Tool corrosion in ply wall cabinet?

[ian maybury]

The die is to a degree cast in that i've built a fairly traditional shelved out wall cabinet with two fold out front doors to store mostly planes and chisels in 18mm Eastern ply. (the reddish coloured variety) The aim was to create an enclosed space capable of being heated with a lightbulb or the air within dried using a dessicant or similar - to help organise the tools, but also to provide an extra layer of protection beyond genralised workshop heating to get over the fairly frequent cold snaps we experience in winter.

Cold for us that is - maybe a degree or two below freezing. The problem arises when high humidity warm air moves in a quickly after a freeze - tools can end up coated in condensation

Some seem to consider that there is a corrosion risk as a result of acids and gases emitted from wood. It'd definitely be a risk with e.g. oak, but is plywood likely to be problematical?

I'd appreciate hearing your views on good practice in this situation - finishes, shelf coverings/liners, good long life anti corrosion devices (chemical vs. heat?) There's been some historic threads, but the views seem quite mixed, and relate mostly to solid wood cabinets.

Thanks

[Robert Norman]

FWIW I use bull frog strips in a metal tool chest in the Houston area in a fairly exposed shed (sounds like similar weather issues). It works well enough for me so far.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/b...pspackof6.aspx

[ian maybury]

Thanks Robert. Seems like it's not a high risk/priority issue anyway….

[george wilson]

I have used piano heating rods in my gun case. They get hot to the touch,but not dangerously hot. Hot enough to heat enclosed cabinets . One will do.

[ian maybury]

Thank George. Guess the big benefit of a cabinet is the ability to create a micro climate inside it. With a little heating, or dessicant pads or whatever.

My main concern was the possibility of corrosion causing interreactions between wood and metal. Sounds like it's not a significant issue, as lots would no doubt have experienced it otherwise. Suspect oak is probably better avoided.

I'd seen mention of the possibility elsewhere, and was wondering if there might be a real issue...

[James W Glenn]

The only problems I have seen are from red oak and its sawdust.

[Stew Denton]

Ian,

I don't believe that acids and gasses emitted by the lumber will be the problem. There should be almost no corrosive gasses, things like formic and acetic acid are probably present in such low concentrations that I don't believe they would contribute much to corrosion.

The bigger concern is when the sole of the plane might set against something, where the wood can leach corrosive materials directly against something like be sole of the plane, especially a lumber like the red oak mentioned above. To reduce this concern, a coat of relatively impervious finish will help minimize this potential. Perhaps a coat of finishing oil, like BLO or something similar, followed by two or three coats of urethane or better yet Spar.

A second concern is saw dust or sanding dust from lumbers like the aforelisted red oak.

The big concern, however, seems likely to be the condensation you mentioned. I use wax, formerly used car wax, but now use Johnsons Paste Wax, after a post here on SMC. That said, I live in dry windy country in the Texas panhandle. Some of the guys in really humid areas actually use different types of oil, which they believe to be much better than wax.

Stew

[ian maybury]

Thanks guys. The cabinet which will be well sealed using a water based acrylic intended for floor finishing, and is not oak. I've had good luck so far with Renaissance Wax and camellia oil. The risk is is frost followed by a high humidity warm front. The workshop is heated, but it's scary just how much condensation can drop out on to heavy metal items without the heat, and easy to boob and not run the heating. Hence the cabinet as an extra insurance...

One thought was that it might be advisable to line the shelves using a plastic drawer liner or similar, but it sounds that it's at least not essential.

[Kent A Bathurst]

You could put down a thins strip of some wood like maple - ley the plane toes sit on it, so the planes are at a slight angle above the flat surface. Keeps them from direct flat contact with a surface.

[Jim Belair]

One thought was that it might be advisable to line the shelves using a plastic drawer liner or similar, but it sounds that it's at least not essential.

Before I built my wall tool cabinet I stored my tools in a metal machinists chest. I had plastic shelf lining at got some corrosion only where tools contacted the plastic.

[ian maybury]

Ta guys. You never know with these things Jim - the devil is always in the detail. It does sound like it's probably advisable to stand metal off a surface a shade Kent - so that the air can circulate. A non acidic/corrosive wood strip should have the advatage that (unlike plastic) it will wick away any moisture between the points of contact...

[Paul Sidener]

I could be reading this wrong, could it be a lubrication problem? I don't have much trouble, and it gets quite humid and cold here at times. It was below zero this week. I just make sure my tools are oiled with Camellia Oil or Johnson Paste Wax. If the tools are enclosed inside of a cabinet, there will likely be very little condensation. I would think the condensation would be on the outside of the cabinet. Like I said, I don't have problems with tools stored in cabinets or chests. Tools left out could be a problem. The table saw and drill press come to mind. I keep them oils and covered as best I can, and still get some rust.

[ian maybury]

Hi Paul. There's no problem as such. What you say is more or less the concensus. Just enquiring after possibilities since the tools are going in a wall mounted cabinet in the next few days...