[OP]
Member
Saw this through an email from FWW - http://www.finewoodworking.com/tool-...ig-punch.aspx?
It works with Proxxon, Foredom and Dremel and has an LED light. From what I saw, it looks like it's well made and I like the plunge feature. BUT... it's a lot pricier than the Stew Mac base. And since they tried to make it as versatile as possible, it may be a bit cumbersome for certain inlay work.
For anyone interested: http://microfence.com/micro-plunge-base-p-274.html There's a video there too.
Contributor
It certainly is pricey. It does look pretty cool and I can see how it could be used to cut flat bottomed inlay cavities in curved surfaces like fretboards. Until I find a need for this, I'll continue with my Stewmac base.
i suppose the tool's best advantage is not having to work out your sequence of operations as carefully than with the Stewmac base where you really need a flat and broad substrate to reference the base. I have had some complicated workarounds in the past.
Last edited by Shawn Pixley; 01-24-2015 at 12:49 PM.
Shawn
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[OP]
Member
Yesterday I took the Stew Mac base apart to see if I could set it up to plunge. Larry Robinson described what he called stitching to outline the inlay rout. I imagined it to be done by plunging the bit down along the inside edge of the lines all around. But then I found out the SM base isn't set up for that. After taking it apart and analyzing the mechanics of the pieces, I am doubtful you could get a smooth action by modifying it without re-machining some parts.
When I saw this base in operation, it looked like it plunged smoothly. But I doubt I can justify the cost unless I find working with the SM base too risky. I still haven't gained the confidence to start on the real thing.
Administrator
I can't recommend the mini base but I own the MicroFence 3-axis mill that fits my Bosch Colt router and a micro fence. These are very high precision tools, nothing like them is available from any other manufacturer that I have seen. Pricey yes but the good stuff always is more expensive.
.
Contributor
Truthfully, I am not too optimistic about the stitching. If I wanted to try it without resorting to buying the plunge router, I'd try a pin vise and very fine drill bit. I would be very worried that referencing holes on the outside of the inlay would result in having too large a gap around the inlay when done.
However, I may not be following the method correctly. I don't know why you would need to mark the outline again if you'd already cut the outline on tape or in the wood.
Shawn
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"I resent having to use my brain to do your thinking"
Member
I have never liked trying to use a router base for inlay. You just can't see very well where you're going. I like my drill press with small StewMac down cutting carbide bits the best.
Moderator
High quality comes at a price and Microfence makes very high quality tools. I liked their Bosch Colt base so much I made one for myself based on their design.
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I looked through the site yesterday much more thoroughly. I does seem to be a well made, precision product. If I had more projects where this would be handy, I'd definately consider it.
Shawn
"no trees were harmed in the creation of this message, however some electrons were temporarily inconvenienced."
"I resent having to use my brain to do your thinking"
Contributor
My grandfather and I made an overhead pin router in the early 80's when I was making a lot of woodblock prints. You really can't beat that type of system for visibility and control. I wonder if my parents still have it. I still have my 36" x 36" CI press there. I should get it out here.
Shawn
"no trees were harmed in the creation of this message, however some electrons were temporarily inconvenienced."
"I resent having to use my brain to do your thinking"
Contributor
I tried this a couple of times, based on George's recommendation, and if you can get the thing you're inlaying into to stay flat on the table, this works really well!Originally Posted by george wilson
[OP]
Member
I'm having trouble visualizing this working. The spinning bit is stationary and you have to move the piece you're inlaying to rout it out?
Member
Yes,Julie. The drill press is spinning the bit very fast. You hold the fingerboard flat on its table,and move it about to rout the cavity.The drill press has a depth stop so you can raise the spindle,move the fingerboard under it,and plunge into the wood to begin routing at the exact depth you want to.I have much better visibility seeing that the bit gets very close to the line(preferably a CUT line,perhaps with a little chalk rubbed into the line).
