What finish for new saw tote?

[lowell holmes]

Stewie,

That's why I posted it. I will remember that about the lambs tongue. I see what you are saying. I will go back and work that area again.I was challenged when working that area.

I had another handle that I really liked better, but I messed it up. (imagine that )

I had a fixation about using the curly maple and was running out of that piece.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

On a saw handle there should be a visual separation of both face and end grain profile. You may wish to consider lightly flat sanding the faces of your handle with 400gt. The lambs tongue should also be tapering in thickness as it nears and then makes contact with the underside of the cheek.

In this post, Mr. Simpson demonstrates that he knows more about the names for the different parts of a saw handle. So, to help the ignorant (that means me), I annotated the parts of the saw handle. Now, lets see if I can upload the image.

Parts_of_a_saw_handle.jpg

Thanks for the comments Stewie, they were helpful for me.

[John Crawford]

After having a violin bridge sink all the way down to the bare wood in an experimental Tru Oil finish that was several months old before I strung the violin up,I worry about Tru Oil not really drying as hard as it might seem. I don't use it on instruments for fear that just laying in the case,the velvet lining might get stuck to it.

That is interesting about the Tru Oil. I wonder if the bottle was old?

I fool around with instruments (nothing near the level of what you do) and have used it to good effect on banjo necks. I think a few modern small-production makers use it on necks as well. Of course banjo necks aren't receiving the kind of pressure that a violin bridge creates.

I like it for small projects (again, amateur), tool handles, etc., as it is easy and forgiving.