Compound Miter Saw Station Ideas needed

[Scott Brandstetter]

Still expanding the shop......seems it will never be completed. Now working on a station for the miter saw. With my previous set up the saw fit perfectly in a half wall that was recessed and I never realized the room it takes. Now it will be up against a 15 ft straight wall and sticks out approx 30 inches. In the drawing, wondering what others have done with the space behind the fence to the left of the saw (20 x 60 area). In the past, it has just accumulated all kinds of scrap and crap.

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[Kent A Bathurst]

Mine is on top of a 16' table [longer infeed and outfeed than your plans]. With some creative engineering, I was able to clear-span that entire length, so under the CMS I have racks for rough lumber storage.

[Stew Hagerty]

I set this up when I remodeled my workshop. My Craftsman SCMS vacuum port doesn't work very well. So instead I built a very large enclosure behind it that tapers down to a 4" hose that I hook my DC to. It works very well, except I didn't allow quite enough room on the sides when it is angled & tilted at the same time. So I am going to cut a slot on each side. I bought some brush strips that I am going to put above & below facing each other that should allow the extension rods to pass through and yet not allow sawdust to pass through.
I have 7' to the right and 11' to the left. Anything longer and I'll have to use a handsaw or circular saw.


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[mike mcilroy]

One really nice set up I've seen is the whole top slides towards you and locks in if you need the slider, if not the table stays against the wall. Saves a few precious inches the whole length of the unit.

[Stew Hagerty]

I forgot to mention. 8 of the feet on the long side is a large storage cabinet/bench. I used drawers of varying size. I utilized 30" deep, 100lb capacity, over-extension slides. The top therefore is 8' long by 30" deep. The top is made from a lamination of 3/4" MDF on the top & bottom, with 23/33" Plywood in the middle. I used Titebond III for the lamination and I placed 1/4" replaceable Hardboard on top. I wrapped the edges with Red Oak and set it flush with the Hardboard. The top is very stiff so it makes an excellent secondary bench.

[mike mcilroy]

I forgot to mention under my saw there is one drawer for the tools and hold downs that came with the saw and under that a garbage can for cut offs. Above the saw you could put a lumber rack for long boards and small storage boxes on each side behind the fence for different species cut offs that are too good to toss or just small shelves for whatever.

[Scott Brandstetter]

Mike, I think this idea is perfect. Sure wish someone had some drawings for this. I am going to play around with this so thanks for the idea. If anyone is interested I can take pictures during the process.

Thanks again

One really nice set up I've seen is the whole top slides towards you and locks in if you need the slider, if not the table stays against the wall. Saves a few precious inches the whole length of the unit.

[mike mcilroy]

saw 1.jpgsaw 2.jpg
Scott
I found some pictures the link is to Fine Woodworking but unless you sign up its not very helpful. Maybe with more searching you can come up with it.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/works...miter-saw.aspx

Oops its not letting me browse my computer for pics. If you search space saving stand for a sliding compound miter saw on google images it gives you a pretty good idea. The great thing is the siding top will be good on any style cabinet.
Now it works.

[Tom M King]

Here are some pictures of the DC box I built around mine. It has a 6" port under the bottom. An ungated 3hp 4 bagger takes care of it, the tablesaw, and jointer with no dust in the air. I built this as a prototype to see how it worked, and it's work so well that I didn't go any farther. The dust director is "helped" a little bit with PVC pipe. At the back of the box, there is a 1/2" wide slot the whole width of the box that goes to a plenum underneath with the 6" hub. It works better than any other one I've ever seen. Absolutely no dust gets in the air.

Since I took these pictures, I've added a light on each side that shines down at the blade/board intersection on each side.

It's a tight fit at max swing in both directions, and the top is cut out to allow minimum clearance for the carrying handle in any position. I thought I might need to close various parts of it more, but tried it like this, and it works just fine.