Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Need help with mounting options for recent shelf unit I made

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Temecula,CA
    Posts
    442

    Need help with mounting options for recent shelf unit I made

    Attached is a photo of my shelf I made for a local Starbucks so they can put their new tea containers on. Anyways I need to mount the shelf to a tile wall and I need to do it in a way that will not disrupt the interior volume of the shelves. In other words, I am new to woodworking and I did not leave myself much room to wiggle haha.

    As I said I am new, and I am primarily all hand tools. I do have a power router and I considered getting a keyhole bit( I think thats the one). Any and all suggestions are welcome and thanks for looking!

    WallShelfStarbucks.jpg

  2. #2
    How thick are the pieces? You might be able to get some metal keyhole plates that can be installed on the back edge of the sides. No special router bit required.



    An alternative would be to use cleats above and below. Work them in as part of the design.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Temecula,CA
    Posts
    442
    Thanks for the speedy reply Dave! The material is pre-dimensioned 3/4 pine from Home Depot. I did very little planing other than to remove the mill marks. I considered french cleats as well, but Im not quite sure how I could employ them at this point without reworking the design completely. The only way I can see using cleats, would be to add them to the back of the shelf. This of course would prevent the shelf from sitting flush to the wall.

  4. #4
    I was thinking of adding the cleats to the top and bottom on the outside so they are flush with the back. Not French cleats, just pieces of pine maybe 3/4 in. thick by 3/4 in. wide. Drill and counterbore them for screws into the wall, glue them to the case. Screw the case to the wall, bung the holes with plugs secured with the same finish you use on the case. No glue on the plugs will make it easier to remove them when the case needs to be taken down.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Temecula,CA
    Posts
    442
    That sounds like a better idea than French cleats, but I am still having trouble picturing your suggestion. Would your proposal not invade the interior space of the shelves? I realize how hard this is to put into words and I appreciate your efforts so much Dave!

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Cherry View Post
    That sounds like a better idea than French cleats, but I am still having trouble picturing your suggestion. Would your proposal not invade the interior space of the shelves? I realize how hard this is to put into words and I appreciate your efforts so much Dave!
    Dave is talking about gluing a strip of wood to the underside of the bottom shelf, and the top side of the top shelf. Thus no interior space will be occupied.

  7. #7
    Yeah. What Chris said. Sorry I wasn't being very clear.

    As I said in my first post, you should make them look like a design feature. They could look like an after thought. While they might be that, you don't need to tell the world.

    Maybe those pieces would be wider and have some decorative shape to them. Just make them look like you intended them to be there.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Temecula,CA
    Posts
    442
    Ahh I see now, thanks guys! Ill have to get some creative juices flowing here and see what I can conjure up to make it look like less of a bandaid lol. To be honest this was my first real attempt at doing dovetails so Im completely ecstatic that the piece went together and is square lol!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    6,390
    To leave the lines clean, and to stay out the intereior vaolume, you are likely best off using keyhole mounts.

    Inset the plates above, or cut keyholes [w/keyhole router bit] directly into the wood.

    You'll have to reach some comfort level on weight and # supports.

    Lesson learned [obviously]: figger out how you're going to hang cabinets before cutting wood. You are not the first - by far - to learn this one.
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,492
    Blog Entries
    1
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Temecula,CA
    Posts
    442
    Quote Originally Posted by Kent A Bathurst View Post
    To leave the lines clean, and to stay out the intereior vaolume, you are likely best off using keyhole mounts.

    Inset the plates above, or cut keyholes [w/keyhole router bit] directly into the wood.

    You'll have to reach some comfort level on weight and # supports.

    Lesson learned [obviously]: figger out how you're going to hang cabinets before cutting wood. You are not the first - by far - to learn this one.
    Haha yea I learned a couple lessons with this project, especially this one in particular. Thanks for the recommendation and I do believe I will use the bracket mentioned and cut a mortise for it to recess in.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Temecula,CA
    Posts
    442
    Thanks for those photos Glenn. I need all the help I can get.

    Thanks once again to everyone who contributed ideas and suggestions to get me through this, I'll post back when I complete the brackets!

  13. #13
    Not to sound like a wet blanket but are they indemnifying you, or do you have enough insurance, to cover the extremely rare instance that this unit falls, fails, give someone a sliver, or whatever? It stinks beyond belief to have to think that way but unfortunately its the world we live in.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •