Stanley Auger bits

[Daniel Rode]

Judson gave me a nice brace recently (thanks Judson!) and I've been trolling for bits. While Irwin and Jennings are the most recommended bits, I found a deal on a set of Stanley bits (127A) that look unused. They were cheap enough that I took a chance. I only had a couple of minutes to make up my mind, so hopefully I didn't waste my money.

I didn't find much information on Google about this set or Stanley bit in general. Do the Stanley bits work OK?

[Mike Holbrook]

Daniel, I would check out bits made by Wood Owl. I bought mine from Traditional Woodworker but they may be available from other sources. They actually make several types. The Nail Bitter is more of a rough bit made to, you guessed it cut through nails. The Ultra Smooth Auger Bits work much like a Irwin or Jennings but IMHO (in my humble opinion) they are stronger and work just as well in many older braces. The other bonus is in the 7 1/2" length they are available in sizes from 3/8"-1" for under $20 each. The only qualifier is the shafts are large & hexagonal, which may or may not fit well in specific older brace jaws. I have a couple braces in several different sizes and they fit well in most of what I have. I find the hole they make to be similar to the Irwins I also use. The Ultra Smooths have three spurs that make a neat start. As is the case with all auger bits, care is required to get a neat exit hole. Stopping as soon as the tip makes it through the far side of the work and drilling again from the other side does work if the user is very careful.

Another option is the Lee Valley "Greenwood Bits", look under drilling/specialty bits. LV has these bits made as a replacement for the Stanley Powerbore bits which are not made anymore and may be what the OP bought? I have not used these yet. I think I will get a chance at a course I am taking at Country Workshops next month. Drew Langsner apparently uses them for drilling holes in Windsor/ Stick Chair seats, arm rests and bows. Eventually I will probably have both. I think the LV bits will be better for starting and finishing holes as the long, non threaded, brad want pull the bit through the wood. The large heavy spurs should outline the hole well regardless of the angle the hole is drilled at. I may end up using both types of bit to drill single holes.

Another option for making braces more effective is to leave a hex bit holder in the chuck to facilitate quick and easy changes between: screw driving bits, drill bits, tapered tenon cutters, nut drivers.... Again some braces may not hold all hex bit holders, but hex bit holders are available with a number of different shafts, even the older tapered square shafts.

[Daniel Rode]

Thanks Mike. For now, the Wood Owls or the Greenwood are more than I want spend to get started. I bought an entire set for what one Wood Owl bit would cost and I'm hoping they are a decent enough quality to experiment with.

I haven't tried a hex shaft in my brace yet. I'll have to give it a shot and see how they work.

[Kees Heiden]

I would be surprised if the Stanley ones weren't perfectly allright. When they cut badly you just need to sharpen them. I have a Swedish set (forgot the name) and they are great after sharpening.

When I first started with brace and auger I tried to drill a hole with a very dull 19 mm bit and actually managed to snap it in two pieces!

[Daniel Rode]

I bought a auger bit file today for just that very reason. It's cost half as much as I paid for the bits. Everything works better when sharp

[Steve Voigt]

Dan,

I haven't used the Stanleys, but I've looked at a couple sets, and they look fine to me. I would go ahead and use them, and not pay any attention to people urging you to buy expensive new bits; as you correctly observe, a whole vintage set can sometimes be found for the price of one new bit. Save your money. And anyway, the wood owl bits all say "intended for use in a power drill."

It's a definite plus that yours look unused; in my experience the main problem with buying old bits is that they have sometimes been bent or incorrectly sharpened by ham-handed previous owners.

I would try them right out of the box, and they may be ready to work, but don't be surprised if they're not sharp enough initially. Just touch them up with the auger file and go to town.

On a more general note, I'd encourage anyone to look outside the "most recommended" brands when shopping for vintage hand tools. You don't have to have a 42x saw set, Jennings bits, Swan chisels, etc. Last week, I picked up a brand of chisel I'd never heard of for a great price. Turned out to be one of the finest chisels I've ever owned. It's so good, I'm not divulging the brand until I collect a whole set!

[Jim Koepke]

The Stanley bits should be fine. Some of mine are the early Stanley/Russell Jennings, some are the later Stanley/Handyman brand. They all work when sharpened correctly.

Here is something of mine from a few years back:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...t-About-Augers

There is plenty more than this to know, but it should give you a start.

jtk

[Steve Voigt]

Here is something of mine from a few years back:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...t-About-Augers

There is plenty more than this to know, but it should give you a start.

jtk

Excellent tutorial, Jim. Anyone getting started with auger bits should read it.

[Mike Holbrook]

Actually not trying to get anyone to pony up for expensive drill bit sets, I didn't. I am not here to try to convince anyone to buy anything, just trying to provide what information I have run across that might have some value for other posters.

I spent quite a while on auctions sites bidding on Irwin and Jennings sets. What I ended up with was incomplete sets for more $ than what Daniel apparently spent. I have purchased a few Wood Owls in specific sizes I needed for specific work making chairs. The main reason for my post was/is the prices I see vendors selling nock off replacements for Irwin/Jennings sets for. The prices I see for replacement bits for some of the older auger sets are much higher than the price for individual Wood Owl bits and I think the Wood Owls are probably a better bit. I ended up buying an old inexpensive set of Jennings bits just to try them out. The shanks were broken on several bits. I broke the shank of another bit in one of my old sets and I have discovered that several others do not work well because they have bent shanks. I believe broken/bent shanks are not an uncommon problem with the older bits. The shanks on the Wood Owls are much stronger. It also seems to me that whether or not a specific auger bit will work in a power drill and a brace is a significant factor for most posters.

I talked to Traditional Woodworker about the statement they have on their site concerning Wood Owl bits being "intended for use in power drills", before I bought my bits, after I read a post on Chris Schwarz's Blog discussing using the Wood Owl Nail Bitters. I was told the statement is there because they are aware that there are many different types of braces with many different chucks. Some of those chucks want work with some types of drill shanks. Traditional Woodworker, as I understand it, does not want to be faced with people returning used bits because they do not work in their power drill or brace. Either the bit fits in a chuck or it doesn't. I'm just saying that the Wood Owls I have fit in several different Millers Falls and Stanley braces I have and work very well. I bought my Wood Owls for a specific use that can be accomplished with a power drill or brace. The fact that they work so well in my braces is simply a fact I thought might be of interest.

[Kim Malmberg]

I have a Swedish set (forgot the name) and they are great after sharpening

Kees, I think you are thinking of the C.I. Fall bits made in Eskilstuna.

[Daniel Rode]

Mike,

I personally found your post really informative. While I'm not buying Wood Owls or the Greenwoods now, knowing about them may be useful in the future. I'm inclined to search for a deal on vintage tools whenever possible. I'm frugal but not cheap to a fault (I hope)

[Doug Trembath]

Actually, it's nice to hear from both camps. Jim did his usual fine job on his article. Hope it remains available here. Mike shared a good bit of info, but it was more clear in the second post. I really appreciate the active sharing , and hope others do, as well, so it continues...

Doug Trembath

[Mike Holbrook]

It is hard to make a post that covers a topic without getting wordy. In order to clarify the information I was hoping to impart, I thought I would take another stab at one post with more complete information. I tried to remove the other two.

I understand the OP's desire to not over pay for bits, because that was my original plan in buying a used set of Irwin pattern auger bits. I have found that replacing old bits can get expensive though. Just like with chisels, the most effective, least expensive long term policy might be to buy what is needed as it is needed and not invest in those seductive sets. It is also very nice to have bits and bit holders that will work in both powered drills and braces, which is my current strategy. I have found this to be the case with the Wood Owl bits, although there are braces with chucks that will not hold certain shafts, just like some power drill chucks will not hold certain shafts. My strategy in a do over would be to buy a few better/stronger large auger bits and not pay for the more fragile smaller sizes.

Checking the Traditional Woodworker site, they offer both Irwin and Jennings "pattern" new bits for braces. A set of 7 Irwin pattern bits is $104.95. A set of 7 Jennings pattern bits is $311.95. Irwin pattern 3/8 or 1/2" single bits are $16.95. Single 3/8 or 1/2" Jennings pattern bits are $40.95. Tools For Making Wood offers the 1/2" single Jennings pattern bits for $35.95. The newer Wood Owl bits, also available at Traditional Woodworker, are made in Japan of tougher more precisely manufactured steel. Wood Owl 3/8 or 1/2" Nail Chipper bits are $12.95. The Ultra Smooth Tri Spur Wood Owls in single 3/8 or 1/2" bits are $15.95. I have one Wood Owl Nail Chipper bit, it makes a rough hole especially when used in a brace. The Nail Chippers are fine for construction or rough work, used in a powered drill, as they work fast but they may be too rough for fine woodworking.

I'm not sure why the Jennings pattern bits are more popular with many people. I believe I have read that some think they make a neater hole or remove waste easier although opinions vary. My experience is the Irwin pattern bits are sturdier with their solid center posts. I think they clear wood chips better than the Jennings. The Jennings are more like a continuos ribbon and may be more subject to breaking. I originally bought a used set of Irwin bits that I was able to get at a fraction of the cost of Jennings sets. I later found what I thought was a good deal on a small set of Jennings bits and bought it to see first hand how they worked. I discovered when they arrived that three of the large bits in the Jennings set had the piece that mounts in the drill/brace broken off. I have also discovered that a couple of my Irwin bits are bent enough to cause issues. I determined I liked the Irwin pattern bits better for my work. Although, I did break the shaft of one of my smaller used Irwin pattern bits in tough wood.

If I had it to do over, I would probably buy 4-5 larger size Ultra Smooth Wood Owls (3/8"-3/4 or 1") and stick to home center hex drill bits and brad points in smaller sizes up to 1/4". I think in the long run this would provide the best drill bits for the least money. Lee Valley, Highland Woodworking and other woodworking stores offer quick change bit holders that fit in many braces and power drills. Wera Rapidator Bit Holders are a good example. There are even quick change bit holders for Yankee style drills & screw drivers. Another option is older style auger bit shafts with hex adapters. A brace that can switch between drill bits, all sorts of screw driving patterns and hex shank sockets is a very powerful/versatile tool. It may be worth having a few braces just to have a selection of chucks available, used braces are not usually expensive. Some brace/hand drill chucks will even hold plain standard/round bit shafts.

[Kees Heiden]

Kees, I think you are thinking of the C.I. Fall bits made in Eskilstuna.

Yes that's the name! Last I looked they were regularly available overhere.

[Judson Green]

You're very welcome, Daniel! Glad it's got a great home.