Thanks Ron. Your backsaw designs have evolved into something that's better put on the shelf and admired, than been put to good to use.
regards Stewie;
Thanks Ron. Your backsaw designs have evolved into something that's better put on the shelf and admired, than been put to good to use.
regards Stewie;
Lovely saw Stewie.
The blackwood is beautiful.
It always amazes me how if you were to close your eyes and grasp a handle, even without feeling its weight, it is very apparent that it is hard and dense or not. There is just a coolness to it that your mind takes as a cue that it is hard and dense. I'm sure a wood like Tasmanian Blackwood has a nice feel to it.
Thanks Jim. I am hopeful that the way I have shaped of the hardback does not draw too much attention away from the saws main feature. The handle.
regards Stewie;
You could make a nib on the VERTICAL front edge of the saw plate!! NOT!!
Some feedback from another forum has prompted me to make a change to the way the top line of the brass hardback will end up being shaped.
The new profile now only extends 1 inch back from the front toe.
To accomplish this I have shortened the length of the saw plate from being 12 inches to now 10 inches. Not a big deal.
Hand filing the saw teeth to 14 tpi, with a fine tooth set has also been done. (I dont need a Foley Machine).
Here are the completed photo's of the backsaw.
regards Stewie;
The finish on the handle looks a little dull at the moment. The shellac still needs another week to fully harden before I can hand buff it to a higher sheen.
Stewie;
Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 01-27-2015 at 11:51 PM.
Stewie,great looking work. You have really good skills. But,how are you establishing the spacing of the teeth? Back in the 70's,when I had no saw tooth punching machine,I would roll a coarse rotary file down the blank edge of the saw plate,tapping the rotary file with a brass hammer as I went. This left clear notches exactly spaced where I could begin filing the teeth. Worked great for fine toothed dovetail saws.
When we made a lot of saws(as toolmaker) years later,I luckily had found a "Burro" tooth punching machine made in the 1940's,I guess. It came with several racks. None were fine enough for spacing dovetail saw teeth. I took a rack and milled an extra notch in between the factory cut notches to double the # of teeth the rack would space. Took a while,but worked very well. I could adjust the motion of the ratchet pawl to either use the fine spacings,or skip them and use the original spacings. I even made myself a super fine saw for guitar frets with about 20 TPI. I can't recall how I accomplished that,though. The thickness of the blade matched the thickness of the fret tangs,minus their gripping teeth.
Last edited by george wilson; 01-28-2015 at 8:45 AM.
Hi George. I use the following program to print a paper templates of the tpi spacing I wish to use. http://www.oocities.org/plybench/saw_teeth.pdf
The template is then cut out to remove the unwanted page background, folded down the middle, and then adhered along the top edge of the tooth line with a spray adhesive. The gap between each diamond shape on the template is where I file each of the tpi notches. After all the notches have been filed, the paper template is then removed.
regards Stewie;
Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 01-28-2015 at 9:43 AM.
Most excellent work! Also thanks for the link to the saw teeth.
Thanks Malcolm. It was only after I completed the kerf tests did I realize I had forgot to put my prescription glasses on. No wonder I was battling to see the pencil lines.
Good to hear the link was worth posting.
regards Stewie;
Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 02-01-2015 at 12:28 AM.