Waterlox vs wiping poly

[Daniel Rode]

I'm building a fairly typical shaker side table using cherry. I don't plan to use any type of stain. This is a decorative piece and will not get much use and abuse.

My initial thought was to use a wash/seal coat of dewaxed amber shellac, followed my 3-4 coats of wiped on poly and finishing off with wax worked in with 0000. I'll let the sun do the rest to deepen and mellow the color

I've had several people and a project on FWW recommend Waterlox original instead. It seems highly regarded but I'm not sure why it's so popular. The amber color is one attribute that's mentioned, but amber shellac and time in the sun ought to get the color I want.

Any thoughts on Waterlox?

[Bill White]

Why not just stick with the shellac and wax? Not a durable as polycrapithane, but a beautiful and restorable finish.
Just my thoughts.
Bill

[Prashun Patel]

If you want a film finish, I think Waterlox is a less plasticky choice than poly. If your finish is thin (3-4 wiped on coats of either is thin) then the diff between Waterlox and Poly is marginal, especially if sealed beforehand with shellac.

If you use Waterlox, use "Waterlox Original Sealer Finish Original Formula". That's formulated to wipe on, and it's the dark one.


Either of the following will be great on cherry.

Shellac followed by poly
Shellac followed by waterlox
Just Waterlox
Just Poly

If you are going to use poly, I humbly suggest you add about 10% boiled linseed oil to the wiping mix. Flood on, buff off with clean towels. The BLO adds some amber depth to the poly and prevents it from setting up so fast so you can buff it off. This results in a thin, Danish oil-esque finish. On nonporous woods like cherry and maple, it's easy to get sheen quickly with this.

[Daniel Rode]

I've never had great success with shellac as a top coat. It dries so fast, I have trouble getting a smooth even finish.

Why not just stick with the shellac and wax? Not a durable as polycrapithane, but a beautiful and restorable finish.
Just my thoughts.
Bill

[Daniel Rode]

Thanks Prashun. I've never tried mixing BLO in the poly, but I think it may give me a sheen I like. I'll try it on some test pieces this weekend.

If the Waterlox doesn't give significantly different look, I'll stick with poly. I've used it a lot and know I can get good results.

If you want a film finish, I think Waterlox is a less plasticky choice than poly. If your finish is thin (3-4 wiped on coats of either is thin) then the diff between Waterlox and Poly is marginal, especially if sealed beforehand with shellac.

If you use Waterlox, use "Waterlox Original Sealer Finish Original Formula". That's formulated to wipe on, and it's the dark one.


Either of the following will be great on cherry.

Shellac followed by poly
Shellac followed by waterlox
Just Waterlox
Just Poly

If you are going to use poly, I humbly suggest you add about 10% boiled linseed oil to the wiping mix. Flood on, buff off with clean towels. The BLO adds some amber depth to the poly and prevents it from setting up so fast so you can buff it off. This results in a thin, Danish oil-esque finish. On nonporous woods like cherry and maple, it's easy to get sheen quickly with this.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I've never had great success with shellac as a top coat. It dries so fast, I have trouble getting a smooth even finish.

Rub it out. Not very hard to do. Various threads here about using Abrolon with mineral oil as lubricant - less messy than traditional sequence of wet/dry sandpaper through pumice and rottenstone, but I never had that big of a problem with that method either. PLus - you can get to whatever final gloss/sheen you want.

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> Any thoughts on Waterlox?

Waterlox is more durable and protective. For your application, that may not be a significant benefit. Shellac may be perfect.

[Howard Acheson]

>>>> I'll let the sun do the rest to deepen and mellow the color

Caution. The UV in sunlight will cause a poly or urethane varnish to be quickly damaged unless the glass contains a UV blocker. The poly will shortly begin to get cloudy and then begin to crack and peel.

It's best to use a non-poly varnish.

[Daniel Rode]

I've never had this happen. I have furniture that's been exposed to sunlight for decades and the poly, other than darkening slowly, is as intact as the day it was applied.

As for the sun doing the coloring, cherry darkens upon exposure to UV light. Leaving the table in direct sunlight for a couple of days is all that's required.

>>>> I'll let the sun do the rest to deepen and mellow the color

Caution. The UV in sunlight will cause a poly or urethane varnish to be quickly damaged unless the glass contains a UV blocker. The poly will shortly begin to get cloudy and then begin to crack and peel.

It's best to use a non-poly varnish.