Up/down all around doesn't matter. NOT the bast way to handle this project. Kickbacks seem to be the common problem worried about around here. Here's the result of a kickback in 1985. As said "Mess with the bull,you get the horns".
Contributor
Up/down all around doesn't matter. NOT the bast way to handle this project. Kickbacks seem to be the common problem worried about around here. Here's the result of a kickback in 1985. As said "Mess with the bull,you get the horns".
Member
Seriously, if it feels at all dangerous to do, don't do it. Find another way. That is not a cut to be attempted on any table saw, ever.
Contributor
+1. With all due respect, that doesnt look safe enough as-is. Unless you used a GrrrripR or equivalent to hold it down during the pass, Id worry about the possibility of it getting airborne. Edit: And PLUNGE CUTTING that grill? Not for me, Im afraid.Originally Posted by Ken Frohnert
Glad you got it done safely.
Fred
Last edited by Frederick Skelly; 01-31-2015 at 9:12 PM.
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."
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I've done lots of glass rabbits that are stopped cuts for cope and stick doors where the top gets glass and the bottom gets a panel, but the pieces are usually longer. It sure gives you pause when you drop a piece of hardwood on a whirling razor and proceed to cut knowing you will be raising it again with your hands even closer to the blade shortly. This is one of those things that gets the job done but just isn't for every one. You have to have a very steady hand, nerves of steel, and be quite daft. JR, those pieces look hairy. i see that dreadful pile of oily teak dust there, brings back lots of bad memories. We did a bunch of very similar grates in mahogany a few years back using an over arm pin router, never felt scary, though those will take a finger too. I also did a few one off's on a bridgeport, and that takes it, never felt scary, DRO makes it very accurate. Must be a good friend!
"A good miter set up is like yoga pants: it makes everyone's butts look good." Prashun Patel
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Sorry J.R......I'll have to agree with Coloccia. Raise and lower the blade is my preferred method. I count the number of turn when raising blade and come to a mark I place on the saw. As for spacing the grooves, the Wixey digital measure makes it so much easier. I've made speaker grills similar to yours. I do this on my UniSaw.
Good job on your speaker grill.
Member
I think we can all at least agree the vent looks good
Contributor
+1 on using a router
Member
What irony! The Sawstop gave the OP a false sense of safety which led him to perform a very dangerous operation he would not normally have attempted. In this case, Sawstop ownership made working more dangerous.
[OP]
Contributor
Well, I'm not advocating doing this sort of cut, but I knew it would spark some discussion! Be safe. If it doesn't feel right to you, don't do it.
I wouldn't have done it if I didn't feel like the parts were stable, the cut controlled with stops, the active area blown clean after each cut, nothing in the likely path of an ejected part, and confidence in the blade brake.
JR
Contributor
I think it looks a lot scarier than it really is.
Contributor
I agree.
When I was 13, I'm 55 now, we did essentially the same thing in wood shop class to make "Egg Crate" speaker cabinet grills. The teacher made a sled that effectively had a ZCI top and bottom, and we used a 3 wing moulding head mounted to the table saw. It took a lot of time, Lots of passes, but if a bunch of 13-14 year olds could do it safely in 1972. I'm sure JR can do it safely today.
( A router in 1973 was a bit much for a 13 year old to handle.)
Nice work JR.
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)
Wow, that is really dangerous, whether you are a novice or a professional this technique exposes you to far more danger than is necessary to get the job done. . I speak from personal experience here. It took 21 stitches to fix the damage and I was fortunate not to lose any function in my finger. Your fingers were about 1-1/2 inches away from a spinning blade. If you want to make that type of cut, It is FAR safer to lower the blade, counting the number of turns to get the blade below the table. Place the wood on the table, start the saw and raise the blade into the wood while holding it in place with a push block. Make the length of your cut. Turn the saw off, lower the blade and repeat the process for the next cut.
Lowering a piece of wood onto a moving blade is risky. Any irregularity in the wood grain or slight misalignment of the piece can result in a violent kick back. Since you are holding the wood against the stop block you are applying force that should the wood suddenly move out of the way. Guess where your fingers go. For your sake, please don't do this again. Consider yourself lucky for getting it done the first time without mishap.
Last edited by Lee Schierer; 02-01-2015 at 5:11 PM.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
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I am assuming we all consider unexpected stress elements or conversely voids in wood as the biggest unknowns that can bite us when performing cuts? I am not discounting known issues that can bite us.
Contributor
While I would not do that on my Sawstop, the OP is a very experienced woodworker and runs a woodworking business. I assume that he has done this before. What is OK for others may not be good for me.
I think that the important thing mentioned several times is that if you do not feel safe or just have a uneasy feeling do not do it and find another way.
Contributor
Its not saying that one isn't qualified, but that there was a safer way to get the same results.....
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