Turtle Wax to protect table saw surface?

[Tom Burgess]

Man! Excellent replies. Thank you all.

In light of the many votes for Johnson's Paste Wax, I'll try to pick some of THAT up locally. Never used it before, so not sure what type of store sells it. I'll try the local Wal-mart, then Home Depot, etc.

I'm especially glad to read about its use on the tilt and elevation gearing. This is a new saw, and I want to give it "a good start", so that's great, useful information.

[Howard Acheson]

<<<< Turtle Auto Wax probably has silicones in it,

In addition, may auto waxes and polishes contain water to make the application easier. Use a pure wax like Johnson or Minwax.

According to magazine tests I have seen, the best protectorant is Boeshield T9.

[David Ragan]

I like to spend money of cheap stuff that makes me feel special, so I use the British Museum's "Renaissance Wax".

Yes, I have some Renaissance wax. Very pricey. Also have a can of Johnson's, much less $$. Have not noticed a difference.

FWW did a review recently, and the best rust protectancts were CRC Industrial 3-36, and WD-40. Both cheap. This is not a lubrication/friction test, just corrosion resistance on steel. Fine Woodworking #227, pp. 30-24 May 31 2012:

I guess it's time for me to go put a coat on the tables.

Seems much easier to just spray WD-40 or the CRC stuff. Anyone do that?

[ian maybury]

Definitely not a silicone containing wax. Some tend to have a strong and not very pleasant smell anyway.

Another Renaissance Wax fan here. I've used standard paste waxes, and they work well on flat surfaces. I'd argue though that the Renaissance is way ahead in terms of ease of application and polishing (it may be that the paste was i get locally isn't the greatest, but it needs quite heavy rubbing out to get a film on), and in terms of ease of application over detailed shapes. Once worked a little it becomes much like fine wax particles in a heavy oil, and as a result is easily brushed on.

It's excellent for example for waxing hand tools like say hand planes - it's possible to strip them down to component parts and brush a coat of wax on each and polish before re-assembly. Even threads are no problem, and its a very good almost dry lubricant. If left unpolished it produces a very durable dry wax film - it's actually better to polish it fairly soon after application.

Camellia is my favourite oil - it's very clean, doesn't stain, is good for the skin and does a reasonably good job of blocking rust. (have never directly compared it with anything else except WD 40 which its way ahead of)

The combination works quite nicely on wooden hand tool handles too - first rub out a coat of the camellia oil, then wax and polish...

[Brian Henderson]

Man! Excellent replies. Thank you all.

In light of the many votes for Johnson's Paste Wax, I'll try to pick some of THAT up locally. Never used it before, so not sure what type of store sells it. I'll try the local Wal-mart, then Home Depot, etc.

I'm especially glad to read about its use on the tilt and elevation gearing. This is a new saw, and I want to give it "a good start", so that's great, useful information.

Everyone has it, it's ridiculously common, you should have more trouble finding a store that doesn't carry it than one that does. Just look for this:

Paste Wax.jpg

[Peter Hartman]

The FWW article that did the test also showed that plain old wd40 was almost as good. I scrub all my CI down with wd40 and wipe them dry. Then I coat them all with johnson wax. I reaply the wax every month or so to keep things nice and slick.

[Kent A Bathurst]

............. not sure what type of store sells it. I'll try the local Wal-mart, then Home Depot, etc.

I get mine at the local Ace Hardware.

FWW did a review recently, and the best rust protectants were.........WD-40........This is not a lubrication/friction test........

I have always stayed away from WD-40 - but maybe I am misguided. My understanding is that it is not a lubricant, but a rust inhibitor - as noted. However, when in regular use, my tools don't rust - I just need the wax for a coating and a lube. But my other concern is that WD-40 might leave a film of gunk that translates to the wood?

[Steve Bansee]

I had some left over Ceramic coating that I used on my car (Cquartz). I tried it on my drill press table, Ridgid planer tables and jointer. Seems to be working decently, no rust spots yet in my humid garage and pretty slick. I don't think I would buy it just for my tools as it is costly. But, since I have it, and a little goes long way, and it seems to be working good, I'll keep on using it until it is done and then switch back to Johnson paste wax. (but I think it will be a while before it is used up).

[Joe Spear]

Go to the WD-40 website for an explanation of what's in it. Don't trust a lot of other nonsensical sites about what it is and what it's good for. That could be useless and harmful. It is about 1/2 highly refined mineral spirits (maybe naphtha related), some oils, some water-displacing (WD and the 40th formulation attempted) substance, some corrosion inhibitors, and a little of a few other things. It can lubricate you sanding/scraping media for removing rust from cast iron, help remove wax, loosen up old hardened grease, and some other similar jobs. But plain mineral spirits will also do those jobs cheaper. For corrosion inhibition, it is not very long-lasting, most of it evaporating quickly. Paste wax and specific products made for the job will last a lot longer. The main thing I use it for is water displacement. After I soak my tablesaw blades in a solution of Simple Green and water for a few minutes, I use a stiff nylon or brass bristle brush to clean off the crud from the teeth, dry the blade with an old towel, spray it with WD-40, and wipe again with a dry towel to get rid of the water on the blade so it doesn't rust.

[Edward Oleen]

Johnson's Paste Wax. Over the years I've bought so much of it my wife has stopped asking what I want it for, and that is saying something...

[John Donhowe]

Okay, +1 for Johnson's Paste Wax for the table top, but what about all the nooks and crannies on the bottom side of the surface- won't that rust as well? Those areas sound like good candidates for WD-40, or maybe a spray wax.

[Fred Heenie]

Johnsons paste wax for all metal surfaces in the shop. Wipe off the excess or buff.
If you take finishing wood seriously, NEVER allow silicone in a wood shop. ;^)
JMHO

[Myk Rian]

I apply paste wax and melt it in with a heat gun. Then buff.
NEVER use silicon.

[Tom Burgess]

Thanks for so much great information! I'll be looking for Johnson's Paste Wax (yellow can) this weekend.

How can I remove the wax in the event of repair or maintenance? Maybe Mineral Spirits?

Thanks

[Kent A Bathurst]

How can I remove the wax in the event of repair or maintenance? Maybe Mineral Spirits?

Not sure why you'd need to remove it, but if you did, any common solvent/degreaser should do it. MS would be fine - is my guess. Try it and see. Again - I've never had the need to remove it. My problem is getting off my butt and applying it often enough.