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Thread: veenering question

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    veenering question

    I am making some thick 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" legs. I tried using a lock miter bit and 6/4 cherry. Most of the legs came out ok but a couple need help. I decided to use cherry veneer over them. They came out looking great. My question is did I screw up using titebond neoprene plus contact cement? I started reading about veneering after the fact and I am not certain it will hold up to the wood movement. If I need to remove it and start over now is my only chance.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Contact cement shall not be used for veneering! Remove it now while you can or "pay more" later removing it.

    Is this shop-sawn veneer or commercial veneer? In other words, what is the thickness of it?
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Thanks its commercial veneer.

  4. #4
    I agree that contact cement is not a good glue for commercial veneer and that it can delaminate. The best approach would be to remove the veneer and then use a regular woodworking glue. There are glues made specifically for veneer, but regular PVA will also work. Urea formaldehyde (UF) is a good veneer glue, cures hard with no creep.

    I use PVA on a lot of my work and have never had a problem.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  5. #5
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    I love the UF stuff. Scarey stuff, though cause it is a fine powder that can get airborne. if gets into your chest could be a problem, as it sets up w just water. A little would go a long way in causing permanent respiratory problems.
    But-hey.....no creep at all. When i do veneer i want to know it will stay put, right?
    David
    Confidence: That feeling you get before fully understanding a situation (Anonymous)

  6. #6
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    David,

    UF stuff? Might you referring to Unibond 800 or some kind of Urea Formaldehyde?
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Padilla View Post
    David,

    UF stuff? Might you referring to Unibond 800 or some kind of Urea Formaldehyde?
    Urea formaldehyde
    David
    Confidence: That feeling you get before fully understanding a situation (Anonymous)

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Henderson View Post
    I agree that contact cement is not a good glue for commercial veneer and that it can delaminate. The best approach would be to remove the veneer and then use a regular woodworking glue. There are glues made specifically for veneer, but regular PVA will also work. Urea formaldehyde (UF) is a good veneer glue, cures hard with no creep.

    I use PVA on a lot of my work and have never had a problem.

    Mike
    I don't care for plain yellow glue as it is a bit too thin and can sometimes go through the veneer on some pieces. I've had better luck with Titebond cold press glue so far. Next veneer project will be used with hot hide glue.

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