Finishing/protecting wood

[Sean Powell]

I just finished a coffee table and I want to protect it but without changing the color or sheen. What to use?

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Can you be more specific? I am not even sure that this addresses what you want to know, but/././.

When you say that you just finished it, do you mean it is now assembled, or, do you mean that you just applied some sort of finish (shellac, poly, etc) to the wood.

What is the wood? It may affect the finishing schedule if this is raw wood.

When I see that you do not want to affect the color, I think "clear finish", which generally means some sort of water based poly

I really like General Finishes Enduro Var, but it is not totally clear.

https://generalfinishes.com/retail-p...r#.VL_zabs0GlM

I have had good luck with this finish also (High Performance Polyurethane Water Based Top Coat):
https://generalfinishes.com/retail-p...t#.VL_zlbs0GlM

You can choose your sheen (satin, gloss, semi-gloss).

When I think Polyurethane, I think "plastic finish". It has pretty good abrasion resistance. If you purchased a coffee table, it would probably be finished with Lacquer. I think I usually see people saying that they spray lacquer, don't know if you can brush it on.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...s-polyurethane

Scott Holmes (second post) has a nice summary, smart guy! He is dead set against poly for furniture. I myself prefer Waterlox when I can use it. It will change the color, however.... and it would take a long time to cure (in my opinion).

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...quer-which-one

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...y-Polyurethane

Finally, understand that some of those threads are old (say 2011), and formulations have changed. For example, Behlens Rockhard Tabletop finish has been reformulated. Also, the water based stuff has improved a lot over the years.

[Sean Powell]

The table made out of walnut and it had some voids in which I filled up with epoxy. My wife likes the natural color of the wood and also the configuration of the grain.

Do I have to put a finish on it or will get stained over time?

She wants to keep the natural color as close as possible without any sheen.

[Kent A Bathurst]

It will get stained by whatever gets spilled on it. Coffee mug rings, spilled wine...............

Just an FYI - walnut is strange, in that the color lightens over time - instead of darkening.

You want a clear waterborne satin finish - from the guys here, I think the Gen Finishes products offers the best option.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

If you lived closer, we could run a few tests on scrap with stuff I have just sitting around


On darker woods, adding some yellow or orange will "warm" the look of the wood. I have suitable amber and garnet shellac, but these are not what I would call really tough finishes, and they will change the look. I finished a large cherry wine holder with shellac. If you want to keep the color, you need to use products already mentioned.

If you have the time, I like how Waterlox looks on Walnut, but again, that changes the color.

[Kent A Bathurst]

If you lived closer, we could run a few tests on scrap with stuff I have just sitting around


On darker woods, adding some yellow or orange will "warm" the look of the wood. I have suitable amber and garnet shellac, but these are not what I would call really tough finishes, and they will change the look. I finished a large cherry wine holder with shellac. If you want to keep the color, you need to use products already mentioned.

If you have the time, I like how Waterlox looks on Walnut, but again, that changes the color.

I always use garnet shellac as a seal coat on walnut - makes allt he difference int eh world.

Then, I saw a guy's work with high-end Federal pieces. He uses bright orange. That would make me gulp as it did him the first time - but the results were stunning.

[Prashun Patel]

How comfortable are you applying finishes? I'm going to assume (wrongly?) that you may be fresh to this. If so, then IMHO, the easiest way to a durable, natural looking finish is to use a wiping varnish (oil based). I suggest General Finishes Arm-R-Seal. It is formulated to wipe out of the can, is readily available, fairly inexpensive, won't alter the color too much, and can be had in many sheens. I recommend the semigloss product.

[Wade Lippman]

Get a water based varnish. The big boxes will probably have Minwax, which is just fine. Put on several coats and then very lightly scuff it up with fine steel wool to take the shine off. Do NOT put more varnish on after steel wooling it.
That will come the closest to looking like bare wood.

It is not what I would do, as I like the effect of oil based varnish on walnut, but it is apparently what you want.

