Foil Tape and Snap lock pipe question

[mike mcilroy]

I am installing 6"x24", 26 gauge snap lock from HD for my new dust collection system featuring a new Grizzly 3 HP cyclone

I have been snapping the pipe together and the fit is not always great so I've been riveting each end about 2" in with the smooth part of the rivet on the inside.


I have also been foil taping the inside seam thinking this would lower the SP somewhat because that inside seam looks so nasty.


My question: Is this going to help with the SP? Also has anyone had any adhesion issues if they did this?

[Tom M King]

I think it will be a LOng time before you have any adhesion issues with that stuff, other than if you ever want to get it off.

[Ole Anderson]

When I did mine I hammered the seam flat about 3" into the pipe and taped the exterior. Never thought of doing the interior. The inside seam runs parallel to the flow, so I was not too concerned about the roughness. I suspect any difference in the SP would be within the error limits of your instrumentation.

[mike mcilroy]

Ole
I hammered the seams as flat as they would go and they still looked like a collection pit for dust. With the 2' sections it was easy to tape the whole length inside and everything I've read says use smooth pipe (which I could not justify spending for when so many people have had success with the snap lock). I was thinking this would cut turbulence in the pipe as well as reducing the chance for build up. I just wondered if anyone had tried this or not. For the price of the foil tape at HD ($7.98) for 50yds it is a cheap experiment.
Tom
I get that just from the few times I've had to remove some! Didn't know about the dry dusty windy conditions but assumed the same as you suggest.
Just figured if I thought of it someone had more than likely tried already and could let me know what to expect.
Not too often I have an original thought.

[Lee Schierer]

I have also been foil taping the inside seam thinking this would lower the SP somewhat because that inside seam looks so nasty.

Putting the tape on the inside of a vacuum system could lead to eventual clogging if the tape pulls off inside the duct from suction. It would be a more effective seal if the tape were applied on the outside when the vacuum pulls it tight instead of trying to pull it off the inside surface.

I don't think the ridge left by the snap joint will be a problem even if a bit of dust does collect in it.

[Jim Andrew]

Be sure to put the joints so the inside is pointed at the cyclone. So you don't have chips catching in the joints. If you have a Ace hardware, check to see if you can get longer lengths of 26 gauge pipe.

[mike mcilroy]

Jim
I've set everything so the joints point to the cyclone so there are no jam points. Figured that out with a $45 optional dust chute for a Delta planer which fit inside the 1/2" x 13"dust port on the machine. Couldn't run that for two minutes without clogging. It was a Delta product too, you'd think they would have some engineer say no to the design. I ended up cobbling one from a furnace boot.
I like the 2' lengths for my shop size because by the time I put my wyes in there is only two spots where I need more than 4' of straight run and it is just much easier for me to work with. I think it makes any future changes in shop layout a little easier (not a lot just removing a 2' piece instead of 5' piece)
Lee
That's why I was wondering about the adhesion I'm pretty confident (famous last words) it will stay put. I was still planning on taping the outside after everything is in place.

[John Donhowe]

A couple of things come to mind: 1) you can orient the seams so they're on the top side of horizontal runs- dust (being heavier than air) will tend to flow along the bottom of the duct; 2) the dust that does collect in the seams will tend to even them out- filling cavities, etc.- making them smoother- a self-correcting problem; 3) you might be better served by taping the circular joints (between fittings), esp. since you're running at most 2' lengths. These contribute a lot more to turbulence than the longitudinal seams. By taping the joints you could probably get by without riveting. Just my .02

[mike mcilroy]

Thanks for the responses. I guess its just a little extra time for not much improvement. Oh well, nothing ventured nothing gained.