Making short dust collection hoses from long Ridgid-brand hose

[Johnathan Giordano]

Hi,
My dust collection currently involves a Ridgid vac, Dust Deputy, and a single 20 ft Ridgid-brand flexible hose which I move tool-to-tool. I plan to move to a 2 1/2 inch system with hard-tubes (or PVC), blast-gates, etc. I'd like to cut my existing 20 ft hose into pieces to use as 'drops' to each tool. I thought it would be trivial to find plastic fittings to screw into the cut-ends of the hose. I contacted Ridgid, but they told me straight-out that they do not make any adapters to fit into the cut-end of their hose (ugh!). I've heard of people running into all sorts of problems trying to do this (e.g. left-hand thread, right-hand adapter, fittings too big, adapters too small, etc.). I know some have made their own adapters by heat-softening PVC pipe, using Fernco fittings, but there are apparently no guarantees.

So I'd like to know if anyone has experience with fittings that will work on the cut-ends of a Ridgid hose. Thanks!!

[Brian W Smith]

We make our own metal fittings.An internal sleeve with an external compression clamp will solve "most" DC ducting issues.Need a sleeve for a 4"?....buy a pce of 6"(snaplock).Cut a 4-5 inch long pce....cut the snap lock part off......squeeze whats left and insert into joint(it springs into the fit).Basically the same thing with the compression clamp,except you bend 1/2" flanges through which go some 1/4-20 socket caps.

The "trick" on the compression clamp is to only bend one flange first.Then wrap the joint as tight as you can.....then mark where the other flange will bend up,adding whatever you deem necessary for the "compression".Add your 1/2" to the mark and cut.....then bend the second flange.Vise grip these two flanges together and drill your 1/4" holes.

These compression clamps are stout enough that they serve as moorings for the duct install.You can also do them where the flanges are not cut @ 1/2"....leaving them long to serve as hangars,but you aren't going to get that with a pce of 6"......you'll have to get some flat stock and roll your own.

[Johnathan Giordano]

Thanks for your reply. When you say '....cut the crimping off......squeeze whats left and insert into joint(it springs into the fit).' , it seems to me that your fitting will have an air leak in it along the cut edge. So if I use your metal fitting to insert into a blast gate, then it would leak air. What am I missing?

[Phil Thien]

On many shop vac type hoses, the "ends" are plastic cuffs that push into the ribbed hose and stay put by virtue of a corresponding rib on the cuff. You can pull the cuffs right out of the hose, cut the hose shorter, and then push the cuff back in.

Hoses with screw-on/off cuffs are similarly simple, but you just screw those cuffs off, cut the hose, screw them back on.

McMaster also sells hose, and separate cuffs.

[Jim Andrew]

What size is your hose? Only thing I have found is Rockler is selling a 2 1/2" swivel fitting. Although I have not bought one, so don't know if it works with my existing hose. Page 48 in the November catalog.

[Brian W Smith]

To begin with,we use flat stock and cut what's necessary.I was trying to show how you can utilize existing,or easily procured stock.....vs buying a sheet.

The joint is a two step affair.There's an "inner" sleeve and an "outer" clamp system.The inner is mainly for alignment......and honestly makes a traditional "crimped" connection look absolutely Fred Flintstone because;A crimped end restricts airflow....it's that simple.We have roll crimpers that do a great job,so it's not like I don't know how to do it.We went to sleeving because it allows an indexable,really smooth(inside),strong,and fast joint that can be taken apart on a whim.

The clamp system on the outside allows it to index,some folks call it "clocking" and is about 99% leak free and stupid strong.It's main bennys are you don't have to waste time crimping.And you are not reducing the airflow like a crimped end.Again...try to understand that cutting off the crimping is the snaplock part and was to expedite the material procurement.Best of luck,BW

Edit to add;We also swage tubing....think auto exhaust pipe.And we still practically always use a sleeved joint over swaged.

[Bryce Adams]

Brian,

Would you explain your outer clamp in more detail? Is this a store-bought fitting or are you making it? Any chance you could post a picture of one? Sounds like just what I need to connect to my planer.

[Johnathan Giordano]

On many shop vac type hoses, the "ends" are plastic cuffs that push into the ribbed hose.

Phil -- the attached image shows that the Ridgid hose has a flared end, thus creating a bit of a problem. Perhaps, I will have to just cut the hose, take a piece to Rockler or Woodcraft and see what does and does not work. I was hoping maybe someone had already done the legwork (!)

[Johnathan Giordano]

What size is your hose?.

I am using a 2 1/2 inch hose which is flared on the ends (http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-2-...2522/203235220)

[Phil Thien]

Phil -- the attached image shows that the Ridgid hose has a flared end, thus creating a bit of a problem. Perhaps, I will have to just cut the hose, take a piece to Rockler or Woodcraft and see what does and does not work. I was hoping maybe someone had already done the legwork (!)

Oh!

And you have to use the Ridgid hoses? Like you already own a bunch of them or something?

I wonder if using a heat gun and/or a pipe expander would allow you to get a cuff in a cut section of hose.

[Johnathan Giordano]

Oh!...Like you already own a bunch of them or something?

Yes -- I already own the hose and it is 20ft. So I figured it would make four nice 5'ft drops to my tools. Connecting these hose-sections to the blast gates and tools is now the sticking point.

[Brian W Smith]

See if this works Bryce.....moderators,can you delete this post?

[Brian W Smith]

Have no idea how the above pics got loaded?moderators,please delete the above post.

Here ya go Bryce.

1st pic.......swing away for BS door access.

2nd....duct hangar,albeit tied into a pce of steel angle

3rd...here's where it gets interesting.This is a quick connect for a cyclone we built from scratch.This is a truck filter that lifts off for cleaning.Those clecos are temps,because the black endcap(one on each end)got messed up in paint dept. because of some metal flake residual in the gun,which showed up,I got mad and haven't painted them again,doh.The filter arrangement is unique in that,it pops right off and because of the two endplates design,the whole thing will sit horizontally.Not important exactly here,but was a design study for an upcoming build.

Theres actaully a 4th,though not a compression clamp.Look where the cyclone fits into the top of the yellow can.That is a taper'd fit.The cyclone body slides up to get the drum out.Gravity holds it into the taper.And yes,this frame started as a junky handtruck,haha.

[Johnathan Giordano]

Thanks, everyone, for their replies. After additional looking, I did find a fellow here (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/75834) who discusses in detail (with specs) concerning the adaptation of 2-1/2 inch hose to a PVC-based dust collection system.