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Thread: Table saws, explain it like I'm 5...

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Barry View Post
    The track saw has an advantage for breaking down a large sheet of plywood but I can do that on my table saw too. Does the track saw do cross-cutting for shelves? Does the track saw do miters? Does the track saw do dadoes? Does the track saw do rabbets?
    Actually yes it does. I bought a replacement festool mft top for $100 and some bench dogs. I can now make perfect 90 degree cross cuts and spot on miters. It does take longer to set up than a table saw, but at the end of the day, the result is the same and it takes up a fraction of the space. Not to mention it's easily portable.

    I dont mean mean to toot the track saw horn, but I have been really happy with mine since i made the switch.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat Barry View Post
    The track saw has an advantage for breaking down a large sheet of plywood but I can do that on my table saw too. Does the track saw do cross-cutting for shelves? Does the track saw do miters? Does the track saw do dadoes? Does the track saw do rabbets?
    I'm with you Pat. My table saw (PM66) is the backbone of my shop. I have a 1956 DeWalt RAS set at 90 degrees for accurate cross cutting and a Makita SMS for miters but it's rare that I work on a project and the table saw isn't part of it. I would buy the best heaviest table saw that you can possibly afford and have room for and keep it a lifetime. 20-30 years from now you won't be sorry. You can probably buy a older Unisaw or PM66 for half of what a SawStop will cost and they still may out last the SawStop. Of course there is a lot to be said for the safety of a SawStop. Keep your fingers away from the blade no matter what table saw you end up with.

  3. #18
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    Steve - do you already own a decent circular saw?

    The Eurekazone company sells an excellent track and mounting plate
    to turn a stable circular saw into a track saw.

    I use mine as you've described - on the rare occasion I want to break down plywood sheets.
    The new plate sold by Eurekazone has a nifty design to reduce chipout.

    The Festool system sets the standard, but that's long dollars to test the concept.

    http://www.eurekazone.com/product_p/ezts108.htm

  4. #19
    To answer part of the original question....

    I have the older version of the Jet you linked to... In my opinion, it's not worth $1400, maybe $800ish. The difference in price is going to be a combination of increased horsepower, better rip fence and a lot of other little things, some that contribute to ease of use, some to functionality and some to just how good the fit and finish is.

    Personally, I'd make sure you get at least 1 3/4 HP, a rip fence like the Grizzly has (Biesemeyer) and a riving knife... you have those three things and you'll be doing pretty good and won't have to "fight the tool" as much as something of lesser quality with less features.

    Track saw is nice... but like you said, they're 2 completely different tools.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    My father was 60 years old before he owned a table saw. He (we) always did everything on the radial arm saw... including ripping... safely!

    It all depends on how you are comfortable working. If your main tool is a radial arm saw and that is what you do most of your work on that is what you need and a good one will serve you well. Same with a track saw... if that is what works best for you buy a good one and make good use of it. For many woodworkers the indispensable tool is a table saw and it is well worth investing in a good one. It all depends on how you like to work and probably which tool you were taught on. I had a nice Jet 5hp 18" bandsaw... I sold it. I never used it and it was just taking up space. That doesn't mean that a bandsaw can't be an indispensable goto tool for a different woodworker though. I would bet that a table saw is the central tool in more woodworking shops than any other saw. That doesn't mean that to me a radial arm saw would be the last tool to go if I had to choose just one to keep.

    Of your table saw choices I still like the Grizzly the best. My table saw is a left tilt saw and I am completely lost if I have to do a bevel on a right tilt saw. I would definitely recommend getting a left tilt saw... many are very happy with their right tilt table saws though.

  6. #21
    So much awesome information here. Thank you all so much for your insights. I've got a lot more research to do before I open my wallet, it appears. I had never even heard of these track saw set-ups before!

    Thanks again!

