Dirk, I was wondering if the original sharpening could have caused the stress cracks. The band is thin and sharpening the carbide is a finesse job that gets more difficult with each try. Dave
Contributor
Dirk, I was wondering if the original sharpening could have caused the stress cracks. The band is thin and sharpening the carbide is a finesse job that gets more difficult with each try. Dave
Member
That is too bad about the Woodmaster blades. I have never been a fan in any form of the Lenox product in general. Many think they make a great product, and they are happy with it. I don't share that opinion.
I have been using, and so far have no reason to change, the Timberwolf VCT blades for years. They re sharpen at least once I believe.
They are not cheap, but cut well.
I don't know about bandsaw blades, but when I spoke with Joe at W. D. Quinn Saw , he told me on circular blades at least that they "scope" the blades and in most instances only have remove a few MICRONS to get to sharp. That would all but eliminate gullet grinding, or back of tooth grinding that is rampant in the circular sharpening world.
I know, because I have been through dozens of sharpening companies, with hundreds if not in the thousands of blades sharpened.
I don't know if the bandsaw companies have invested in this level of precision equipment though. My bet is no, as most of their product line is low end/low cost consumable type product.
But for shops that need or want the level of performance the carbide provides, and can afford the initial up charge for a premium product I would hope we are getting there.
Oh, for the record, I run my blade on a 36" saw, so metal fatigue is much,much less than a 24" machine.
[OP]
Contributor
Peter, the Timberwolf VCT is a $265 blade on my saw....and you're saying I'll get one resharpening?
I'd rather spend the $300 on the Laguna Resaw King, and get 4 sharpenings.
Also, my understanding is that many of these blades recommend a 16" wheel or greater. Therefore I'm assuming a 24" saw is plenty large enough to eliminate metal fatigue.
Member
Dirk, my comments were just offering another option, not trying to convert anyone.
Certainly, if those numbers are accurate, AND the blade can last thru the 4 sharpenings without fatigue and breakage? -because they will ALL fatigue - , then that makes the most sense from a cost perspective.
A 24" machine is still what I would consider on the small side, and then we don't know the rpms vs a bigger machine, or maybe I'm not remembering it. All leads to more and faster fatigue.
I would be surprised if you get all 4 sharpenings.
It appears you have found the best cost/value relationship with your choice IF they last.
Member
I re-saw with my band saw and I like "Supercut" 1/2" carbide blades. For my saw they are cheaper than Woodslicers and last a LOT longer.
No PHD, but I have a DD 214
Contributor
Peter, is Quinn resharpening your VCT blade or Suffolk? Only one resharpening? I am interested, we started with the low end steel Timberwolf blades and were never happy with those. Been using Woodmaster bi metal and medium happy with those. About ready to pull the trigger on a Woodmaster carbide for the 36" saw for a large knotty white oak job coming but might rethink that. It is about how many resharpens you can get.
Jim, I put a Woodmaster carbide in the little 14" saw and it only lasted for less than a year before it broke. I assume because of the small diameter. I have been running the Supercut impregnated blades since and very happy with those for the price. No resawing on that saw but some thick 3" or so pattern cutting. They seem to go a year and get dull before breaking. For the cost it has been good in that saw. What type saw are you using those on? I did not think about trying those in the 36" saw but could be another choice.
Joe
Member
Joe, I sent them to Suffolk, it was before I knew of, or had any dealings with Quinn Saw. Suffolk I think said 1 re sharp only? Don't remember for sure now. I also think it was at about 1/2 the price of a new blade.
The more info I'm learning about here, the less attractive their pricing seems, even though I feel the product is excellent.
I don't honestly know if Quinn can or does re sharp bandsaw blades, or even carbide bandsaw blades?
I just know that on circular, their sharpening is the best I've experienced. They are conscientious about how much or little needs to be taken off.
Some past services I would get 3 sharpenings on a new Euro tooth carbide blade! That was far from acceptable!
I might be inclined myself to see about another brand of carbide blade due to overall end cost, though I am more than a little leery of cut quality.
[OP]
Contributor
Originally Posted by peter gagliardi
Frankly, I'd be very surprised if I DID NOT get at least 4 sharpenings, since that's what Laguna advertises.
[OP]
Contributor
Yeah, my Woodslicers dulled in a single day.
Member
I have a couple of the RSK blades and while they do last quite a while, I've now switched to Lenox BiMetal blades. The RSK's were just too slow for my liking. They leave a beautiful finish, but I need to re-saw quickly and then I send them through the wide belt after, so clean cuts were not the priority. The blades I'm using now cut faster and actually lasted quite a while….plus I think they were only like $60 or so. It's now getting to the point where It'll need to be sharpened soon and I'm going to make an attempt at doing it myself. Figure if re-sharpening works I'll be saving myself a bunch of money on blades
good luck,
JeffD
Member
[QUOTE=
Jim, I put a Woodmaster carbide in the little 14" saw and it only lasted for less than a year before it broke. I assume because of the small diameter. I have been running the Supercut impregnated blades since and very happy with those for the price. No resawing on that saw but some thick 3" or so pattern cutting. They seem to go a year and get dull before breaking. For the cost it has been good in that saw. What type saw are you using those on? I did not think about trying those in the 36" saw but could be another choice.
Joe[/QUOTE]
A year!? I would never expect a blade to last that long re-sawing. I have a 14" Grizzly GO555 with a one horse power motor. The 1/2"carbide blade cost me about $25 each. ( I buy five at a time). I resaw about 800 board feet a year of six inch maple and cedar, with some oak and walnut also. I use about 2-3 of these blades a year.
No PHD, but I have a DD 214
[OP]
Contributor
Jim, note that Joe didn't state how much resawing he does.
When I bought my Minimax 24" saw new, I also bought a Lenox Trimaster...and it lasted me 4 years, resawing (note that I'm also not qualifying how much resawing I did). Point is, duration that a blade is on the saw means nothing, if it's not qualified with how much work it's doing.
Jim, what carbide blade are you buying for only $25? Although I see now, you said it's only on a 14" saw....
Back to the thread....
I haven't contacted Laguna yet. Neighbor is cutting down 4 trees today, and I get all the wood....so I'll be busy....
Contributor
I was discussing 2 saws and several blades in my post. After I read it again it is pretty confusing...
The 14" Delta we do not use for resaw work. Just general shop curve work that goes in spurts. With the 14" we used the normal steel blades for a long time but they do not last long in hard woods. So for the 14" I sprung for a carbide Lenox Trimaster or Woodmaster for about $100+ if I remember. It cut great but the weld broke after about 6 months while still sharp. They rewelded the joint but broke again in a different place shortly after. I have been told by several people these just dont work on the small saws.
Eagle Tool then recommended the Super Cut blade for this saw. It is carbide impregnated, not tipped. I am real happy with this one in the 14" saw. It goes a long time without any breakage.
My 36" saw is what we use for resaw and what I was thinking about springing for a carbide blade. At 243" it gets spendy and want to make sure I can get some resharpens. We have been using a Lenox Woodmaster Bi metal in that one. About 2.5 teeth per inch. Cuts rough but accurate. We usually cut or door skins 6mm and plane them to 3.5mm. I figure we get 200 to 300 skins out of that blade before it dulls. Have only broke one of those and it was because we ran it too long.
I may stick with that. I watched Wadkin Jack's video of resharpening with a die grinder and tried that yesterday. Took 20 minutes to sharpen. Figure 1/2 hour or so with setup. It is actually cutting better than new. I would not want to try that with a blade with many teeth as it is pretty tedious. Those blades run 40 or 50$ so a half hour spent is about break even with shop rate time.
Still want to hear more carbide resharpening experences.
Joe
Moderator
I'm not a pro nor do a ton of resawing on my MM20 but the Lenox Diemaster II bimetal blades (6 tpi, hook style blade) cut very nicely for the money. I've never been a fan of the Woodmaster CT but I do love my Trimaster. I've never tried a RK but just have to pick one up one of these days and see what the fuss is all about.
[OP]
Contributor
Got our Resaw King back from Laguna today, that we run on our 24" Minimax.
This was its first resharpening.
I'll load it up, and let everyone know how it cuts.
I called Laguna about the Resaw King that broke, on our Grizzly.
Nick, in customer service, didn't bat an eye, and said he'd send a new one out as a replacement.
You can't get better customer service than that.
He then gave me an RMA for returning the broken one, so they can inspect it.
So far, my experience with Laguna and their Resaw Kings has been nothing but excellent.
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