diameter of the glue block AND the project is only 2 or 3 inches thick. These estimates are based on my experience and comfort level; they are NOT a warranty of your success.

[Scott Ticknor]

I have used it for split turnings ( decorative columns ) on furniture, trophys etc . If i may offer a tip, I use a live center that has a center and beveled ring (Oneway brand) I make a small dimple in the end of the split spindle so the live center does not act as a wedge. the beveled ring helps to keep the turning together. Paper and glue is an old method that we used in shop class as a teen 45 yrs ago. it works but has fallen out of favor.
I remember in 1982 when I got my first Nova scroll chuck, it was said that this would make faceplates and glue blocks obsolete...didn`t really happen.

[Tim Boger]

Thanks for the feedback guys, seems that the general consensus is apprehensive at best .... I agree.

Tim

[robert baccus]

Paper in a joint used with white glues was very popular 25-30 years ago. Like Ford and others have related they were very inconsistent except that they usually failed. Thick CA just about replaced it's use with most turners after that. Especially on green wood where it holds great in 5-10 minutes.

[Steve Mellott]

I only use glue/paper when I am planning to save both sides of the joint. Even then, I usually wrap packing tape around the unturned ends of the project to provide even more stability. For a segmented project, you've already invested a lot of time in cutting and gluing up pieces. I think a straight glue line (without the paper) is the proper technique for this type of work.

[John Keeton]

I only use glue/paper when I am planning to save both sides of the joint. Even then, I usually wrap packing tape around the unturned ends of the project to provide even more stability. For a segmented project, you've already invested a lot of time in cutting and gluing up pieces. I think a straight glue line (without the paper) is the proper technique for this type of work.

Not to mention the safety aspects. Prudence would seem to dictate that one minimize risk as much as possible, and while it may work some of the time, the one time it fails and throws that turning in your face seems to be enough to discourage the idea.

[William Bachtel]

I use Tite bond, yellow glue, and for the paper I use cardboard (a cereal box does just fine, and comes apart when I want it to).

[Peter Fabricius]

Some turners use paper between glue blocks and the turning BUT, why is this necessary if you are going to part the Bowl or whatever from the glue block anyway???
I would not do it. I use yellow original Titebond or sometimes Titebond III, any glue will do if you allow it to cure overnight.
The last few bowls I have turned have been turned between centres, using a SAFE Driver from Oneway, and then glued to a Beall Tapped glue block to save as much wood as possible. When the bowl is turned sanded and finished, I part it off and reverse turn the bottom on a Vacuum Chuck but this can just as easily be done on a jam chuck.

The big advantage of the glue block is that I can have a number of works in progress without changing chucks. Applying Minwax Tung Oil takes a few days to apply four coats with 0000 steel wool between coats. Saving nice wood is also a factor.
No paper and especially no cardboard for me!

First pic is a Spalting Birch bowl with a wide rim on a glue block. The second is a glue block being made, turning and Tapping the back of the block.

Peter F.

[Tim Boger]

e

Some turners use paper between glue blocks and the turning BUT, why is this necessary if you are going to part the Bowl or whatever from the glue block anyway???
I would not do it. I use yellow original Titebond or sometimes Titebond III, any glue will do if you allow it to cure overnight.
The last few bowls I have turned have been turned between centres, using a SAFE Driver from Oneway, and then glued to a Beall Tapped glue block to save as much wood as possible. When the bowl is turned sanded and finished, I part it off and reverse turn the bottom on a Vacuum Chuck but this can just as easily be done on a jam chuck.

The big advantage of the glue block is that I can have a number of works in progress without changing chucks. Applying Minwax Tung Oil takes a few days to apply four coats with 0000 steel wool between coats. Saving nice wood is also a factor.
No paper and especially no cardboard for me!

First pic is a Spalting Birch bowl with a wide rim on a glue block. The second is a glue block being made, turning and Tapping the back of the block.

Peter F.

Hi Peter,

Thanks for the great feedback, I appreciate the advice.

That's a nice looking system you have for the Beall Threading tool. I actually received mine today and will give a shot at making my own faceplate / glue block next weekend when I get back into my shop.

Thanks again,
Tim

[Peter Fabricius]

Nice to hear, Tim.
My Beall tap handle contains a 3/8" thick chunk of Aluminum that I drilled and filed a square hole with a set screw to hold the tap. Sandwiched the aluminum in mortises cut into the two pieces of Cherry, lots of Titebond III. Then turned the handles spindle orientation to the shape you see here.
Remember glue blocks are sacrificial and will be parted off a little each time you cut a bowl off. If you really want to keep the glue block just glue on another piece of wood on the end and continue to use it.
Peter F.

[Joe O'Leary]

Peter, do you mean that the handle is a split turning? Otherwise, why two pieces of cherry?
Thanks