  7. #22
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    Apr 2011
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    I don't have any experience with the track saw setups but would definately consider one if space is an issue. As for tablesaws, I just upgraded to a Sawstop for safety but there are many good used tablesaws available on Craigslist including some older Craftsman saws with cast iron tops. Check out this video where Norm explains the difference between various tablesaws.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUMif8_XQRE

  8. #23
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    It looks like all 3 saws have table mounted trunnions. Somebody correct me if I am wrong. The think I don't like about the Ridgid is the 2 piece aluminum extruded fence rail. I prefer the steel tube like the Grizzly and the Jet. That being said, the Jet is way overpriced for what you get as is most things by Jet these days. It is a shame that you can't do 220V. You could have a Grizzly cabinet saw for the cost of the Jet. I have the G1023RL and love it. If you have to have 110V then unfortunately your best bet is probably a used Uni with 1.5hp motor. You have to be careful because they can be a money pit by the time you get a good fence(not the jetlock some came with). The Uni also does not have a riving knife which I believe is a must on any saw.

    Put me in the camp of the tracksaw is a poor substitute for a table saw. I have one but it will go long before my tablesaw will. It can do a lot of what a table saw can do but the jigging and the setup time would be huge. I could make most cuts on table saw faster than the tracksaw folks could get their saw out of their box. I also feel the bandsaw is also a poor substitute for a table saw also. It is closer than a tracksaw but the cut it leaves is not glue joint ready like a table saw.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    North Reading, MA
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    I have a previous version of the Ridgid, it is similar, and I am very happy with it. It was fully adjustable, and I liked the 36 rip capacity along with the built in wheels. I did get a saw gauge (http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/149...Saw-Gauge.aspx ) to align the blade and the fence, and I couldn't be happier. Like a couple others, I did end up getting a track saw, and find it easier to break down sheet goods.

  10. #25
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    Not really a TS guy here...even though we have,and use daily(pro cabinet shop) some really nice ones.They're just a plain dumb design from the get-go.....like looking down the wrong end of a gun brrl?

    BUT,one way of looking at them for discussion and enlightenment is;think sm..med...large.Obviously material costs more as the size goes up,doh.But you'll notice that the creature comforts go up as well.So you have the size first,then your budget...now temper that with some options(usually quality).

    Another way is buy used...sell used.Actually a savy buyer can work their way up the quality ladder using this approach.

  11. #26
    Join Date
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    The biggest differences between the R4512 and the Jet Proshop are solid cast iron wings vs stamped steel, steel t-square style fence vs aluminum, cabinet mounted trunnions vs table mounted, 5-year warranty, 15 amp motor vs 13 amp, and generally better dealer support if you buy the Jet locally. The G0715P is more similar to the Jet, but has table mounted trunnions, a 1 year warranty, factory direct support, and a 16 amp 2hp motor that may require at circuit with higher amperage. Note that the R4512 and G0715P were both plagued by similar alignment issues a while back...hopefully that's been resolved, but can't be fixed if it exists.

    All are capable.... setup and blade selection will be big contributors to the end performance.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  12. #27
    Just to add that the Grizzly can be converted to 110v very easily if you don't have or want a 220v circuit.

    Red
    RED

  13. #28
    Routers can

  14. #29
    Steve:

    Given what you plan to do you may want to consider getting two tools - a good track saw and a decent contractor saw. There are now several companies selling track saw products similar to Festool's and almost all the major brands now offer contractor saws like grizzly's G0732 offering a reasonable compromise between precision/stability and cost at 110/120 Volt 15 amp power. I would not recommend used for either because they tend to get beaten up, but you can often find bargains in mfg-er (or importer) year end or other sales - last year busybee tools in Canada had a sale in which they offered a machine very similar to the G0732 for (I think) $545 Cdn.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by rudy de haas View Post

    Given what you plan to do you may want to consider getting two tools - a good track saw and a decent contractor saw.
    This would be my suggestion.

    I love my Makita track saw for breaking down sheet goods (to finished sizes), but i have no interest in trying to use it in place of my G1023.

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