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Thread: Cabinet build

  1. #61
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    Thanks Christopher! Lucky enough young Henry seems to enjoy the soothing sounds of saws, chisels and planes, so the more woodwork the better....hehe or so I say to my wife.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  2. #62
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    This panel is for the bottom of the case, and so I'm doing half blind dovetails and spanning a good distance between the tails which gets wider as it goes toward the edge.

    The span in the center is so that these dovetails will cover my joinery for the battens which will be above the panel inside the case and this probably wont make a whole lot of sense until it starts coming together.

    I decided to make the base with those massive tenons because it will pass through the panel and through the batterns, then they will be wedged. I decided to take this approach over using screws on the inside of the case. I'm going through all of this extra effort because I plan to have a false back on this cabinet and so the back will not contribute to the rigidity of the case as much as it would otherwise.
    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 05-04-2015 at 11:09 AM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  3. #63
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    Jez Brian a sport coat really!? Lol

    Love seeing your WIP keep em coming.
    I got cash in my pocket. I got desire in my heart....

  4. #64
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    LOL, that's a good catch, but actually a robe. I put in some time before getting ready for the day and usually I'm too lazy to change.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  5. #65
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    Nice Brian! We have a few of the same tools, including iPad covers. Nice woods too.

  6. #66
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    Brian, I have really been enjoying tagging along on this one. Thanks for taking the time to show so many of your steps. I'm with you on the early morning shop time. I hit the shop on the alternate mornings of my workouts. I enjoy the shop mornings more ;-)
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  7. #67
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    LOL, that's a good catch, but actually a robe. I put in some time before getting ready for the day and usually I'm too lazy to change.
    I'm imagining a reality show focused around your casual woodworking life.

    It would be better than 99% of what is on the tube.

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Holbrook View Post
    Nice Brian! We have a few of the same tools, including iPad covers. Nice woods too.
    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    Brian, I have really been enjoying tagging along on this one. Thanks for taking the time to show so many of your steps. I'm with you on the early morning shop time. I hit the shop on the alternate mornings of my workouts. I enjoy the shop mornings more ;-)
    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Thien View Post
    I'm imagining a reality show focused around your casual woodworking life.

    It would be better than 99% of what is on the tube.
    Thanks Fellas! Glad you are enjoying.

    Lol, a reality show based on my life may hold a very narrow appeal as soon as I start waxing poetic about the Japanese hammer.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  9. #69
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    Finished dovetailing the bottom. I installed it as a test fit to make sure that I'm within a good tolerance for dimensions and squareness. The bottom was mildly out of square prior to assembly and test fitting the bottom brought that back in line with the top. Now the cabinet itself is a bit like a spinal cord with all of these free floating dovetailed frames.


    This installment is not as picture intense, sometimes, being in the heat of the moment I do not always reach for the camera.

    I started by trimming the bottoms to proper length and squareness. These are 5/8" thick panels, so I've taken to clamping them to the bench with holdfasts and a spacer on both sides and using the bench as a big shooting board as shown previously. It works beautifully on thin stock (not preferred on heavy stuff). Using a 45 degree pitch #7 plane for this.









    Next I marked the panels then cut them. For these I used heavy overcuts in the areas which will remain unseen. This looks gappy, it will be cleaned up in the final assembly.



    Mitered the inside sill to accept the bottom sill. What you may not see here, but is part of this, that bottom lip falls into a dadoed groove in the bottom of the panel. You can possibly make out the groove, but it's a rather tight fit. I used one of Terry's planes for that, what a wonderful device.



    Last I made the bottom sill and mitered the corners.



    These will be laminated in, but not quite yet.

    Here is an updated look at the cabinet as it sits.

    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 05-06-2015 at 8:47 AM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  10. #70
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    Brian Your joinery work is really something great. The rest of your work is the same. It gives me something to work towards. The photography is excellent also. Keep it coming I'm watching and learning.
    jim

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    LOL, that's a good catch, but actually a robe. I put in some time before getting ready for the day and usually I'm too lazy to change.
    Oh thank goodness. For a moment there I thought you were doing this exquisite work in your immaculate shop whilst wearing a suit and tie per your avatar. The quality of your work and cleanliness of your shop is about all I can stand. A coat would have finished me off.
    - Mike

    Si vis pacem, para bellum

  12. #72
    Really enjoying this thread.

    Not that it matters, any maybe I missed it, but what is going INTO the cabinet?

  13. #73
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    Thanks Fellas!

    Mike, I have a couple lab coats in the shop for day to day.....just kidding

    Phil, the top drawers are for jewelry, so I plan to line those. The bottom drawers are for delicates. I am planning it in a way where I expect it will be easy to repurpose if the plan changes, so the top drawers will be without small dividers. Instead I will probably just divide them into two or three sections.

    Today I built the major crossmembers to support the bottom of the case and top of the legs. The reason for this is mainly to support the base. I have plans to cut a housing into the bottom panel to accept the base, and so I wasn't confident that the remaining 1/2" of material would be strong enough to support what will eventually be a very heavy cabinet.

    All I had in the pile that I was willing to sacrifice and willing to work was hard maple and white oak....and so I chose the hard maple.





    I can usually saw well enough to dimension with the jointer and without needing to bother will using anything else. I have my jointer set with an aggressive chip breaker setting (.010"~) and so most straight grained wood looks gorgeous and doesn't need follow up with a finish plane.





    Cut to length, cut square then cut tapered dovetails on either end with heavy shoulders.



    I forgot to photograph the housing, so I may do so when everything comes back apart for the wedged through tenons on the base.



    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 05-06-2015 at 9:15 PM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  14. #74
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    Cut tenons, squared them and paring the baseline here;



    i had some heavy paring to do, and cutting on a skew while taking small bites moved through the work quickly.



    it was pretty square off of my block but needed a little tweaking;



    Same with these half laps, I want these to wind up very similar to one another before I cut the stretcher.



    Now on to layout and initial cutting of the mortises on the bottom panel and subsequent crossmembers;




    started by drilling just shy 3/4 holes with a brace and bit which allows me to cut clean holes and also maintain perpendicularity.

    This is the underside and it came through clean.



    I chop waste into the hole when cutting mortises and this works quite quickly on large mortises;



    I then spin the chisel and cut back toward the line again;



    i see mention of mortise chisels not being a priority for sharpness, mine are sharp enough to pare with and I maintain them with a strop while I cut.

    Needs a slight tweeting but it is mostly there;



    three more of these then cut housings, then onto the cross member;



    these are much tougher since the hole is 1" wide and 1.5" deep. So I will work from both sides and pare the finish, then return to the top to cut for wedges;



    i used to really dread mortise cutting, but practice makes a hell of a change along with a 675g hammer and paring sharp mortise chisels. I still take small bites and that helped tremendously to improve my results.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  15. #75
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    Nice chisel work Brian! 675g hammer is about 1 1/2 lbs/ 24 oz. I believe. The 4 lb Wilton hand sledge I use for splitting and convincing tractor attachments might be a little too much then, but the 375g barrel, Japanese chisel is too small? I have often wondered about what might be a good metal hammer size for driving Japanese mortise chisels. TFWW offers a 570g, Tools from Japan offers 670g hammers. I suspect Brian's is from a Gennou maker he mentioned in another thread. I suspect a metal hammer of that size would drive a mortise chisel with more authority and probably precision than a lighter hammer. Yes, Brian I am offering you the opportunity to just go ahead and wax poetically about chisel hammers. Just get it off your chest Brian, some of us are definitely interested in hearing your thoughts.

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