Bottle stoppers?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

A friend asked me to turn him a few bottle stoppers.

If you are turning wood bottle stoppers, what are you using for a finish?

I hate to use shellac or friction polish as both are susceptible to damage by alcohol.

In the past I used linseed oil to pop the grain, followed by a couple fractioned coats of de-waxed shellac with a finish of several coats of Deft brushing lacquer fractioned on.

I have been experimenting with CA and have been getting good results but to me it feels more like a plastic finish that even the lacquer does.

Any suggestions or ideas?

[Stan Calow]

Ken I tried several things, ended up preferring rattle can lacquer if you want a glossy look.

[Doug Herzberg]

When I've done bottle stoppers, I've usually used rattle can lacquer because there's usually a deadline. No one complains, but that's the way it often is with gifts. I don't think I've ever seen one after giving it away. If you've got the CA down, that's even faster. I think lacquer has more depth, but that may just be because I haven't perfected my CA technique.

[Scott Hackler]

Minwax Tung Oil Finish for a semi gloss soft glow (after buffed) and rattle can lacquer for shiny (and a faster recoat).

And of course I will only use Ruth Niles' stainless stoppers.

[Steve Peterson]

I just used friction polish for the few that I have made. Neither my wife or mom have complained. I like the idea of rattle can lacquer better.

If you haven't purchased the stoppers yet, make sure to get stainless steel ones. The chrome plated ones apparently corrode in alcohol. The SS ones only cost an extra buck or two.

I used a grade 8 bolt in a collet as a mandrel.

Steve

[Marvin Hasenak]

2 coats of Daly's Tung Oil and then a coat of spar varnish. As long as they don't stick them in the dishwasher they last a long, long time. My professional wine drinkers prefer the ugly silicone stoppers over the fancy high dollar stainless steel. These are freebies that I give away, and they get the choice of what they want. NO point tops either, they want the stopper to be comfortable.

[Russell Neyman]

I'm surprised more people haven't suggested what the pen guys use: CA glue. It goes on quickly, sands well, and polishes better than lacquer. Best of all, it takes a beating. Anticipating the first questions I always get about this, two or three thin coats, sanded with 400 grit, polished with the Beall System. I use Q-Tips for application.

[Dan Hintz]

I'm surprised more people haven't suggested what the pen guys use: CA glue. It goes on quickly, sands well, and polishes better than lacquer. Best of all, it takes a beating. Anticipating the first questions I always get about this, two or three thin coats, sanded with 400 grit, polished with the Beall System. I use Q-Tips for application.

Ken said he already tried CA. Me, I'm a fan of the method and is what I would use in your case. If you don't mind the look but don't want the hassle, use an acrylic blank... all of the benefits with half of the work.

[John Brown]

Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil Gun Stock Finish. This what I use. I like it.

[Marty Tippin]

I mostly use a CA finish. Watch Cap'n Eddie's video and use his technique https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRXSkmTJ4Pw - it really improved my results; I had been using a medium thick glue originally; went to super-thin and wow, what a difference. I do have an issue with the fumes, however, and you have to be careful that you don't get burned when the thin stuff "goes off" in the paper towel...

After the CA finish, I sand using "Acrylic Sanding Pads" from Arizona Silhouette http://www.arizonasilhouette.com/product/BG114.html and buff using either my Beall buff or the Acrylic buffing system also from Arizona Silhouette http://www.arizonasilhouette.com/product/BG012.html

Yes, it's a "plastic" looking finish but folks really seem to like the deep shine and it really brings out the grain of the wood. And it's all but bullet proof when you're done.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I also use Ruth's stoppers. My $0.02 would be to epoxy the stopper wood part (what is that called?) onto the stopper. I do that to prevent any water and mold/fungus from getting under the stopper, and eventually discoloring/ruining it. I've been using CA, but I'll have to agree that "regular" oils and finishes look better. CA is super durable, and that why I changed.

[Stan Smith]

I'm also interested in a lasting finish on whatever I do. I've been using 50-50 lacquer thinner and Deft gloss. I apply 4 coats on the lathe at about 3K. I buff with a soft non-lint cloth after about 1.5 minutes. I use this on pens and bottle stoppers. Although I use Deft gloss, the finish does not come out like plastic at all. YMMV

[Scott Lux]

I've sold a couple hundred stoppers. Almost all are done with CA. Only one has come back marred. It was put in the dishwasher! But, I also use spray on polycrylic, and sometimes tung oil. Depends on need for speed, and desired shine.

[Pat Scott]

I haven't sold a couple hundred like Scott, but I do like a finish that is fast and can be applied on the lathe. When I take the stopper off the lathe I want it to be 100% done so I can move on to the next one. I've used Friction Polish, Shellac with wax (which is pretty much what a friction polish is anyway), Lacquer Sanding Sealer, and rattle can lacquer.

Others can share their opinion, but I wouldn't worry about damage from alcohol. The bottle stopper would have to be soaking in alcohol for a period of time before it reacted with the finish. At least that's what I read on the Internet - and we all know you can't put stuff on the internet that isn't true!
My personal stoppers that I made years ago and are thrown in a drawer afterwards show no signs of the finish failing.

[Rich Harkrader]

We have a small box on top of the fridge of bottle stoppers I've turned, all finished with friction polish. They see pretty regular use and show no signs of damage.