Eight years ago I purchased a GE gas (go figure) hot water heater with a life time GE warranty. Got it at the HD and it wasn't all that expensive. Installed it myself, no big deal. Just be sure to use dialectic couplings if you plumb with copper.
Eight years ago I purchased a GE gas (go figure) hot water heater with a life time GE warranty. Got it at the HD and it wasn't all that expensive. Installed it myself, no big deal. Just be sure to use dialectic couplings if you plumb with copper.
NOW you tell me...
Contributor
Sorry for not answering sooner. If you install batteries and before installing on live water system, 1) use the test button on control unit, 2) just put water on control board. The defects were valve did not close or open, the valve or the control unit itself or found weak batteries. After installing you can use the test button to close the valve also.
Bob
Contributor
Thanks, Bob.Originally Posted by Bob Coates
Member
Switched from oil heat to gas a while back. My tankless heater(80k btu) uses 14 cents of gas a day compared to 600$ a year on oil. Also installed a 3 stage hi-eff furnace, and the biggest heat pump Carrier makes. All cost $18k but got back $5k in rebates
Epilog 24TT(somewhere between 35-45 watts), CorelX4, Photograv(the old one, it works!), HotStamping, Pantograph, Vulcanizer, PolymerPlatemaker, Sandblasting Cabinet, and a 30 year collection of Assorted 'Junque'
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I replaced my last standard gas heater with an AO Smith, glass lined tank.
You can put as many shutoffs in line as you like, if the tank develops a perforation,
all 75 gallons will find their way out.
I don't recommend installing this yourself, unless money is seriously tight.
If the heater is 15 years old, so are the pipes and fittings.
Something unexpected will fail in copper pipe and you won't have the necessary part.
That will happen at the end of the weekend install, when your plumbing supplier is closed.
This isn't like a toilet bathroom remodel, where you have a backup system.
That, and you'll still have to dispose of the old tank.
This is one of those jobs that has less labor than materials involved.
Hire the plumber.
Contributor
I had a new gas water heater put in when my house was remodeled last fall. (Previous water heater was electric and 82 gallons.) It cost me $2,000 which I thought was really steep. The plumber did move the water heater to the other side of the utility room as part of the project. He also had to put in a PVC exhaust as none existed.
I believe I'll save enough over 10 years to pay for the water heater. The electric bill previously was over $3,600 a year or an average of over $300 a month for electric baseboard heat and electric water heater. I also replaced the electric heat with forced air gas heat. Winter electric bill was over $500 a month and my highest gas and electric bill this winter has been $170. Total bill to install gas forced air heat with central air and new gas water heater was $25,000. I think I will save enough on utility bills to pay for the entire project by the time the furnace needs replacement. I should save over $1,800 a year in utility costs.
Contributor
Hi Chris,
What do you think of your water heater now that you have had it for 2 1/2 years ? Has anyone else bought a hybrid water heater?
Moderator
I'll assume that question is pointed at me, Scott. You might want to click on "reply with quote" when replying to a specific post within the thread.
So far so good with the HPWH (heat pump water heater) although I do have an issue...perhaps a serious one and that is rust or corrosion.
The heat pump draws water out of the air it sucks in as it extracts the heat. There is a tray that connects to some pipes outside the WH that drain it away. I think one of the problems I have is that my WH is not installed perfect level since my WH is in the garage. This allows some water to remain in the tray as the drain point is no longer the lowest point. Since there is a fan hooked to the front of the 'radiator', it tends to pick up the water and blow it around. Many things/items/parts/etc. in that area are all rusting. I also have drips running down the side of the tank that show little rust lines. I haven't removed the top tank cover in a while and I shudder to do so but I fear I may have issue some day. So far, so good...it works like a champ but I wonder for how much longer. There is ZERO mention in the manual about ensuring the tank be made level. I sure wish there had been something as I could have addressed it during the installation. But now that it is installed, it is A LOT more painful to fix it but I do need to.
Another issue and one that I think folks online have mentioned: poor exterior paint and quality control of it. There are little blisters/bubbles of paint all over the tank with rust popping through and it came that way one brand new from the factory. Since the water tank is plastic, I'm not worried about it leaking but this is unfortunate to get such a bad paint job.
Last edited by Chris Padilla; 04-01-2016 at 2:01 PM.
Contributor
Just an additional comment: I put in a tankless water heater several years ago and it's been wonderful. No problems at all and my gas bill is much lower since I don't have to keep a tank of water hot. Also, I never run out of hot water.
One maintenance issue is that you need to flush them annually with vinegar to remove any calcium build up in the tubes.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
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Prashun,
We went with a Rinnai tankless NG water heater a few years back when our old gas water heater went down. It has turned out to be one of the "best decisions" in awhile. We have family (read 15-20) people visiting occasionally for a long weekend. We used to run out of hot water all the time. Between dishwasher and grandkids diapers/clothes, everyone showering, etc. we were constantly having to wait for reheat of old gas water heater.
NOT anymore, this Rinnai really does the job.....ALL DAY LONG!
The dealer can help with sizing the heater for your capacity needs.
Jim
Contributor
Thanks Chris. I did not know any of the hybrids had plastic tanks. The new A.O.Smith hybrids have anodes, so they must not be plastic. I will take your advice and look into everything you mentioned.
Mike
I have electric, no gas. I looked into the tankless. The electric tankless uses 3 double 40 amp breakers. Having an all electric house and a shop full of tools is already pushing the limit of my 200 amp service.
Moderator
I recently replaced a 20 year old 50 gallon gas unit. It cost $1200 for a Rheem includng installation and haul-away of the old unit. there is a new code in our area which requires some type of a safety pop-off device. It fits in the water line immediately above the water heater and resembles a small propane tank. I considered all the units and then went with the recommendation of my plumber who does all my work.
Mike Null
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Both of our water heaters remain high efficiency natural gas fired tankless units. I'd never go back to a tank type system...
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Contributor
Prashun, Rheem is the brand plumbers have told me they would use if they can. Ours is from American (that's the brand name made in Tennesee) But I think the one thing to look for is a brass drain valve, not a plastic one. Plastic ones seem to get jammed easily. Yeah I think they are self-installable - I just avoid plumbing after a few disasters. Plus you have to get rid of the old one.
Gas is better than electric because they will work in power outage.
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