My Old Tool Cleaning Process, as requested

[Rich Riddle]

Thanks for the information. It provided a good deal of knowledge and offers quite a bit of practical value. It's much appreciated.

[Karl Andersson]

you're welcome Rich - it's a good winter activity or for in-between projects...very meditative and relaxing.

Stew, I have used the metal polish on "patina" areas next to remaining plated areas I was shining and it did not remove the patina, or at least not much of it. The car products tend to have some wax in them, so initially at least, they make the patinated area very shiny, but still darkened. In fact, it doesn't seem to do much at all to patina except the shine, so it might not be worth doing unless you're looking for extra gloss. The polish on the cloth usually blackens immediately from the oxidized metal, but the abrasives are so fine I don't think they can do much. I haven't done a plane body - it might reduce the friction on the sides and bottom, making it easier to plane or shoot.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Karl,

I just wanted to provide a heartfelt thank you for the detailed explanation with supporting photographs. This thread has been very helpful for me.

It never occurred to me to try try simple green. I have certainly spent time using an oil that is almost a thin jelly consistency along with steel wool to remove rust. I was also thinking about giving electrolysis a try just to see how that comes out.

[Chris Hachet]

Karl,

I just wanted to provide a heartfelt thank you for the detailed explanation with supporting photographs. This thread has been very helpful for me.

It never occurred to me to try try simple green. I have certainly spent time using an oil that is almost a thin jelly consistency along with steel wool to remove rust. I was also thinking about giving electrolysis a try just to see how that comes out.

Simple green worked out fantastic on that vintage #3 Stanley that I acquired from you...

[Chris Hachet]

Threads like this are quite useful. I will leave this thread and Mike Allen's about saw restoration on the forum for about a week after the last post is added to the thread. At that point the threads will be moved to the Neander Sticky area at the top of the Neanderthal page so that they will be permanently available to forum users and don't get lost.

This would be really helpful to guys like myself who are still learning the fundamentals of hand tool woodworking.

[Karl Andersson]

I'm glad this is useful information - should be a bunch of clean tools ready to start the spring woodworking season. In addition to the Simple Green (other cleansers may work, but I know this one does and doesn't have bleach in it), I think what works best for me is the tips-only brushing. It seems to be easy on the metal but cleans quickly - and the brush lasts a long time.

One thing I forgot to warn about; be careful with PB Blaster if that's what you use for penetrating oil - if the wood is bare or has cracks in the finish, it will stain your wood dark, darker than just an oil stain. I screwed up a saw handle with it while trying to loosen the bolts before I figured that out. It can suck into the end grain where even cleaners can't remove it.