Hauling new table in the cold?

[Larry Edgerton]

I have a Makore table in the shop I just finished and I am wondering if there is any adverse effects from hauling it in the cold. I sold my van and only have an open truck. I used TitebondIII, a first for me as I usually use West System. I was trying to save money, a decision I regret.

I did this job for an architects personal house and I am losing my fanny on this job hoping to pick up some work through her or I would just rent a van.

$100 to rent a van or take a chance?

[peter gagliardi]

Wrap it in a couple of old blankets and call it a day?

[George Bokros]

Cover it with a soft blanket and a plastic drop cloth, wrap with some ratchet straps to keep the sides closed and strap down with some ratchet tie downs to keep it from moving around and IMHO should be fine. As mater of fact that what I plan to do with a TV corner console we purchased. All I have is my Ranger PU. They want $65 for delivery five miles from the store.

Purchased instead of building my own because I do not time now, too many other projects in progress.

[Ethan Melad]

I don't see the cold harming the piece, but if you're looking to get more business from an architect you may want to look as professional as possible; renting a van to keep the table well protected (as well as blanket wrapping it well) probably wouldn't hurt.

[Randy Red Bemont]

I would just wrap in blankets and deliver. It's the table your client wants to see not how it got from A to B.

Red

[pat warner]

I Put a couple of very big eye screws under and back of the rails.
That way I could hook/tie the thing so it would not move, my greatest fear.
Then I worried I'd get stuck in traffic and boil the heck out of it.
It only takes a few minutes in noon sun to bake the surface and spoil its ECM for ever more.
Was the delivery successful? No. Out of no where clouds came and rained on the thing.
Cold a problem? Not in my view, unless there is an abrupt and prolonged change in humidty from whence it came.

[Bill Ryall]

I live in Maine... Do it all the time. Couple packing blankets on the bed, wrap the piece in packing blankets and cover with a tarp if necessary. Strap lightly but securely.

[Larry Edgerton]

Wind chill was -27 degrees here this morning, must have froze my brain. I thought about it and furniture trucks are never heated. Up until recently I had a heated box van so never had to worry about it before.



Opps Wrong picture, don't know how to make it go away. Thats my garden shed.



This is the table.........



Thanks, Larry.

[Keith Westfall]

Would really like to see some more pictures of that table if possible!! It's beautiful!

[Leo Graywacz]

I wouldn't worry about the wood of the table. I might worry about the finish on the table depending on what it is and how long it's been curing.

If it's a poly or an oil then I wouldn't worry to much. But if it is a catalyzed lacquer (post or pre cat) you would be smart to let it cure in a nice warm room for a few days before subjecting it to brutal cold temps. Catalyzed finishes don't like to be cold while curing. It can cause cold checking weeks or months down the road.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Looks great Larry, I agree with Keith, more pics! Nice shed too!

[Kevin Womer]

I agree, that table looks beautiful!

[Larry Edgerton]

I wouldn't worry about the wood of the table. I might worry about the finish on the table depending on what it is and how long it's been curing.

If it's a poly or an oil then I wouldn't worry to much. But if it is a catalyzed lacquer (post or pre cat) you would be smart to let it cure in a nice warm room for a few days before subjecting it to brutal cold temps. Catalyzed finishes don't like to be cold while curing. It can cause cold checking weeks or months down the road.

Thats what I was worried about. I usually use catalyzed lacquer but am not set up for it at the new place yet, so I used water based poly, had only cured for 2 days. As you can see my shop is small at the moment and needed it gone and the money in my account. I will make a mental note of the Cold/Lacquer thing, thanks Leo. As it was I put it, the top, between two sheets of Styrofoam and covered with a couple of packing blankets. The top is 2 1/2" thick so in 40 miles I don't think it cooled down much.

One thing I did not like is that the glue line on the top showed through 6 coats of finish. Not much, but they telegraphed through as you looked at the right angle. The glue was Titebond III, first time I used it for a top. It was clamped for 48 hours, then sat for two weeks before finish. I was out of West System and did not want to spend the money. Won't do that again.

They were happy, thats all that matters really.

Stretcher detail



She said she wanted a table that was tough, utilitarian yet elegant. Designing a table for an architect is like making shoes for a cobbler. I couldn't resist throwing in a tribute to Greene and Greene so the stretcher got a cloud lift.

Larry

[Kevin Jenness]

Larry, Titebond 3 is probably the least rigid glueline in the Titebond group, so perhaps not the best choice fo redge gluing a tabletop for interior use. Titebond 1 Extend is the most rigid of their offerings. Not to say that epoxy is not a good choice, but there are alternatives among pva's that may work better to minimize creep for this application.

[Leo Graywacz]

I use TBII nearly exclusively. You can have telegraphing problems if you are in a rush. Gluelines need to sit at least 3 days. My standard is glue it up for an hour. Sand it with my 1st round of paper and then go do something else for a few days. Then sand it again to the final grit. Finishing you can usually see the lines when you sand, they seem to be staticy. Just make sure you scuff hard to flatten things out good. 3 coats is better then two if you think you might have issues. Sand the second coat hard also.

TBI is best, never used TB1 extend so I don't know. I rarely use West System only because it's costly and a pain to use. But I use it when water problems might be involved, or an absolute strength without fastener, dowels or biscuits is required. Last time I used it on something other than boat related was on a bar rail molding. I mitered and glued the 45s with the WS. That stuff is amazingly rigid.