[John TenEyck]

Take some of your scrap and try a couple of options on it to decide what you both like best. No finish is no solution as it will get stained for sure and they won't come out easily. I think your wife will be (pleasantly) surprised how much better walnut looks with a finish on it than natural. The grain will come alive. Arm-R-Seal looks beautiful on walnut, as Prashun said. Shellac looks great, too, but won't stand up to water, etc. unless wiped up very quickly. General Finishes Hi Perf. Poly goes on easily with a foam brush and is water white so it won't change the natural color of the wood. Personally, I'd go with Arm-R-Seal, 3 or 4 coats, and then rub it with 0000 steel wool after 7 to 10 days. It'll give you that close to the wood, silky feel.

John

[Charles Li]

+1 on the wiping varnish if you're new to finishing. I don't have very much experience finishing and even managed to mess up spray lacquer on a tiny box. The first time I used general finishes product it was like magic. Like I knew what I was doing for once lol. Brushing lacquer or poly definitely takes some practice and I've had my issues. A wiping varnish is way easier. It's so thin it flattens out right away. The downside is you need more coats and probably costs more (though I've never really done the math). You could make your own by mixing oil, poly, and mineral spirits. I don't have experience making or applying my own mix but people say it's basically the same ingredients as a premixed wiping varnish. Like people say, test pieces are the only way to know if you'll like the look or not.

To the people who use the GF waterborne products - isn't it harder to apply than an oil based poly? Do you spray it?

[Andrew Pitonyak]

To the people who use the GF waterborne products - isn't it harder to apply than an oil based poly? Do you spray it?

I do not own a spray setup, so I brush it on. Never had a problem with it. When my 6 and 9 year olds help me apply it with a brush, I generally keep an eye on them so that I can do any "clean-up" brushing that is required, and, I do the final coat by myself.

[Howard Acheson]

Virtually any finish you apply will cause some change in color to the wood. Even a "water clear" waterborne finish will have some color change.

To answer your own question, do what most professional finisher do and make up a sample board from scrap from your project. Apply the finish of your choice or multiple finishes and see which one gives you the finish you want.

[Sean Powell]

Thank yall for the help. Today going to rockler or woodcraft when I get out work today. Yes Im kinda new of doing this. Have finish plenty of outdoor furniture and we have always put a polyurethane on it since we live in Houston tx and the crazy weather we have here. My wife like to use chalk paint on the indoor furniture for the looks that she can get with that stuff. She asked me last night what if we use the wax that she finishes her stuff with and I thought I would ask yall what yall think?

[John TenEyck]

+1 on the wiping varnish if you're new to finishing. I don't have very much experience finishing and even managed to mess up spray lacquer on a tiny box. The first time I used general finishes product it was like magic. Like I knew what I was doing for once lol. Brushing lacquer or poly definitely takes some practice and I've had my issues. A wiping varnish is way easier. It's so thin it flattens out right away. The downside is you need more coats and probably costs more (though I've never really done the math). You could make your own by mixing oil, poly, and mineral spirits. I don't have experience making or applying my own mix but people say it's basically the same ingredients as a premixed wiping varnish. Like people say, test pieces are the only way to know if you'll like the look or not.

To the people who use the GF waterborne products - isn't it harder to apply than an oil based poly? Do you spray it?

I find GF's WB products easier to apply by brush than OB poly. EnduroVar and GF's HP Poly go on easily with a foam brush and flow out to a nice flat, smooth film. Can't say the same for OB poly, although it's been years since I've used any. With small projects or for finish in place projects I apply them with a foam brush. For most other projects I spray them in my shop. GF's HP Poly and Enduro Clear Poly spray beautifully; EnduroVar is more of a challenge for me to avoid orange peel - it actually lays down smoother for me with a foam brush.

John

[Rich Engelhardt]

Soap...

Google it for details.

Soap is used in the Scandinavian countries as the "go to" clear finish for all sorts of furniture. It's much more durable than one would think & is even used on floors.