DNA vs Coleman Fluid "White Gas"

[Steve Huffman]

I’m seeing a few threads on DNA so….
Ok here’s a curve ball for you all. I was using DNA for soaking my projects with success like everyone else. I am now using “white gas”
also known as camp fuel or Coleman Fluid, and here’s why. I have been a taxidermist for over 30 years, and we wash our small mammals
and birds skins in white gas to remove fats, oils and water. All the unwanted material (fat) including water settles to the bottom of the bucket. So since
DNA mixes with water and becomes less affected, the white gas and water separated allowing to slowly pour off the good gas from the top into a clean bucket
and getting rid of the water at the bottom. I soak bowls for 24 hrs, sometime a few days and don’t think it make a difference, but at least 24 hrs.
I understand in advance that this is not for everyone, just like some taxidermist that think it’s too dangerous to have flammable material in their shops…ok cool,
this isn’t for you. But for those using DNA now, white gas can be used over and over, not anymore flammable than DNA, and leaves no odor in wood.
DNA here, I paid $15.00 per gallon, and Coleman fluid around $12.00 at Walmart.

Now, I have had great success so far with Aspen, Cottonwood, Oak, Box Elder and a few others. Some woods like pine or pitch wood I think I would stick with
DNA because the gas will not dissolve pitch, but the alcohol will, so unsure about that.

I’m not recommending anything here, just sharing with you all what I’m currently doing. I can tell you it works for me. I soak in a 5 gallon bucket with a very tight
fitting lid.
Remember, before some of you blast me for using white gas, I already said this might NOT be for everyone! I was also a firefighter for 15 years and I might be
more app to using this than others.

Steve

[Brian Brown]

Just don't use a blow torch for charring the edges! I have no idea how the white gas would work. I have never heard of this, so I am anxious to see the answers you get. I didn't know DNA would dissolve pine pitch, so I learned something good here today. I have some turning ideas using pine, but have avoided it because of the pitch. Thanks for the info.

[Bill White]

Isn't Coleman fuel naptha?
Bill

[Ralph Lindberg]

Yes
Coleman is Naptha, which is a mixture of cyclohexane, nonane, octane, heptane, and pentane

It has an octane rating of about 50.

Obviously, from a quick glance at the included hydrocarbons, it's not that dissimilar to regular gasoline (octane, heptane).

Nothing I would use to soak wood in.

[Roger Chandler]

my concern would be about food safety.......especially for item that come in contact with food we eat. what might work for wood drying purposes, might not be so great for food items......carcinogens that cause harm to humans. sounds like a lawsuit waiting to happen if someone who got sick were to trace it back to a bowl.

I wonder if residual VOC's might leech through a finish?

[Paul Gilbert]

I am baffled as to how petroleum distillates - naphtha, mineral spirits, or white gas - would help dry wood. Alcohol absorbs water and leaves behind a dilute water-alcohol mixture which evaporates faster than just water. It is the absorption process of alcohol taking up water that is the basis for the DNA soak process. Petroleum distillates, alcohol, and turpentine will all readily extract rosin from coniferous trees, as well as any waxes or oils present, but I don't see how this helps dry them.

[John Keeton]

For that matter, DNA contains hazardous materials, as well, including some that may be residual.

[Roger Chandler]

For that matter, DNA contains hazardous materials, as well, including some that may be residual.

I was thinking about that very thing, while I was typing my earlier reply, John..........I wonder if DNA is considered as toxic as naphta? I am not a chemist, and would never want any turning of mine to cause anyone sickness. That is the why of my earlier comment about leeching through a finish. Perhaps someone with more expertise than I have could speak to a finish's ability to seal off any VOC's, or if allowing a piece to totally dry [evaporate] the DNA will be sufficient with an added finish.

We do know that some alcohols are consumable by humans so I wonder how toxic DNA is if allowed to totally evaporate prior to final finish?

[Scott Hackler]

The main difference I can see between white gas and Dna is the refinement and purity of the alcohol. The quick evaporative property of Dna makes it very safe to use, as well as it's flash point. The smell and toxicity would deter me from using the white gas. (knowing that Dna isn't a "safe" chemical as well)


The price point is a bit high for me too. I buy 5 gallon pales of Dna for $50 or so.

[Prashun Patel]

The main difference is that they are two completely different chemicals. Anything they have in common (flammability) is coincidental. DNA is a water soluble and is an alcohol. White gas/naphtha is a hydrocarbon and as such is oil soluble.

The way I understand alchohol drying is this way: Wood containing water in the cells is placed in a bath of alcohol for a couple days. The concentration of alcohol and water in the cells reaches equilibrium over time with the bath. This is possible because alcohol and water solubilize each other and hence can move freely over/through each other.

Then you take the bowl out of the solution, and the mostly dna remaining in the cells now passes through the cell walls more easily than the previous water could, and evaporates into the ambient air.

I would have thought that a water-containing bowl placed in a bath of white gas would repel the gas, and the gas would prevent the water from moving into the bath. It should in fact SLOW drying during the time it's emersed.

I would therefore think that any apparent drying you're seeing is coincidental and that your wood is just reasonably stable and would not have cracked even if you did nothing to it.

I'm not saying you're wrong - just that I don't understand the mechanism of displacement. Since I have an abundance of MS, I'd love for this to work!!!

[Steve Huffman]

I did forget to mention that I do not use white gas or DNA for edible bowls and as Roger mentioned, would not know for sure
how safe it would be. I'm not a chemist so wouldn't take that chance, and I have made a few small edible bowls and just let them
just dry naturally. I also want to say that the drying time is about the same using DNA /white gas from what I can tell, so no gain in dry time.
Again, one benefit is that you can separate the white gas from the water, were DNA gets diluted and weaker every time you add wet wood. Any water
settles to the bottom of the bucket. It's nice to see all the comments, and would nice to see a few try this and see what they think. I know it
works for me.

[Roger Chandler]

I guess it depends on the objevive......buying less of the drying agent? Seems like since the "white gas" [naptha?] is more expensive, it would not give you gains in the long run, unless the idea of refreshing every so often seems objectionable somehow?

I think experiments are neat......I applaud your effort here, Steve........just looking at the whole picture and wonder if it is cost effective, practical and a better alternative to DNA or other drying processes.

[Reed Gray]

I will stick with not wanting anything on my bowls that I can't eat straight out of the can, even if it doesn't taste good. For most people, the solvents, will evaporate out enough to not present problems. For those who are sensitive to them, there is always a risk.

robo hippy

[Steve Huffman]

Thanks Roger, your right if your getting a better deal on alcohol.
Sounds like I might be wrong about the cost? For me, Coleman was about $12.00 a gallon last time I bought. I priced DNA at "Crown" brand at Lowe's
last time I was there at $15.98. Now Scott is getting DNA for $10.00 for a 5 gallon pail, so maybe it's not a good deal if you guys are getting DNA or have
cheaper source.
BTW, I also experimented with regular unleaded gas from the pump. It also works and drys the same, but I air dried outside for an hour, then paper wrapped
the wood to dry on the shelf and stunk up my garage. Smelled like a gas station for a few days. Real cheap, but can't handle the smell...I wouldn't go there.
The white gas is no more smelly than the alcohol. One sure benefit is that it doesn't dilute or get weaker like the DNA does so I would have to say your going to
buy much less.

[Stan Calow]

Naptha is not soluble in water. DNA is ethanol (the same alcohol as in your beer) with a small amount of something more toxic like methanol or acetone, added to make it non-drinkable. So vodka would work too. Cant see how Naptha would remove water. It does dissolve fats and oils. May change the physical texture of wood to feel drier.