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Thread: Dye problems; help needed

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    Dye problems; help needed

    Hi all,

    I've tried dying the outside of a few bowls and end up with the dye soaking through the end grain to the inside of the bowl. I've tired putting a light coat of shellac sealer on the outside first, but that didn't stop the problem. I'm afraid if I seal the outside too much then I'll have issues with the dye not adhering. Any solutions?

    Thanks,
    Greg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Blairsville GA
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    Greg, not sure how thick this piece is, but end grain will be notorious for that happening. I've not had that happen, but I don't dye outside of bowls, though I do dye hollow forms and the like. Here's my thoughts...since the inside is what you're trying to protect, I would suggest treating the inside with the shellac sealer to provide a dam against migration of the dye thru the end grain. Additionally...see if you can minimize the amount of dye on your applicator. Obviously, I'd suggest experimenting on a scrap piece first. Good luck, look forward to seeing completed piece.
    Laugh at least once daily, even if at yourself!

  3. #3
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    Jan 2009
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    How about some Charles Neal conditioner. The dye will still penetrate to color the outside but I do not know if it will prevent that kind of wicking but worth a try. I used it on a cabinet then dyed the cabinet and it came out great good dye penetration..
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Greg, it has been my experience that dye will move through the endgrain. The only way I have been able to prevent it from soaking through to the inside of a bowl was to dry-brush it and even then you are taking a chance. Other options would be: use an air-brush system, add the dye to lacquer or use a translucent acrylic. Good luck!
    Steve

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  5. #5
    Join Date
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    really light coats.
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  6. #6
    I have done a lot of dye work, and have had the best success with a couple of good coats of lacquer on the inside prior to dyeing the outside. If the piece is thin or porous, the lacquer should not be thinned and it might be best to pour a bit in a small container and let it evaporate for a few minutes to thicken. It doesn't take long.

  7. #7
    Do you have an air brush or hvlp? Seal the pores with clear shellac (or lacquer), then tint the shellac (or lacquer) with the dye and spray it. Done thin and as a toner like this, it's more prone to sit at the surface instead of being sucked through the end grain to China.

    I discovered toning like this on flat work and it was a revelation.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Durango, CO
    Posts
    201
    Thanks to all for your suggestions. I'll try these other methods to see what happens.

    Greg

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