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Thread: Hammer B3 information

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    Rod, I hadn't thought about the shorter fence and no outrigger so I see your point in a small workshop which fortunately mine is not. If the outrigger is removed and the longer fence is all you have I don't see the point. The question then arises, if you use an F&F jig how do you manage without the fence on the out feed end of the sliding table.
    Hi Chris, in my shop the crosscut fence sticks out into the drill press and bandsaw areas.

    Removing it allows for shop space, and of course if you're ripping something longer than the slider stroke you need to remove it then............Rod.

  2. #32
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    Feb 2004
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    What is the "shorter fence"? Link?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    The question then arises, if you use an F&F jig how do you manage without the fence on the out feed end of the sliding table.
    I came across a picture where someone just put a piece of multiplex clamp-screwed to the T-groove in front end and then the Fritz und Franz jig. Just as with a fence.
    (I can't seem to find the photo now...)

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    (GTA) Greater Toronto Area
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    when ripping narrow pieces with outrigger on, I lock the slider and simply angle the fence away from the blade so material can move past it. For wider boards I remove the fence and outrigger, partly because of my narrow space, but so I can walk around to back of the saw without the obstruction of fence and outrigger. There is one small issue I have with the cast tables short depth, control of narrow boards at front and boards falling off back of the saw. I believe there is an outfeed extension table available.

  5. #35
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    Oct 2005
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    Helensburgh, Australia
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    Joel, you never use an F&F jig?

    Fedde, do you have an arrangement to square the stop to the blade when it is mounted to the table or do you manually do that each time. A photo of your stop would be nice.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--M-Iz2pw1k



    Derek, the short and long fences being referred to are supplied with the saw depending on how it is configured at purchase and there is an extension you can buy for both that slides into the parent fence so as to not make the fence any longer if it is not in use. The short fence is what you have and is fitted when the outrigger is not ordered, the long fence comes with the outrigger. I have both because I retrofitted the out rigger.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    Joel, you never use an F&F jig?
    No, I have never used one. What am I missing?

  7. #37
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    Oct 2005
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    Helensburgh, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joel Wesseling View Post
    No, I have never used one. What am I missing?
    The original, lousy video and German audio but you will get the idea https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqzVglze9Nk

    Steve Rowe from here showing his version https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0PyFjtSHrE
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
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    150

    Lots of Ideas Out There

    You can see the jig I built some time ago. Worked great. I have since sold my slider but am going to buy another one soon and will build the same thing. Maybe some slight improvements but all in all it worked well: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...62#post2058362

  9. #39
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    Dec 2006
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    Toronto Ontario
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    What is the "shorter fence"? Link?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    The shorter crosscut fence is the one that functions like a mitre gauge, it attaches directly to the sliding table. It's 900mm long.

    The longer fence is the one used with the outrigger, it's 1,300mm long....................Rod.

  10. #40
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    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
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    Thanks

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  11. #41
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    Fedde, do you have an arrangement to square the stop to the blade when it is mounted to the table or do you manually do that each time. A photo of your stop would be nice.
    Sorry, missed your post (I have to get used to this non-chronologic forum).
    I don't have the Hammer yet, but what I think is that when you make the Fritz und Franz jig you make a squaring rail on the jig it self, which slides into the T-groove of the sliding table. But that is only an assumption!

  12. #42
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    Mar 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fedde Vennix View Post
    Sorry, missed your post (I have to get used to this non-chronologic forum).
    I don't have the Hammer yet, but what I think is that when you make the Fritz und Franz jig you make a squaring rail on the jig it self, which slides into the T-groove of the sliding table. But that is only an assumption!
    Fedde, you can choose whether the posts are listed via date (linear) or by threaded mode - just use the Display pull down at the top right

  13. #43
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    Oct 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fedde Vennix View Post
    Sorry, missed your post (I have to get used to this non-chronologic forum).
    I don't have the Hammer yet, but what I think is that when you make the Fritz und Franz jig you make a squaring rail on the jig it self, which slides into the T-groove of the sliding table. But that is only an assumption!
    That is correct but the front of the jig must clamp to the table or rest against something that is and usually that is the crosscut fence for simplicity as most of these saws have the outrigger and the fence at the front. Mine didn't as I ordered it without the outrigger and it was supplied with the fence at the operator end of the table as Derek's is. I found that the rail itself did not prevent movement of the jig and needed to rest against the fence to remain square to the blade. The slot does not have parallel sides as a cabinet saw has, the top opening is narrower than the slot under it.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  14. #44
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    Nov 2012
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    Southwestern CT
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    <p>
    Quote Originally Posted by Susumu Mori View Post
    My sense is that the longer slide does take a considerable amount of a stroke space
    A slider not only requires stroke space, but space to both the right and especially the left of the saw blade. A common cut is to remove a small amount from the end of an 8 foot sheet good, and that requires almost 8 feet to the left of the blade. For reasons not worth describing here, I normally have just 86 inches and it is a real source of irritation. My machine is big enough to where it is not easily moved, hence a track saw is indispensable. If the saw can be moved to a position where it accomodates such a cut, that would be a good thing.</p>
    "the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius

  15. #45
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    Oct 2005
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    The in and out feed space for any board cut on a slider or on a cabinet saw does not change, the size of the board defines the space needed.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

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