what do I need to turn small knobs and pulls for furniture?

[Mike Allen1010]

I like to build furniture with hand tools, but I know absolutely zero about turning. I recently inherited a 30-year-old lathe in the original box that my dad bought from one of the last independent hardware stores in our area.

I've done a couple turnings of split columns between two centers (headstock and tailstock?) I've used for furniture .

What do I need to turn small knobs and pulls for drawers and such? I'm guessing some kind of chuck to hold the work – right? It seems like the steel rod that comes out of the motor to spin the work that the "toothed" drive center fits into his writing on the outside, but I'm not really sure.

I apologize for the naïveté my question. I'm sure the answer has been covered numerous times in previous posts, but I'm not good at searching for those. I would really appreciate any advice/recommendation about what kind of chuck/work holding device I need. For now, I'm not interested in doing any large bowl turning etc. – I'm just looking for something simple/functional, readily available and affordable that I will be able to figure out how to use.

Many thanks, Mike

[Marvin Hasenak]

For a cheap version I would make a screw chuck that fits the headstock. What brand of lathe is it? Do you know if it has Morse Taper in the headstock? Pictures of the lathe would help, especially the headstock and threads if it has a threaded spindle.

[Thom Sturgill]

The part that sticks out of the motor - called the spindle - probably is threaded on the outside and hollowed with ataper on the inside. the piece sticking in it si a drive center for holdeing work between the headstock (motor end) and tailstock which should also have a center point, either one mounted on bearings called a live center or a solid piece called a dead center.

Holpfully you also have a plate that screws onto the threads of the spindle and has holes for screws. This is called a faceplate.
Here is a video (not a pro ) of another user solving the same problem by creating what is called a collet chuck.

I would STRONGLY suggest that you find a club in your area and have someone help you.

[Paul Williams]

Another option would be to buy the $14 MT2 drill chuck from harbor freight. That assumes that your head stock has a number 2 Morse taper.

[Thomas Canfield]

There is a good chance that you may have a #1Morse Taper if lathe came from a hardware store, but in any case you can make a wooden MT screw chuck if the drive has a morse taper for smaller knobs and handles. You need to make a taper end on a spindle block to drive into the open shaft and then install a screw in the end. You should face off the spindle block before installing the screw. You can find a dowel connecting screw, wood threads both ends similar to a hanger bolt which has wood thread/machine thread. I did a similar thing a couple of days ago to make a knob for a pot for a friend, but used a disk in a 4 jaw chuck with regular screw from back side.

[Mike Peace]

You might be interested in the two videos I made on turning knobs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CsfWQoOIkNw
and this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJHl86Z_5hs

[Paul Williams]

Another option is Morse taper collects. I have a 3/8 inch collect that I use for finials and other small parts that have a 3/8 tenon. Probably won't work if you have a MT! but cheap and easy to find for a MT2.

[Mike Allen1010]

Thanks for the advice. My spindle is threaded on the outside and the drive center fits inside. I have no idea about what the taper is. I was assuming I could get a chuck (like on a drill) that I could thread onto the spindle and simply capture the the knob stock in the jaws. This seems way harder than I thought it would be.

[Thom Sturgill]

Thanks for the advice. My spindle is threaded on the outside and the drive center fits inside. I have no idea about what the taper is. I was assuming I could get a chuck (like on a drill) that I could thread onto the spindle and simply capture the the knob stock in the jaws. This seems way harder than I thought it would be.

You can. But you do need to know what diameter the outside thread is. If it is 1", there are chucks available from many vendors that screw on directly. Otherwise an insert is needed to adapt the chuck to your thread. The better chucks have a variety available.

The next issue is which jaws. Most come with jaws that clamp on a 2" circle. That would probably be too large, but the good news is that they are interchangeable and you can buy jaws that would work.

Alternately, find out the taper, probably MT1 or MT2. Harbor freight sells an inexpensive (~ $10) Jacobs chuck (like on a drill) with a MT2 shank. If the thread on the motor end is 1" or larger it is probably MT2. Take the center that you have with you and match it up. The difference in sizes is readily visible. The problem is that taper shanks can come loose when used without tailstock pressure, but there are workarounds for that too. A threaded rod through the motor (most lathes have a hole) can be used to retain it and many tapers have a threaded hole in the end.

[Dwight Rutherford]

Mike, it sounds like you want to use your lathe for a specific and relatively limited use (knobs & pulls).The easiest and most economical way to do this is to follow Thom Sturgil's solution in the last paragraph of the previous post. A Jacobs chuck and drawbar will allow you to do what you want.

[James Combs]

Mike, you can simply measure the head stock threads with a ruler or tape measure to determine what it is. Typical threads are 3/4"(diameter) x 16tpi(threads per inch), 1" x 8tpi, and 1.25"x 8tpi. Lay the measure across the diameter of the threads, if it is 1" it will read real close to 1", then lay the ruler across the threads and count the number of threads with in an inch, 1" will typically be 8 threads. If there are less then one inch of threads just count the number that is in 1/2" and double it.

As someone else posted it is most likely 1" x 8tpi with 3/4" x 16tpi being the next most likely. If it is 1" x 8tpi or 1.25" x 8tpi it is most likely MT2 taper. 3/4" will most likely be a MT1 taper. Pull(knock) out your drive center if not already out and compare it to this chart. The chart will identify the taper for you.

As someone else posted the simplest way of doing what you want to do is the Harbor Freight drill chuck with the appropriate tapered shaft on it and for safety reasons make sure the small end of the tapered shaft has a threaded hole that you can screw in a draw-bar(long piece of all-thread usually) to lock the chuck into place. Install the chuck with the all-thread screwed into chucks taper, put a washer on the other end, make sure the all-thread is long enough to stick out of the other end of the head-stock spindle, put a nut, a lock washer, and flat washer on it then snug it down maybe a quarter turn with a wrench. CAUTION, not too tight or the taper will be hard to remove from the spindle, tighten it just enough so there is no play. Now you are good to go, you can chuck up anything you want up to the size of the chuck jaw openings and larger wood blanks if they are attached to the item in the jaws. Hope this is helpful. BTW photos for questions like this are a big help.

If you have more questions continue asking them, we are here to help.

[Mike Allen1010]

Thanks a lot – you guys are great! It is such a blessing to find a community of gracious experts like you that are willing to help a beginner like me.

James and Thom, I really appreciate the instructions about how to determine what size chuck will fit on my lathe. I will take the measurements you suggested and explore my options. I'll let you know how it turns out.

I think I have a picture of the split columns I turned recently (my second attempt). If you're interested, there are more details/pictures in the Neanderthal forum "Chippendale lowboy build".

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Cheers, Mike