I don't think that either of them have a clear advantage for starting out. I think the pros and cons for each are pretty well balanced.Originally Posted by Mike Audleman
Member
I don't think that either of them have a clear advantage for starting out. I think the pros and cons for each are pretty well balanced.
Shenhui 1440x850, 130 Watt Reci Z6
Gerber Sabre 408
Contributor
Leaving aside the price, is it "hobby-friendly"?
By that I mean, is it something that can sit for a week or two and then fire up and run without a lot of set-up/clean-up overhead? Or is it more suited to a run-every-day environment?
Yoga class makes me feel like a total stud, mostly because I'm about as flexible as a 2x4.
"Design"? Possibly. "Intelligent"? Sure doesn't look like it from this angle.
We used to be hunter gatherers. Now we're shopper borrowers.
The three most important words in the English language: "Front Towards Enemy".
The world makes a lot more sense when you remember that Butthead was the smart one.
You can never be too rich, too thin, or have too much ammo.
Well, ok thenI will see if they will include a spool of each insted of 2kg of one.
I looked at resin SLA printers and their maintenance overhead seemed to be higher than FDM type printers. They are susceptible to dust and debris entering the resin pool so they must be kept dust free and in a dust free environment. FDM printers do also need a reasonably clean environment (ie, don't set it next to your belt sander) but are less prone to problems from that environment. The filament can easily be wiped as its fed into the extruder (and I have seen many addons and attachments for exactly that purpose) and on nearly all models, rods and screws are self lubricating/cleaning. The resin, once contaminated with debris must be filtered, a slow process.
SLA do tend to produce finer details than FDM printers. But they also lack the flexibility of colors, multiple colors on same print, and lack the ability to use nearly all of the creative types of material (rubbers, stretchy stuff, wood, glow in the dark, stone and metallic) that FDMs have at their disposal.
Changing material on a resin SSS is also an extended process, far more complicated than FDMs and simply backing one filament out of the extruder and feeding the next one in which can be done while paused making a model. I don't believe that resin can be changed during a print though I am not entirely positive on that aspect.
With resin SLA, you are working with a liquid and spills are going to happen. With filament FDMs, well, its impossible to spill a solid filament
Those here who are into 3d printing may find this project of interest. Its somewhat related to the current thread. It combines SLS (Selective Laser Sintering) with a laser etching/cutting machine. Yea, you can build an addon to your laser CNC machine and turn it into a SLA printer. And they were doing it on a 40w and 80w machine which many of you own
http://reprap.org/wiki/OpenSLS
[SIZE=1]Generic Chinese 50w 300x500
Lulzbot TAZ 5 3D Printer
Corel X7, Photoshop CS6, Lightroom 4
Modo, Bryce, Poser
If You Can Read, Thank A Teacher. If You Can Read It In English, Thank A Veteran
That's what you do in a herd: you look out for each other. - Manny from Ice Age
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That's kinda what I was afraid of. While I can provide a relatively clean environment (i.e. the same spare bedroom the laser is in), keeping what amounts to an open paint can dog-hair-free would be a full-time job, and I wouldn't be able to just blow it out with compressed air like I do the laser.I looked at resin SLA printers and their maintenance overhead seemed to be higher than FDM type printers. They are susceptible to dust and debris entering the resin pool so they must be kept dust free and in a dust free environment. FDM printers do also need a reasonably clean environment (ie, don't set it next to your belt sander) but are less prone to problems from that environment. The filament can easily be wiped as its fed into the extruder (and I have seen many addons and attachments for exactly that purpose) and on nearly all models, rods and screws are self lubricating/cleaning. The resin, once contaminated with debris must be filtered, a slow process.
...
With resin SLA, you are working with a liquid and spills are going to happen. With filament FDMs, well, its impossible to spill a solid filament
I was blown away by this technology when I first saw it in action (mid-'80s?)...never expected it to get down to this price point. So it goes.
Yoga class makes me feel like a total stud, mostly because I'm about as flexible as a 2x4.
"Design"? Possibly. "Intelligent"? Sure doesn't look like it from this angle.
We used to be hunter gatherers. Now we're shopper borrowers.
The three most important words in the English language: "Front Towards Enemy".
The world makes a lot more sense when you remember that Butthead was the smart one.
You can never be too rich, too thin, or have too much ammo.
Contributor
You've clearly never done any fly fishing.With filament FDMs, well, its impossible to spill a solid filament
Yoga class makes me feel like a total stud, mostly because I'm about as flexible as a 2x4.
