unisaw, I am going to look at Saturday

[cody michael]

I am going to look at a unisaw this Saturday. Is there anything to look at in particular? I will be cutting a test piece, and checking for runout? Owner says it runs good, 3hp, 220. Looks like a beismeyer fence. Price is 350!

[Cary Falk]

Pop the top and check for any cracked parts of the trunnion. The week part is where the trunnion attaches to the cabinet.

[cody michael]

Actually remove the top? How long does that take? Or just look.

I have a suburban, I am planning on taking a trailer and dolly, and wheeling it onto trailer, am I better off doing that or trying to fit it inside the suburban?

[cody michael]

From pictures can you tell if that is a beismeyer fence? Is that a good fence? Or very good/best?

[Bruce Page]

I wouldn't let anyone take the top off of my saw. Remove the blade and you can inspect the trunions through the opening with a hand mirror and flashlight.
Push/pull on the arbor to check for any side play in the bearings.

Yes, that is a beis.

[Mike Henderson]

Actually remove the top? How long does that take? Or just look.

I have a suburban, I am planning on taking a trailer and dolly, and wheeling it onto trailer, am I better off doing that or trying to fit it inside the suburban?

If it's like the one I have temporarily, there are four Alan socket bolts, one on each corner of the cabinet. If you remove the bolts, you can remove the top. You need a 3/8" Alan wrench to remove the bolts. But I'd prefer to move it without removing the top.

Be aware that the saw is HEAVY, even with the top removed. When I moved the one I have now (with top on), I use appliance rollers and a lift gate to get it into the truck. When I looked up the weight of the saw, I think is was about 500 pounds - that's with the top, of course, but I don't know if that includes the wings.

Also, you'll probably need to remove the Biesemeyer stuff to move it. Take a look at the Biesemeyer site and they'll have assembly instructions. Just do the opposite. Bring zip lock bags to put the hardware into.

Be prepared, bring tools. Work out the movement of the saw in your head before you get there.

Mike

[Matt Day]

And hope nobody gets there before you and buys it, that's a steal of a price with a Beis fence!

A hand truck will be helpful too. You should be able to put the saw against the back of the truck (use some heavy cardboard or moving blanket in between), and pivot the saw into the suburban. Thats assuming the truck is tall enough to handle the flip, if not, when it gets horizontal, push it in. A piece of plywood in the truck will help it slide. This is easily done with two people, with the extension wings and fence removed.

[Charles Lent]

The best way that I've moved them either with a trailer or pickup truck is to first remove the fence and side tables and then position saw at the tailgate. Put padding (moving pad or cardboard) on the trailer or pickup bed and then rotate the saw so it ends up upside down in the bed of the vehicle. Use the table part of the saw, resting on the edge of the vehicle bed as the pivot point and don't try to lift the saw. This takes 2 people, one on each side. It's top heavy, so it will ride better upside down anyway. Tie it down good so it can't move. If you want it further forward it will slide well on the cardboard or a moving pad. Just make sure you have enough padding. Again, tie it down good. You don't want the table surface rubbing on the truck or trailer bed. When it arrives at the new location, just reverse the process to get it unloaded. Again, don't try to pick it up.

Charley

[Randy Red Bemont]

I wouldn't let anyone take the top off of my saw. Remove the blade and you can inspect the trunions through the opening with a hand mirror and flashlight.
Push/pull on the arbor to check for any side play in the bearings.

Yes, that is a beis.

My thoughts exactly. Just bring a small flashlight to look around. Its a good saw at a steal price if you can plug it in and it starts. Unless he is holding it for you it should be gone already for that price! You will probably want some help loading it she will be heavy pulling up onto the trailer. Good luck and I hope you get it.

Red

[cody michael]

The owner did a horrible job of advertising, he had it listed with a bunch of other junk in list and 1 bad picture, I called on it and got better pics, he said he is holding it. The saw is about 2 hrs away and I work during the week. That's why I am going Saturday. I'm hoping it all works out

[Ralph Y Thorne]

The angle iron brackets that hold the fence to the saw are not shown in the pictures. The right side extension table is also not shown.

[Jamie Buxton]

If you do take the top off the saw, look out for shims between the top and the base. Reinstall each in the same location when you reinstall the top. The shims align the top to the saw blade when the blade is tilted a long way away from vertical.

[Jim Andrew]

Looks like my 04 model, and mine does not have the right hand cast iron extension. I have the long rails, and the laminate table is just that much bigger. That is a steal, don't let the right extension table mess it up.

[cody michael]

The best way that I've moved them either with a trailer or pickup truck is to first remove the fence and side tables and then position saw at the tailgate. Put padding (moving pad or cardboard) on the trailer or pickup bed and then rotate the saw so it ends up upside down in the bed of the vehicle. Use the table part of the saw, resting on the edge of the vehicle bed as the pivot point and don't try to lift the saw. This takes 2 people, one on each side. It's top heavy, so it will ride better upside down anyway. Tie it down good so it can't move. If you want it further forward it will slide well on the cardboard or a moving pad. Just make sure you have enough padding. Again, tie it down good. You don't want the table surface rubbing on the truck or trailer bed. When it arrives at the new location, just reverse the process to get it unloaded. Again, don't try to pick it up.

Charley

I think this makes sense, I will try it. the trailer I have is very low, it also tilts, so shouldn't be hard to get it in.

the seller says he has all the hardware for the fence, I will look at it when I get there. I am not sure about the right side table part, I am assuming he has it but if not I can make my own correct? its just a sheet of melanine?

I have a delta contractor 2000 series saw. It has a nice mobile base I really like, does anyone have any idea if the unisaw would fit on it?

[Charles Lent]

I think you will be better off not tilting the trailer if you plan to flip it onto the trailer bed. The more you tip the saw, the heavier it's going to get for the 2 people doing it. A pickup, like a Ford F100 or similar is just about the ideal height. You don't have to tip it much to get the edge of the top to touch the bed. Then it's relatively to use this point as the hinge and to hold some of the weight while you and your partner lift the bottom and rotate it vertically onto the truck or trailer bed. If your trailer is a lot lower than this kind of pickup, you and your helper are going to have to hold more of the weight as you tilt and lower the top of the saw table onto the trailer. The cabinet is just sheet metal. All the weight is in the top, the motor, and the mechanical parts just under the table. Much of this is cast iron, and VERY HEAVY. Oh, but all of this grunt work will be quickly forgotten when you begin cutting wood with it. You will wonder why you lived with those other saws all this time, just like I did when I got mine, a 1987 Unisaw with a 52" Unifence.

Charley