I can get very close to the line this way,and trim to the line with a narrow chisel afterwards. I would not even consider using an Exacto knife as their blades are too thin and flexible. I have some 1/16" and 1/32" wide chisels I made that are very good for chomping to the line. I get tighter fitting inlays than that shown in the "creek" picture somewhere in this thread. My chisels are just made of simple W1 steel,hardened and tempered. Some people use an ice pick and file it into a thin chisel. I don't know how good a chisel would be made from that. It apparently suffices for those who cannot harden steel(though it really isn't that hard to do on small tools).
I have heard of inlayers who glue a piece of pearl onto the fingerboard. They draw the shape onto the pearl. They drill a very small hole clear through the pearl and the fingerboard. Then,they thread a fine jeweler's saw clear through the pearl and the fingerboard. They use a deep throat fret saw. They saw through the pearl and the fingerboard. Then,they lower the inlay into the fingerboard and glue the pearl and the loose plug of wood beneath it into place. Then,they chisel off the wood plug that sticks out from the bottom of the fingerboard to make it flush. This operation might best be done using a deep throat jigsaw that can accept jeweler's saw blades,like an old Delta jigsaw. A jigsaw with as deep throat would not hit the fingerboard as it is rotated during the cut.
You can twist a jeweler's saw close to the chucks on the saw to get around a curve where the saw frame is hitting the fingerboard. You can only twist it ONCE,though,or it will break. Some extra HARD jeweler's saw blades,like those made for cutting platinum,would probably break if you twisted them. Twist them with pliers about 1/8" from the chucks.
I have had saw blades that were too hard,and kept breaking while just sawing wood. I laid the whole little bundle of 12 blades on the top of my guitar bending iron,and let them slowly heat till blue. Then,they were fine,and did not crack under the tension of the saw frame. They still were hard enough to saw wood and pearl just fine. Do not heat above blue,or they will be annealed and will be too soft.
There is nothing wrong with using the inlay method I just described above. I just don't use it myself. Somehow,it doesn't appeal to me,though close fitting inlays could be made by that method if you use a fine,very thin blade. It really doesn't hurt the fingerboard. The truss rod keeps the neck straight anyway.
P.S.: A little Proxxon drill press might run fast enough to rout with. I don't know what their top speed is,though you could google it. 8,000 RPM is plenty. Rather annoyingly,they come with a set of collets rather than a chuck. The collets would hold a 1/8" shank cutter just fine,though. You can get a little keyed chuck for the Proxxon drill press on Amazon for about $12.00,if I recall correctly. The Proxxon is very light weight,and can be put on a shelf after use very easily. You might want to screw it down while using it due to its' very light weight.
Last edited by george wilson; 01-26-2015 at 10:02 AM.
[OP]
Member
Thank you for the explanation, George. It was just what I was thinking it was. As far as the bass I'm working on now, it wouldn't work. The fretboard is already glued on.
Contributor
If your going to purchase something.
I'd recommend this tool for manual inlay.
http://www.bluescreekguitars.com/sho...products_id=18
This tool to saw the male part of the inlay.
http://www.knewconcepts.com/8-inch.php
Jeweler Saw Blades
http://www.ottofrei.com/Saw-Blades-and-Saw-Frames/
You could ask someone to do your inlay on a laser if you haven't attached the fret board... if so.... it still might pay to remove with a heat blanket and let someone do the inlay on a laser. We stopped doing this several years back personally didn't enjoy it...( don't ask ) but if someone has a fairly large and powerful laser fairly easy with the drawings. Corian works well if you haven't decided on a material to inlay into your pockets..... ( one of the photo's of the vine in the upper part of the pictures has Corian as the inlay )
Blessings,
Kevin
Wood Inlay Vine 1.jpgTotal Inlay SM 3.jpgInlay Work SM 4.jpgLaser Wood SM 1.jpgPearl SM 2.jpg
Last edited by Kevin L. Waldron; 01-26-2015 at 6:51 PM.
Contributor
Years ago I suggested to Stewmac that they make a version of their base available with one of those turbine tools people use for wood piercing and carving. They never did anything with it. I almost just produced one myself. Those turbine rotary tool turns at about 400,000 rpm. You don't get much torque, but you don't need much and they cut like a hot knife through butter. It's almost like a well kept secret, but I think it would be the ultimate inlay tool.
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