"Design"? Possibly. "Intelligent"? Sure doesn't look like it from this angle.
We used to be hunter gatherers. Now we're shopper borrowers.
The three most important words in the English language: "Front Towards Enemy".
The world makes a lot more sense when you remember that Butthead was the smart one.
You can never be too rich, too thin, or have too much ammo.
Truth. Once the tension releases in some of those spools, you have FDM filament that will never tighten up again. Ever used a weedwhacker with line feed problems? Same issue...You've clearly never done any fly fishing.
Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru)
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CAMaster Stinger CNC (25" x 36" x 5")
USCutter 24" LaserPoint Vinyl Cutter
Jet JWBS-18QT-3 18", 3HP bandsaw
Robust Beauty 25"x52" wood lathe w/everything
Jet BD-920W 9"x20" metal lathe
Delta 18-900L 18" drill press
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In my opinion the messiness of an SLA printer is all down to it's design. That's why I gravitate toward the Form1, it's resin trays have sealed covers and UV coating so you can store resin in the swappable trays without pouring back and forth into storage containers. It is still messier than FDM, especially because once printed you have to wash the finished piece in a finishing bath to remove excess resin.
My main reason for preferring Form1+ over FDM is resolution. You can get a much higher fine detail out of it.
[OP]
Member
So ihave ctc printer. Maker bot clone. I got 1 off ebay and it was bad, but the second. Replaced under warranty. The second one works great. It like pla better. Mainly due to the smell of abs. It gives me bad headaches. Although if i have to use abs i set up my vent system which works well. But i move my printer from place to place.
Redsail x700, 50watt & Shenhui 350, 50 watt
Member
I've used quite a number of different filaments, never had that kind of issue - at least not to the extent that it became a problem. I did have one spool of 3mm PLA that was wrapped around a ridiculously small 4" spool. The stiff PLA didn't want to come off the spool. Trying to re-roll onto a larger spool was a disaster because the PLA retained the original set. I think they spooled it before the PLA cooled sufficiently.
I don't do anything special to hold the ends of partially used spools, and they all work fine - except for that one PLA spool.
Shenhui 1440x850, 130 Watt Reci Z6
Gerber Sabre 408
Member
The DWS Labs printer also uses trays. I have compared the Form Labs and the DWS printer side by side - last year. The DWS prints were much higher quality than the Form Labs. If you need that kind of resolution, but not durability, then a resin printer is a good choice.
I certainly want a resin printer but it doesn't do anything I need it to. Even if I had one I would still use my filament printer most of the time because most things that I print need to durable.
Shenhui 1440x850, 130 Watt Reci Z6
Gerber Sabre 408
And something for you 3D printer folks to do with your laser
Blue - Etch 3/4 through your material
Yellow -Dotted. For standard Avery #8560 label
Orange/Red -Cut.
I used 3mm ply. Feel free to use whatever. No joints, so make it out of scrap anything.
Top tabs have 4 shapes for general filament classification (by feel), Square=ABS, Rounded=PLA, House=Nylon, Triangle=Other
CDR has master for adding new tab shapes to.
Cut. Use hot glue gun to add 4" or so sample. Print/Write and attach label. Hang on pegboard or on bucket containing said material for easy identification as to whats in the bucket.
I put the product name, color and print temperature rage on the label for reference.
These are set up for 3mm filament. If you use 1.5, scale the blue etch zone appropriately.
IMG_20150221_225415_SM.jpg
FilamentSampleHolders.11.zip
[SIZE=1]Generic Chinese 50w 300x500
Lulzbot TAZ 5 3D Printer
Corel X7, Photoshop CS6, Lightroom 4
Modo, Bryce, Poser
If You Can Read, Thank A Teacher. If You Can Read It In English, Thank A Veteran
That's what you do in a herd: you look out for each other. - Manny from Ice Age
Member
The XFAB looks very cool. I hadn't seen those before, will check them out.
[OP]
Member
What free programs do you use to design our objects?
I use Blender, and Netfabb.
Redsail x700, 50watt & Shenhui 350, 50 watt
Member
I don't use any free programs. I've been doing 3d in Lightwave and autoCAD for many years, they're still my go-to. I've heard great things about Autodesk's 123D line of free apps, but I haven't had time to try them properly yet.
http://usa.autodesk.com/autodesk-123d/
Member
SketchUp is another option.
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