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Thread: Garage Shop Wall

  1. #16
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    Feb 2003
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    Seems like a good plan on your part, but I suggest you run 120 volt and 240 volt outlets before you cover the wall.
    ________
    Ron

    "Individual commitment to a group effort--that is what makes a team work, a company work, a society work, a civilization work."
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  2. #17
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    Dec 2004
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    I'd put drywall j-molding on the bottom of whatever sheathing you're going to use - serves as a barrier from the moisture in the concrete floors.

  3. #18
    Thousands of cinder block homes are built in Florida, using 1x2's (3/4" x 1-1/2") on 16" centers, and covered with sheetrock. The extra depth required by a receptacle box is chiseled out of the cinder block. Insulation is installed in the thin space between the firing strips, however, you don't need a lot of insulation for heat in Florida. This is all you would need to hang a wall, but in your case, you will want more insulation. Your original choice of 2x4's sounds like a good compromise. You could also use 2x2's, but you may find it easier to find quality 2x4's for similar cost.

  4. #19
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    Feb 2003
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    South Windsor, CT
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    Rey,

    Thinking about this a bit more, i'd say the decision about how you frame your walls comes down to how you want to run your electrical.

    If you want to do "normal" wiring - NM cable (aka "Romex") through holes in the studs into normal boxes nailed to the studs - I'd frame the walls with 2x4's in normal orientation to the wall. I wouldn't chisel out holes in the wall for electrical boxes.

    If you want do to surface mount wiring - PVC conduit, EMT or Wiremold and pull individual conductors - you could frame the wall with something that would give you a 2" depth and use 2" styrofoam insulation panels.

    The easiest, in my mind, is normal wiring. If you wanted to do a blend of the 2, I frame a normal wall and go with surface mount wiring for ease of making changes later.

    Hope these things get ya thinkin'

    Rob

  5. #20
    Lee beat me to it. I have a new shop in Terrell (at the house we just bought) and it's covered with OSB walls on the first floor (it's a two story shop). I'll be removing it one panel at a time til I get it all out. I'm not a fan of the stuff and use it for nothing.

    I know it's cheap, but like cheap tools, the cost comes in the second time you have to buy it. It always seems to degrade 5x faster than plywood or sheetrock. As much as I hate drywall (there's none in the 'new' house!!), I'd do that before OSB.

  6. #21
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    Kelly, why not just cover it with what you want, rather than remove? (Or does it need insulation?)
    --

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  7. #22
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    Apr 2005
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    Rey, I agree with Steve, I wouldn't "fur out" that wall unless there's no other way to insulate it. I currently have concrete walls painted with Drylock. I mounted horizontal cleats for mounting cabinets to or for hanging tools/jigs from. I like the result, but then it's insulated outside not inside. May I suggest that you look at steel studs or steel furring strips in place of wood. They're easy to work with and you don't have the concern of the wood/masonry contact.
    Feel the wind and set yourself a bolder course

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker
    Kelly, why not just cover it with what you want, rather than remove? (Or does it need insulation?)
    That would be easier Jim, but I am concerned with what happens a few years down the road. I'll be in that house for a long time to come. It's relatively new and I could wait til it rots then replace it, but I have to remove some of it for an addition I plan to build...another 10X12 (making the first floor 440 sq.ft.), so it makes sense to take it all out at once. It is insulated downstairs, but not upstairs.

  9. #24
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    Kelly you said, "I could wait til it rots then replace it". Where do you expect all the moisture to come from that will be necessary to rot the OSB? This is on the inside walls of your shop, right?
    Work safe, have fun, enjoy the sport.
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  10. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Stube
    Kelly you said, "I could wait til it rots then replace it". Where do you expect all the moisture to come from that will be necessary to rot the OSB? This is on the inside walls of your shop, right?
    Not to mention that 90% of new construction homes are sheathed with OSB! And that's on the exterior! Even on Million$ homes. Why do you think OSB will rot? I think there's an awful lot of resin or preservative in there, right? That or the humidity wreaks havoc on the glue and wood sugars and causes swelling or flaking? I doubt that it rots, but would be more to believe that the material fails due to moisture swelling/drying climate cycles... But if this were the case, it wouldn't be used as sheathing.

    In my locale, the vapor barier goes on the interior, with the bare OSB sheating covered by the siding, with no exterior vapor barrier because it is placed on the interior.
    Last edited by Scott Parks; 07-23-2005 at 2:03 PM.
    Go Big, or Go Home... He who has the gold, makes the rules

  11. #26
    Thanks for the many replies. There is a lot to chew on. There is much for me to consider for the wall.


    For now, I will get up a temporary solution with the 2x4 frame and pegboard, plywood or OSB. That way, I can get to some of my "real" projects.

    I will revist walling my garage after I have had more time to consider my electrical, heating and insulation needs.

    I will try to get before and after pictures to post. Thanks for the ideas and alternative approaches.
    Rey
    Never afraid to take a saw to a computer...

  12. #27
    Scott...it is very humid here in the summer months. The shop is not sealed and air conditioned (yet). I've torn enough OSB out to realize that here, it rots without direct contact with water.

    Each nail that goes through the OSB is a carrier of water. Sure it's supposedly sealed with Tyvek right? How do they get the Tyvek on? Staples....

    Once or twice I have removed hardwood floors when a bathroom has had water damage to the floor. The original subfloor is usually 1" boards in the older homes, but we find OSB a lot where people have repaired before. It's rotted away in less than three years in most cases.

    They are using OSB because it's cheaper than plywood...not because it's a better product. For the same reason I wouldn't want Melamine cabinets or pressboard veneered furniture, you can't GIVE me a new house...even a million dollar one. I know too much about how they build 'em.

    I guess you could call me a building materials snob. I can live with the title. Everytime I come across a thread about this stuff I speak up against the use of it.

  13. #28
    Well, got the wall framed out. I decided to go with a 2x4 frame. I had to build the frame in place due to the way that the garage door rails are situated.

    I have about 6 inches from the cinder block to the front face of the frame. I couldn't believe how uneven the original block wall turned out to be.

    I think that I am going to go with white pegboard for sheathing for now. I haven't insulated yet, but plan to at some point before it gets too cold out. Any idea if the peg-board sheathing would cause a loss of r-value?

    I also plan to have a cleat system that I can easily remove, as needed. Ie. whenever I proceed to electrical setup, etc.
    Never afraid to take a saw to a computer...

  14. #29
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    Feb 2003
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    When you insulate, you need a vapor barrier and that would be on the inside or just in back of whatever your wall sheathing will be. I'd think that using pegboard as a wall sheathing would leave the potential for poking holes in your vapor barrier with the pegs.

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