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Thread: Cutting very thin (1/16") strips

  1. #31
    Prashun,

    As I just replied to Chris, I'm puzzled why the short table saw rip fence is so little known to most
    Americans. Like I said, I read of it shortly after getting my table saw in 1979 and it just made sense to me.

    I might have seen it described in a book back then as the internet was still an academic toy. I suspect our European members are ROFLing at American now.

    You're right in that it does essentially nothing if the wood closes on to the blade. As Chris pointed out, only a riving knife can save you then. It does save you if the fence is somehow toe-in toward the blade as my Emerson/Craftsman fence can be if not carefully squared up before it is tightened down.

    BTW, I still use the much maligned original fence, I just tap the head against the rail with a mallet I keep handy before tightening.

    -- Teri

    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    Teri-
    I'm the typical American woodworker. Guilty as charged on the ignorance front, but not aversion

    I just googled 'table saw short fence' as I have never known about it. It does look like a genius thought on the face of it. I can see how it would reduce the probability of kickback. But it wouldn't be effective when released tension causes the kerf to close, though, right?

  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by dennis thompson View Post
    Rockler is out of their jig until the middle of March. I think I'll make one that I saw demonstrated by Microjig on youtube , it looks pretty simple and I have the parts already.
    Thanks for all the suggestions.
    Eagle America sells one that is just like the Rockler one only a different color. It is item 400-1040.

  3. #33
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    Yep,I'm lazy.I would use a utility knife and a straight edge
    http://www.certainlywood.com/woodmenulist.cfm?c=193

  4. #34
    I just happened to be (sort of) watching an episode of Woodsmith Shop, the "Dartboard Cabinet" and one of their shop tips segment near the end the show demonstrated a shop built jig to cut thin strips.

    It consisted of a special push block with a deep (wide) rabbet on the "waste side". The rabbet is cut to the thickness of the workpiece.

    The workpiece is pushed against the rabbet and held down by the overhang of the rabbet. A shoe on the end of the push block pushes the workpiece through the blade. The (non-European) long rip fence is adjusted so that the desired strip thickness is cut.

    The advantage of this jig is that the workpiece is guided and held down while it is being through the blade. And for those with an aversion to anything European, you can use your long rip fence

    The disadvantage is that the jig has to be thicker than the workpiece (as described in the show) and it was about as long as the workpiece. Variations on this jig could be made to accommodate differing workpiece thicknesses.

    Or ... you could simply use a short rip fence.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by dennis thompson View Post
    I have been making some toys for my grandson that require I cut some very thin, 1/16" , strips. I have a Ridgid table saw and a small Craftsman band saw, but haven't been able to cut strips this thin. I do have a Ridgid planer but I haven't tried that yet, thinking 1/16" is too thin for the planer. Does any one have any suggestions on how I might do this?

    Thanks
    I would make a European short fence that ends just past the front teeth on the saw blade.

    Simply clamp an "L" shaped construct of MDF that's 3 inches on both legs. (or anything that's flat) to the existing saw fence so that the MDF ends just past the front teeth of the saw blade.

    Now adjust the fence so it makes a 1/16" thick cut.

    The offcuts will fall free of the blade, giving perfect strips each time..............Regards, Rod.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack forsberg View Post
    what at great jig from rockler. Wow its brilliant
    Or you could use the proper short rip fence, set to your desired strip width and cut all your strips without having to move anything.........Rod.

  7. #37
    The only issue is that you need a thin push stick too.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    The only issue is that you need a thin push stick too.
    Nope, the cutoff piece falls clear of the blade, no pushing in the blade area, no risk of kickback...........Regards, Rod.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Teri Lu View Post
    I just happened to be (sort of) watching an episode of Woodsmith Shop, the "Dartboard Cabinet" and one of their shop tips segment near the end the show demonstrated a shop built jig to cut thin strips.

    It consisted of a special push block with a deep (wide) rabbet on the "waste side". The rabbet is cut to the thickness of the workpiece.

    The workpiece is pushed against the rabbet and held down by the overhang of the rabbet. A shoe on the end of the push block pushes the workpiece through the blade. The (non-European) long rip fence is adjusted so that the desired strip thickness is cut.

    The advantage of this jig is that the workpiece is guided and held down while it is being through the blade. And for those with an aversion to anything European, you can use your long rip fence

    The disadvantage is that the jig has to be thicker than the workpiece (as described in the show) and it was about as long as the workpiece. Variations on this jig could be made to accommodate differing workpiece thicknesses.

    Or ... you could simply use a short rip fence.
    This sounds like a reallly good idea, especially for relatively short (< 2ft for example) cuts

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    Teri-
    I'm the typical American woodworker. Guilty as charged on the ignorance front, but not aversion

    I just googled 'table saw short fence' as I have never known about it. It does look like a genius thought on the face of it. I can see how it would reduce the probability of kickback. But it wouldn't be effective when released tension causes the kerf to close, though, right?
    Hi Prashum, it would eliminate the issue where the wood curves towards the fence direction, obviously not if it's pinching the blade.

    The riving knife is never removed from the Euro saw, the multi function fence is used short for solid wood, long for sheet goods, and high or low in either length for thin strips or bevel cuts.

    I often use my fence in the halfway position for sheet goods as it provides more infeed guidance than a standard Bies type fence

    I love have the 3 function fence on my saw........Regards, Rod.

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Ludwig View Post
    HA! Put Hatfield, AR in Google maps and tell me how much French you can find.

    I did learn how to say "I don't know" in French. It's "Jenny say Pa"
    Yeah, and I know that "mercy-bow-cup" means thank you in French!
    Larry J Browning
    There are 10 kinds of people in this world; Those who understand binary and those who don't.

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