Is There Any Way You'd Make A Wood Countertop For A Bathroom?

[Erik Loza]

Late to the discussion but we have walnut countertops in both bathrooms. No issues or complaints. Enough epoxy and anything is waterproof. As probably has already been mentioned, leave the underside surfaces unfinished. Best of luck.

Erik Loza
Minimax

[Bill McNiel]

I've made approximately 6 or 7 wood Kitchen or Bath counters over the years. Never had a call back or complaint, I use West Systems (usually two coats) and then Waterlox top coats.

[Mel Fulks]

But Rich, there are old houses that still have old toilets and wood floors that are still good. Must everything that used to
routinely work be abandoned because it is difficult to get someone to do it right.

[Peter Quinn]

But Rich, there are old houses that still have old toilets and wood floors that are still good. Must everything that used to
routinely work be abandoned because it is difficult to get someone to do it right.

Exactly. Do I need to have a concrete slab on grade with wash down drain to have a "safe" bathroom. I've seen 100+ year old houses with wood floors in the bath, no issues, I've seen wood installed in newer construction in the bath.....no problems. If you are in the habit of incorrectly installing toilets or have two rowdy kids that play the splash game in the tub them you leave the water they displace on the floor.....well that brings us back to the slab with the drain really.

[Keith Pleas]

I use West Systems (usually two coats) and then Waterlox top coats.

I'm not following this at all. Penetrating tung oil over epoxy? The instructions for Waterlox would have you remove the epoxy first, right?

[Bill McNiel]

Keith,
I consulted with both West Systems and Waterlox before trying this approach and they said to go ahead. Not convinced, I tried the tic-tac-toe test several times with positive results so I went ahead with the concept. I am by no means an authority but have not had any problems yet (first tried this about 8 or 9 years ago). Because the Waterlox "self-adhears" it allows the customer, in theory, to revitalize the surface on their own.

[Keith Pleas]

Keith,
I consulted with both West Systems and Waterlox before trying this approach and they said to go ahead. Not convinced, I tried the tic-tac-toe test several times with positive results so I went ahead with the concept. I am by no means an authority but have not had any problems yet (first tried this about 8 or 9 years ago). Because the Waterlox "self-adhears" it allows the customer, in theory, to revitalize the surface on their own.

So what exactly are "positive results"? Are you saying that the oil penetrates through the epoxy? I can't see that happening. I think you're saying that the oil gives an oily finish (?) to the epoxy. And, of course, it smells good! But the penetrating qualities, like for all other penetrating tung oils (Starbrite Teak Oil, Daly's Seafin, et cetera)...if you aren't penetrating the epoxy (which cannot be a good thing!) then why not just buy straight tung oil (about $45 a gallon)? If you want to get brand name tung oil you could buy Minwax - that's $25 a quart (works out to $100 a gallon).

PS: Just after posting I read the Woodcraft flyer - they have "Wood River 100% Pure Tung Oil" on sale for $49.99. It's "Easy to Apply" and "Produces a Rich Lustrous Sheen". Because, you know, after all it's just tung oil. Pardon me when I go back to squeezing my (tung) nuts.

[Bill Orbine]

I've done bar tops! Topped with Behlen's bar top finish. I've done one six sided shower stall out of cypress (5 sides cypress, 1 side curtain). Coated with Sikkens marine varnish. No complaints.

[Bill McNiel]

Keith,
"positive results" = No lifting of the Waterlox, ie. it adheared to the epoxy, ability to rub out the surface to client's desired sheen and no degradation of the wood over time. Pretty much what I was going for, as opposed to "an oily surface".

BTW- after a couple of coats of Waterlox applied directly to a wood surface I doubt it is providing any additional "penetration", but I don't know for sure.

[David Kuzdrall]

Keith,
"positive results" = No lifting of the Waterlox, ie. it adheared to the epoxy, ability to rub out the surface to client's desired sheen and no degradation of the wood over time. Pretty much what I was going for, as opposed to "an oily surface".

BTW- after a couple of coats of Waterlox applied directly to a wood surface I doubt it is providing any additional "penetration", but I don't know for sure.

how did you apply the epoxy and how thick do you think the epoxy film was?

[Keith Pleas]

Keith,
"positive results" = No lifting of the Waterlox, ie. it adheared to the epoxy, ability to rub out the surface to client's desired sheen and no degradation of the wood over time. Pretty much what I was going for, as opposed to "an oily surface".

BTW- after a couple of coats of Waterlox applied directly to a wood surface I doubt it is providing any additional "penetration", but I don't know for sure.

OK, I can see that there's something that remains on the surface of the epoxy that can provide a different sheen. Have you been able to capture this effect in a before / after photograph? I would imagine that would be extremely difficult.

[Bill McNiel]

David,
The application process is to pour the epoxy on the surface, spresd it evenly with a smooth roller and then top it by lightly draging with a 1/3 cut of the smooth roller. This usually eliminates the vast majority of bubbles, never really liked or had much sucess, with that whole "heat the finish with a torch to raise/pop the air bubbles". Most marine stores that sell West System products have the smooth rollers.
After two coats I level the surface by sanding before starting with the WaterLox. I'm not sure what the epoxy finish thickness is in mm, but it is not anywhere as thick as the epoxy pour bar finishes one sees. Each coat of epoxy is approximately the thickness of a "thick" coat of latex paint.

Keith - I haven't tried to photograph the difference in finish effect. Truth be told, my photo documentation of completed projects sucks. I will try to locate some photos to post. I originally started using the WaterLox over the epoxy base when I did some counters out of 100 year old fir that the clients wanted the milling marks left in but didn't want nooks and crannies that would be bacteria growth environments, hence the epoxy as a filler and serious waterproof membrane. I couldn't get the desired final finish sheen and texture with the epoxy alone, hence the WaterLox topcoat.

Please understand that I am self educated in wooodworking and finishing, some by research and alot by trial and error. I only post or comment in an attempt to share a little of what I have learned in fifty years of working with wood. I'm no expert in/at anything and still learn alot from this forum.

[scott vroom]

I see the potential for this to spiral into a SawStop-esque debate.

73 and counting

[David Kuzdrall]

Bill,

Thank you for your response, this gives me a couple of ideas. I am not sure if you can get any pictures of either of the two projects you mentioned, but if so it would be a big help. I really like the idea of epoxy but I hate the thick look that it usually has.

[Kent A Bathurst]

73 and counting

Dude.

Another topic that will not die.

YOu win.

Regards.