Jointer Roller?

[chase standifer]

I am trying to work on my jointer technique focusing on transferring pressure to the outfeed table as soon as possible. I still have trouble sometimes not pushing down on the back push pad will feeding the stock forward resulting in thinner boards never really getting flat.

Has anyone ever seen or tried a roller directly on the outfeed side of the blades to keep that pressure consistent as the board comes off of the blades?

[Ian Scofield]

Seems no different than using a power feeder. I've seen a couple setups like that. But it seems like putting a bandaid on the problem. Better to learn the technique then try and fix it by adding more pieces.

[Mike Schuch]

How long is the stock you are jointing? How long is your jointer bed? There is a practical limit to the length of stock a particular length of bed will handle easily. I usually rough cut my boards to length before jointing even with a relatively long bed on my 8" jointer.

[David Linnabary]

I am trying to work on my jointer technique focusing on transferring pressure to the outfeed table as soon as possible. I still have trouble sometimes not pushing down on the back push pad will feeding the stock forward resulting in thinner boards never really getting flat.

Has anyone ever seen or tried a roller directly on the outfeed side of the blades to keep that pressure consistent as the board comes off of the blades?

I guess one of the most essential things to keep in mind in your first passes is that you don't want to push down so hard that you distort the shape of the stock as this defeats what you're trying to accomplish. Sometimes it helps to understand what you're accomplishing with each pass, I would suggest making some chalk marks on the face that you're jointing then having a look after each pass to see what's actually happening. This should help you adjust your technique. I always feel like the first few passes are something of a balancing act on the high corners.

I'm probably not the most orthodox in my own technique, often I will evaluate a board and do different things as I progress. On severely twisted stock, I've been known to start jointing from the center of the length and joint the trailing end a few passes to establish a more stable surface then turning the board end for end and and repeat on the other end for a few passes, afterwards making full length passes is much easier and I get better results.

David

[Mike Cutler]

Chase

You are trying too hard. Relax and let the machine do it's job.
It's not so much that the front hand is "pushing down", but only adding enough pressure to keep the material in contact with the table surface and fence. You're just trying to slide the board over the cutter head, not force it down.
The only thing my rear hand is doing is maintaing material contact with the fence and guiding the board.

[Larry Edgerton]

I'm probably not the most orthodox in my own technique, often I will evaluate a board and do different things as I progress. On severely twisted stock, I've been known to start jointing from the center of the length and joint the trailing end a few passes to establish a more stable surface then turning the board end for end and and repeat on the other end for a few passes, afterwards making full length passes is much easier and I get better results.

David

I thought everyone did this. That is part of the reason that a feeder does not work on a jointer except on reasonably straight stock. If you did this same board with a feeder it will be a wedge when done.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Chase

You are trying too hard. Relax and let the machine do it's job.
It's not so much that the front hand is "pushing down", but only adding enough pressure to keep the material in contact with the table surface and fence. You're just trying to slide the board over the cutter head, not force it down.
The only thing my rear hand is doing is maintaing material contact with the fence and guiding the board.

Yep. ALso - be sure you keep your tables waxed - reduces down-force needed to push it fwd. And - use one of those flat friction-type push pads in your forward hand - better friction than just your hand, so also requires less down-force.

On shorter items, once there is 10" +/- on the outfeed side, I am apt to let go with my trailing hand.

On longer items, once I get past midpoint, I am apt to move my trailing hand to the outfeed side, so I have two hands there. When I am going to do this, I put a second friction pad on the board and let it ride along, so it is there to grab when I move my trailing hand fwd. This also lets me "walk" my hands so I can keep the board moving at as steady pace across the cutterhead, without pausing, and without pressing down on the infeed side.

[chase standifer]

Thanks for all the advice gentlemen. I'm not jointing anything incredibly long by any means, I think I may just be pushing down too hard trying to keep the stock moving forward, wax will definitely help.