Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 35

Thread: resawing with a rip saw

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Thompson Falls, Mt
    Posts
    100

    resawing with a rip saw

    I needed some 1/2 in panels to build cabinets . I initially made about 6 cabinets, and used my bandsaw mill to mill the 1/2 in stock with some over run. The same person then had me build another, and now another cabinet to match. I was out of 1/2 in stock, so am resawing out of 4/4. I do not own a bandsaw, so I re sawed using a 6 point rip saw. I think Jim K. mentioned using a 6 point Disston for some of his rips for panels. I did a couple of 6 in. x 20 in. long rips, and my question is about technique. This is how I did them... P1020246.jpg I sawed from one corner to the other keeping the saw carefully centered on my scribe line. The saw was loading up in 6 inches of rip cut. It was cutting ok in about 3 or 4 inches of wood P1020252.jpg. I flipped the board over and sawed to the center of the board from each side,repeatedly P1020255.jpg .

    I have not tried this before, so I am wondering where I can improve. Comments?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Your method is a good one and that's the way I've done it. The results look good, too.

    There was a lot of static on here about plowing a groove in both sides so that you can just saw without switching the piece, but I haven't done that.

    If you want to cut a wider cut and still get good bite, you'll need to increase rake or lower tooth count (you can get too aggressive with rake, though).

    I've never resawn pine, only cherry, walnut and beech and don't know if that has anything to do with the feel of the saw loading (and if it was in fact loading, or if it was the feeling of the saw teeth not being able to get a good bite).

    The following is my opinion from resawing the harder woods, and that is that it is harder to be accurate when you get at a shallower angle (e.g., leaning the board further forward), but the saw cuts faster (especially with aggressive rake) and the cut effort feels lower. It's not a fast process, but it's enjoyable and physically satisfying if you know you need exercise (I do).

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Longview WA
    Posts
    27,347
    Blog Entries
    1
    The saw was loading up in 6 inches of rip cut.
    It might help to lift the saw in the back stroke to help clear the gullets.

    Another thought is to make full use of the saw plate. a few short strokes using just the toe of the saw can make it difficult for the heel of a taper ground saw to get in the cut without binding.

    Pine and other woods will often close on a cut. Maybe someone needs to invent a riving knife to mount on a hand saw.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  4. #4
    It's useful to keep shims for resawing, even if they are the very cheap type of shims that are intended for cabinets and toilets (the ones that are like a buck or two at a borg).

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Victoria, BC
    Posts
    2,367
    I cheat. I cut a groove around the outside of the board with a thin kerf ripsaw blade on my tablesaw. I then cut them apart with my 4pt ripsaw. I find starting the saw, and tracking in the cut much easier this way. I waste more thickness in the kerf, but it works for me.
    Paul

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Coastal Massachusetts
    Posts
    6,824
    You should retire, now.

    You've succeeded, on your first try.
    I can't do this better, and I've had plenty of practice.

  7. #7
    I sometimes swipe a saw with 3-1 oil rag can ala Paul Sellers, quicker than parafin bar and does help when saw binds.
    https://paulsellers.com/2011/10/recy...r-tomato-tins/

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    105
    Quote Originally Posted by paul cottingham View Post
    I cheat. I cut a groove around the outside of the board with a thin kerf ripsaw blade on my tablesaw. I then cut them apart with my 4pt ripsaw. I find starting the saw, and tracking in the cut much easier this way. I waste more thickness in the kerf, but it works for me.
    I do alot of resawing by hand so I made some specialty items. I cheat too. A special plane with a sawplate to make the same kerf you're describing you making with the table saw. Of course, it has a fancy name "kerfing saw".

    coat rack 006.jpgcoat rack 005.jpg

    It still needs some finishing but it's functional. A much simpler version can be made if a fixed width is desired. Once the kerf is made around the perimeter, I come in with this:

    Frame Saw 001.jpg

    Rip saw works just as well as long as the kerf is established. Lots of good recommendations in this thread; using wedges, establishing the kerf, keeping as much of the plate in the cut as possible. I could also recommend waxing your sawplate as it helps with friction.
    Last edited by Mark AJ Allen; 01-13-2015 at 7:41 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Thompson Falls, Mt
    Posts
    100
    Thanks for the input. I checked my filing notes on that saw, David. It is filed with 5 degrees of rake, 4 fleam. I have a D 8 rip saw (also a 6 point) without a handle that I could file differently, maybe take the rake all the way to 0 degrees. That panel was Doug Fir, I also do some work with walnut and cherry oak and maple so I could use a different filing configuration anyway.

