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Thread: What part is this thing missing?

  1. #1

    What part is this thing missing?

    I ask the forum's help in restoring this tool to its former greatness.


    I have more than a few T-bevels with this style of fastener.
    bevl 007.jpg

    But this earlier example is missing a nut of some kind (appears to be 1/4-20) and I'm wondering exactly what it should look like and if it's brass.
    DSCN5064.jpg
    DSCN5067.jpg
    Thanks in advance for any light you can shed on this.
    Last edited by Joe Bailey; 03-03-2015 at 11:29 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Mine does not have a nut on that end. Just the adjusting "tab" that locks the bevel.
    Don't think that you're missing anything.
    Bill
    On the other hand, I still have five fingers.

  3. #3
    It looks like possibly all you need to do is pull out the bolt, flip it around to go in the other side, possibly.

  4. #4
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    Mine of that style have a low profile brass nut. Not sure if it is a 1/4-20. If it is a Stanley it might be 1/4-28.

    This is where having a thread pitch gauge comes in handy. Trying to figure it out with a ruler is a bit tricky.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  5. #5
    It's definitely missing something -- if I were to turn it over, the assembly would just fall out.

    Jim -- it specs out at 1/4-20 via thread pitch gauge -- Thanks for the response -- from your description it sounds like a jam nut.

  6. #6
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    Chuck a piece of 1/4-20 threaded steel in your drill press or wood lathe chuck. While it rotates,use file strokes to crown one side of the nut and reduce its height to fit the height of that short stud. Screw the crowned brass nut on. If necessary,put a bit of Loctite in the threads,but be careful the Loctite does not dribble down into your bevel's body.

  7. #7
    Thanks George -- a fine solution (unfortunately I am one of those backward, hand-tool-only types, so no lathe or drill press here)

    I'm pretty sure a brass nut of those specs is still available.

  8. #8
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    I wouldn't bet on it. I've had to replace the whole bolt and nut on one of mine. The threads are wallowed out on the brass wing(?) nut.
    I was not able to match the threads. If you find a nut to fit it, lets us know so I can order one.

    I don't know what to call the nut with a single wing.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by lowell holmes View Post
    I wouldn't bet on it. I've had to replace the whole bolt and nut on one of mine. The threads are wallowed out on the brass wing(?) nut.
    I was not able to match the threads. If you find a nut to fit it, lets us know so I can order one.

    I don't know what to call the nut with a single wing.
    Will do.

    btw- I guess I'd call that one-winged thing a lever.

  10. #10
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    Hi Joe,

    Stanley had a habit of using non-standard thread bolts in their planes. I don't know if your bevel square is a Stanley or not, but if it is, matching it with a standard bolt and nut might be a problem. I agree with the suggestion to check the treads with a thread gauge to find out the threads per inch. I don't know if Stanley used non-standard threads on their other tools, the ones other than the planes.

    Stew

  11. #11
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    Well you didn't ask but . . .

    Joe,
    no lathe or drill press here)
    "SHOCKING" (to quote Bond)

    Joe . . . that's barbaric . . . how to you get along ?

    Since I have nothing constructive to add and too much couch time under my belt I might suggest/mention/recommend:

    Drill press : watch the local ads; my first drill press was a bench top model (maybe a Grizzly; label was missing) I got it for $75. You can just see it there on the left side of the photo of my shop assistant (Q). I have had it for twenty five years (the drill press not Q), I used it hard to the max and still works like the day I got it. I finally bought a big floor model once I lost access to the ones (drill or mill) at various places I have worked.

    Lathe : if you get the drill press it would help you make a Roy Underhill spring pole lathe out of wood. A nice woodworking project.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Winton Applegate; 03-03-2015 at 7:47 PM.
    Sharpening is Facetating.
    Good enough is good enough
    But
    Better is Better.

  12. #12
    Is the lever threaded? It has to be, no? I'm curious why it would fall out if you simply put the bolt in from the other side, and use the lever as the nut. I know I've seen them built like that. Anyhow, just curious.
    Last edited by John Coloccia; 03-03-2015 at 7:29 PM.

  13. #13
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    I'm curious why it would fall out if you simply put the bolt in from the other side, and use the lever as the nut.
    The design requires a nut on both sides. The images in the OP are of two different gauges.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  14. #14
    Stew
    Yes -- well aware of non-standard threads as used by Stanley, but have a look ...
    U5106.jpg

    Winton, my good man ...
    It is not for want of money nor space that I operate without power tools.
    As late as the late 70s, I had the whole complement of power tools. Nuff said.

    John,
    Hopefully these last two pics will make everything clear in a way that no amount of words will. Bear in mind that the flats on the side of the threaded bit pass through a similarly shaped slot cut into the brass plate on the non-lever side of the bevel (see last photo in original post)

    U5098.jpg
    This assembly is what I said would just fall out without a nut on the other end.
    U5101.jpg
    Last edited by Joe Bailey; 03-03-2015 at 8:57 PM.

  15. #15
    Oh, I see. For some reason, I was seeing it as almost like a carriage bolt that was just assembled wrong. You can imagine why I was confused! I should have looked closer. Yeah, that style came with a really peculiar looking brass nut.

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