Thanks everyone! the feet are not flat boards, I cut o curve out of the middle of each board, it just doesn't show in the picture. the bench top is attached with 4 lag bolt going through a short stretcher that is tenoned into the legs. My shop is tiny as you can see so the bench must be movable. I have shimmed the feet, no issue there. I will get to work on it and post the results... I guess angled legs might have been a good idea ! ?
Contributor
This is pretty much what I was thinking as well. I do not think the cantilever is overly large and I do not think it is the reason for your problemOriginally Posted by Tom Vanzant
Moderator
One thing that no one else has mentioned Matt is extending the stretchers and moving the right hand legs to the end of the bench which removes the cantilever from that end. This would have no impact on the location and use of your face vise. From your photo it appears you could pick up almost another 12" and thereby increase the stability. I also agree with Chris Hachet that the front legs should be flush with the front edge of the bench. You could either leave the rear legs recessed to allow full length clamping or make the rear legs flush too at your option. Between moving the right legs and making the front legs flush you would pick up quite a bit of stability.
Dave Anderson
Chester, NH
Member
I think the OP mentioned that mounting to a wall was out but I just wanted to add my 2 cents. I love having my benches attached to my walls. I get zero movement and I can make my benches out of lighter/cheaper material. What's a couple of holes in the wall of a shop matter? It's also pretty easy to put lags in your floor. The only issue I see is that you can't rearrange it easily. Choose a good spot, bolt it in and enjoy a rock solid bench.
Contributor
My initial thought was the physics -- base too short for the load applied across the top.
Might be able to keep things down with enough weight on a shelf.
Or maybe modify the base to provide a trapezoidal support. (e.g., have the back legs closer to the ends than the front legs)
Matt
Member
Not an expert by any means. Could the items you put in the vice have sufficient weight so as to be beyond the legs and start to tip the workbench?
Contributor
#1: Instead of full length pieces for feet, just add a square to the bottom of the legs. One at each outside corner. Doesn't take a whole lot of wood. It can eliminate any rocking though. Then, you could add a 4x4 inbetween the legs above the cross piece, for added weight.
#2: add a false bottomed shelf. It will look like a thick shelf, but is hollow on the inside. About like a box. Fill the inside with dry sand. Now the bench will weigh MORE near the feet than the top does. Harder to tip over that way.
Member
I have never see a bench with a flat board between the legs like you have. This will never work in mind, no matter how flat you may think everything is. Four legs are hard enough to get perfect and your floor never is, if you move it you'll most likely need to change shims somewhere. You could try adding some levelers at the four corners right under the legs along with some sand bags. Seems like it's most likely a weight to length ratio problem.
Does the bench rack when you're planing? I don't see anything in the design to counter it. It looks like a very nice bench and with a little tweaking I'm sure your going to be very happy with it.
Contributor
Oh, these type of legs do work, just need a set of "feet" added, is all
SDC15843.jpg
This is my bench, note the feet? 5/4 "pads" were added. About all that was needed. Bench is quite stable.
SDC15842.jpg
And my shop is even small thatn the OP's shop...
Member
Your bench has one major difference from the OPs bench - there is a brace between the front and back legs about a few inches above the bottom horizontal board. This should help eliminate front to back racking.
It's amazing what you can accomplish in the 11th hour, 59 minute of any project. Ya just have to keep your eye on the goal.
Contributor
I am a little late to this thread.
Here is my solution and it still works:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...ch-Hold-Steady
I have since used a small piece of rope to keep it from moving when the bench is moved.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Contributor
I would put 4" x 4" x 1/2" pads under the 4 bottom corners as the first step (or just get a set of heavy duty levelers.) Then, once you've got it shimmed to level with only 16 sq" of bearing surface, if you still find it to be unstable - then: 1st I would assure myself that the top/leg connections are solid. If not, they need to be made tight and solid. Lastly, pretty much any bench can be stiffened by the application of plywood (or hardwood panels) around the bottom. Just some thoughts ....
Member
I agree but I don't see those pads on the OPs bench.
Contributor
My suggestion to the OP was to add these pads to his bench's legs.
The stretcher between mine was merely to hold the legs still, until I got the feet done. I can also add a shelf between the ends.....someday....
Member
I always make my bottom boards out of 4x4s and cut a recess between the ends.
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