    Mark, I like the kerfing saw. That would be a good use for used up saw plates.

    Paul, I read on another thread something about a "Neander Decoder Ring". Would the use of a tablesaw be grounds for confiscation?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Victoria, BC
    Posts
    2,367
    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Rettenmeier View Post
    Paul, I read on another thread something about a "Neander Decoder Ring". Would the use of a tablesaw be grounds for confiscation?
    Sadly, yes. So I recant my earlier statement. :-)
    Paul

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Rettenmeier View Post
    Thanks for the input. I checked my filing notes on that saw, David. It is filed with 5 degrees of rake, 4 fleam. I have a D 8 rip saw (also a 6 point) without a handle that I could file differently, maybe take the rake all the way to 0 degrees. That panel was Doug Fir, I also do some work with walnut and cherry oak and maple so I could use a different filing configuration anyway.

    Mark, I like the kerfing saw. That would be a good use for used up saw plates.

    Paul, I read on another thread something about a "Neander Decoder Ring". Would the use of a tablesaw be grounds for confiscation?
    0 would probably be OK, but I have to admit I haven't resawn anything with more than 5 tpi. I have a 4 1/2 saw that's ultra aggressive and I also have to admit that it's a bit ungainly even in resawing because it's so aggressive - that would be in the woods I mentioned. I just don't know how that would translate to softwoods.

    It costs little to file your saw with zero rake and give it a try, though. There's a very large difference in the feel of a saw with 5 degrees vs. one with 0 degrees. No fleam, too.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Carlsbad, CA
    Posts
    2,227
    Blog Entries
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark AJ Allen View Post
    I do alot of resawing by hand so I made some specialty items. I cheat too. A special plane with a sawplate to make the same kerf you're describing you making with the table saw. Of course, it has a fancy name "kerfing saw".

    coat rack 006.jpgcoat rack 005.jpg

    It still needs some finishing but it's functional. A much simpler version can be made if a fixed width is desired. Once the kerf is made around the perimeter, I come in with this:

    Frame Saw 001.jpg

    Rip saw works just as well as long as the kerf is established. Lots of good recommendations in this thread; using wedges, establishing the kerf, keeping as much of the plate in the cut as possible. I could also recommend waxing your sawplate as it helps with friction.
    Very cool Mark . You've clearly done this before. I'm old and fat so hand resawing is not my favorite thing, but the Kerf plane is the way I would go if I could manage the work. Thanks for sharing the pics.

    Cheers, Mike

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Camden, SC
    Posts
    140
    I use a fair amount of pine for secondary wood and have done a fair amount of resawing and will offer the following. I believe the 0 rake will work fine in your application but keep in mind that it will be a bear to use for hardwoods. Also, if you get a coarser saw, the 0 rake will be to aggresive. My attitude is much like David's, in that I view the work as benificial exercise and I need it. Unless there is a lot of resawing to be done and then that cap goes out the window and I use the bandsaw.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Ellsworth, Maine
    Posts
    1,805
    I used to resaw a lot, prior to owning a bandsaw. I still redraw smaller pieces just because I enjoy doing it from time to time. Most of my resawing has been in hardwood, as hard as Honduran Ridgewood. I have two 5 point Rosales, one with 0degree rake and one with 5degree rake. The only time I use the 5 degree is on the really hard woods like rosewood. Maple, cherry, oak, etc all gets done with my 0 degree rake saw. I can typically redraw relatively accurate and fast if I can get in the groove. I find it to be fun work and great practise for cutting tenons and the like.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    7,254
    Blog Entries
    7
    I'm resawing about 10' of 10" wide walnut right now.....the fun wears off pretty quickly. My panel saw is general purpose, since I don't resawing very often, however wondering if setting it to a zero rake has a downside for other procedures.

    it has a 10 degree rake at the moment, and certainly is slow going.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •