Really well executed. That finish really unifies everything.
I am curious why you chose to veneer the top instead of use solid wood. Was that to have more uniform grain for the top?
Really well executed. That finish really unifies everything.
I am curious why you chose to veneer the top instead of use solid wood. Was that to have more uniform grain for the top?
A very clean, modern look! Nicely done John!
Ken
So much to learn, so little time.....
Thank you David. I had to use a veneered top because I wanted to run edge banding along the end of them so that I'd have rift sawn grain on every visible surface. I would have had problems with cross grain expansion/contraction problems had I tried to do that with a solid wood top. There really was no other solution.
John
But having bit the bullet, and used plywood for the top, you didn't do that for the sides, so you were still left with a cross-grain expansion problem. Why not make the sides with the same process? Then you could have firmly fastened the sides to the top, and all the interior bits to the sides.
I don't know how I missed these John and I am glad you posted them. I do run into folks who don't care for the clean-line, sort-of Euro look but, I enjoy it. There are so many wonderful styles out there that we can use to express our craftsmanship. I would hate to limit it ;-)
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Really nicely done, John. Some of us actually prefer clean and modern to traditional! Great to see some very well designed and executed examples here, so thanks for posting them.
I could have used veneered panels for the sides, too, but chose not to because of the extra work it takes to make them. It was actually a lot cheaper to use solid wood due to the time savings, although it did make the pieces heavier. Cutting and sanding shop sawn veneer takes a long time in my little shop. And then you have to make the panels and sand them.
I didn't have any cross grain problems attaching the internals or the top to the solid sides. I glued the front and back stretchers in their respective DT sockets and used a floating tenon where they meet the dust panel rails (if that's the correct term) That allowed the sides to do what they wanted to. I anchored the top to the rear stretcher and let it float at the front by routing elongated holes in the front stretchers. The Blum drawer slides are fixed at the front and float at the back in one of the slotted holes. It seemed simple enough.
John
Beautiful John. I have genuine respect for all craftspeople. I have greater respect when a craftsman does more with less. Of note with you and your methods:
1-You made your own simple mortiser and you've proven it performs.
2-You saw and dry your own lumber.
3-Looking at photos of your shop I see basic low cost machines.
Congratulations John on your fine work. I have great respect for you.
"Whether you think you can, or you think you can’t - you’re right."
- Henry Ford
Thank you Andrew. I'm humbled by your kind words.
John