Assmebly table input requested

[Carl Weber]

All I am about to build an assembly table and was wondering what others have done. Space in not really an issue. I plan on building it 49 x 97 (MDF dia.) and about 28" high to the table top. I will attach a drawing. Please let me know any experiences thoughts you might have on this matter. Thank you in advance.

Assembly table-Model.pdf

[Keith Weber]

My assembly table is a second hand Southworth scissor lift table that I've yet to find the time to get around to making a torsion box top for. It's on the list, which is a very long list, mind you. My thoughts were that I could vary the height depending on what I'm working on.

I looked at your design, and my concern would be sag over time on an 8-foot span. Being that the legs go all the way up to the top, I'm making the assumption that it is not a torsion box top, but rather a single sheet of MDF on a wooden support grid. I'd consider adding two more legs in the middle, or make a storage cabinet base out of 3/4" ply, which would add more support. Even then, I'd probably still make it a 6-legger given the 8-foot length.

[Mike Schuch]

It is nice to have a built in 90 degree guide on two perpendicular top edges. This makes it a lot easier to assemble face frames and keep them square without having to pull out a framing square every two minutes.

It would also be nice to have a good reference 90 degree guide from horizontal to vertical with a nice wood working vice on the vertical plane.

I would also recommend having enough overhang on the edges to be able to clamp in a fair distance from the edge.

Holes for bench dogs / hold down clamps? You would probably need one or two sheets of 3/4" plywood under the mdf to give the dogs/clamps enough table depth to bite into.

Easy accessible bar clamp storage under the table?

Adjustable feet to level the top?

I always thought the perfect assembly table would be an old optical bench with the aluminum top drilled and tapped every 1".

I would also consider how to keep glue squeeze-out from sticking to the mdf top.

[Loren DeShon]

I built the portable assembly table from the October 2011 issue of Wood Magazine. I sized it for my space and have been very happy with it.

I put a melamine top in it and inlet it for Rockler t-track, which I also like.

Good luck.

[Justin Ludwig]

28" is too short for me, but I'm 6'3". Make sure your back is comfortable working at that height. I would inset the legs 4" both directions for corner clamping capability. Laminate or multiple coats of polyurethane on the top will help durability (and glue squeeze out).

[Jim Dwight]

My assembly tables are about 1/4 shorter than my table saw and are used for outfeed support. I threw one away when I moved and now need to build another. Space is an issue for me and I am planning a 3 foot by 6 foot table with drawers under it on rolling, locking casters. The top will be of the Paulk configuration (google Ron Paulk) and may be removable for use outside the shop on saw horses. I like Ron's ideas. He has a bunch of u-tube videos showing how to make and use his stuff.

[Carl Weber]

Thank you for all the great input. I may need to make some changes. I was thinking the top to be (2) sheets of 3/4" MDF for the top with 2" x 4" supports spanning the short distance... every 15 (ish) inches. But I did not take in the consideration of clamping to the table. I should have thought of that as I do it all the time on my temporary assembly table (Extension table for my saw). Well I Will have to do some touch up on the drawing. Also I planned on using Brown construction paper to avoid glue squeeze out. I like the Idea of a few coats of poly on the top.

[Jim Becker]

The single most important advice I'll give you relative to an assembly table is that you will be best served long-term if it's height adjustable...unless you only make one kind of thing which would be unusual. Adjustable height, no matter how you pull that off, will make for a more comfortable and efficient working environment as you pull your projects together. And sometimes "simple" is best. Using four rectangular boxes for supporting a torsion box surface makes for three separate heights that can be tailored to your project types and it also makes it easy to put the assembly-assembly, as it were, away when you really need that floor space for a big project or other purposes.

You'll note I mentioned a torsion box surface. Why? Flat is very, very important for assembly and that's the best way to get there without a huge amount of weight.

[Jim Andrew]

I used a Harbor Freight motorcycle lift table as the base for my assembly table. So I can raise or lower it as needed when I am assemblying boxes. Found I can put a chair next to it, and lower the table to make it right for assembling drawers. Made the top about 3' wide, and about 7' long. Used some heavy T track on 2 edges to use with Kreg clamps assembling face frames. Found a site on ebay that sells the heavy extrusions.

[Carl Weber]

The advice is awesome. But that means a redesign. All the replies made are spot on. I think I have a good idea for the adjustable height. I will have to draw it up. Once I have it drawn I will post for additional .....advise.

[Don Jarvie]

I have my table in the center of the shop attached to the TS so it serves as my outfeed table also. Since my shop is 20x20 I don't have a ton of room. It's basically 6x8 with 2 sheets of MDF for a top.

To add storage I built cabinets underneath the table and installed outlets on each side for power tools. I also ran power to my TS. I have a wood floor so it was easy to do.

[Carl Weber]

I have an extension table on my TS also and I am using it for an assembly table.....and I have to move everything when I need to make a cut.... so it is time to use more floor space. I have the luxury of a bit more room as my shop is 30x40 purpose built. I am in the process of setting everything up now.

[Scott Brandstetter]

Carl
I am getting ready to build an assembly table as well so I have "lurked" on this thread. In regards to the adjustable height, I am thinking about using the harbor freight hydraulic table lift as the means to get the table adjustable. Will have to modify the release handle (I'm think 10 speed bike brake cable) and the foot step to raise the table (black pipe or something similar). Just thought I'd pass this idea on to you.

[Carl Weber]

Scott. I am thinking of making a scissors mechanism moved by a linear actuator (have a few laying around). I am thinking this will be pretty easy to pull off. (alot cheaper also). it will have a forward and reverse to raise and lower. I am working on a drawing for this.

[Scott Brandstetter]

Carl, will be very interested to see your drawings. I am all about easier and cheaper. Another tip, I went ahead and ordered a couple of cabinet vises from Grizzly. I have to say that these things are massive. I'm not sure what makes one vise better than another but holy cow, these seem great, especially for the price. I plan to put one on the short and long sides of table.