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Thread: What's the difference between hide glue and liquid hide glue?

  1. #1

    What's the difference between hide glue and liquid hide glue?

    I need to make some storage boxes for metrology instruments, and the research I have done recommends staying away from modern white & yellow glues, as they can out gas chemicals that can damage the instruments. From what I have read I should use Hide glue, but i can't find any information on the chemical differences between granular hide glue, and old browns /titebond liquid hide glue.


    Does anyone know what the difference is?
    -Dan

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Peachtree City, GA
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    The Schwarz uses it all the time. Not sure on the main difference, other than you don't need a glue pot!
    Maurice

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by dan sherman View Post
    I need to make some storage boxes for metrology instruments, and the research I have done recommends staying away from modern white & yellow glues, as they can out gas chemicals that can damage the instruments. From what I have read I should use Hide glue, but i can't find any information on the chemical differences between granular hide glue, and old browns /titebond liquid hide glue.


    Does anyone know what the difference is?
    Liquid hide glue uses urea or salt to retard the glue giving it a longer open time than hot hide glue but it will also remain somewhat "flexible" after it sets vs. hot hide which cures hard. With hot hide glue you can do "rub" joints, not so much with liquid. Both have their place in my shop, either is better than the modern glues with the exception of use for joints exposed to water.

    As always with all things wood....YMMV.

    ken

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    Lubbock, Tx
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    What Ken said. I've been using Old Brown for a bit and just ordered a glue pot and some 192 gram from TFWW.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Williamsburg,Va.
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    Very accurate,Ken. I'd recommend the hot hide glue as it contains no extra chemicals.

  6. #6
    Old Brown just has urea as an additive. Titebond liquid hide has several other chemicals in it. Old Brown will cure as hard as hot hide glue, just takes longer.
    "The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes." - Proust

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Portland, OR
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    According to the MSDS, the Titebond liquid hide glue contains ammonium thiocyanate and cyanoguanidine, while Old Brown Glue contains urea. In both cases this is of course in addition to the collagen. I don't know if the Titebond additives would react with or damage metrology instruments in any way, but I'd think to be on the safe side the first choice would be hot hide glue and second choice Old Brown. (In general, I have nothing against Titebond's liquid hide glue, in fact I use it most of the time because it's available at my local hardware store.)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Coastal Massachusetts
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    I use Old Brown glue.
    I keep it in the fridge.

    Do not heat yours in the microwave.
    It should be immersed in hot water
    to be made ready.

  9. #9
    Another vote for Old Brown if you're not going to use fresh hot hide glue. I personally think it's superior to Titebond's hide glue.

  10. #10
    Thanks for all the info guys, I'll order some hot hide glue this evening!
    -Dan

  11. #11
    If you want a cheap glue pot, and I don't recommend a cheap glue pot, the old standby (and my first glue pot) was a "hot pot". Look it up online and you'll see how people adapt them. Basically, you just put some marbles on the bottom, cut a hole in the top, and for $25 worth of pot, candy thermometer and jars, you'll have a functional glue pot.

    And then one day you'll get sick of it and you'll buy the expensive glue pot, but this will get you going.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by John Coloccia View Post
    If you want a cheap glue pot, and I don't recommend a cheap glue pot, the old standby (and my first glue pot) was a "hot pot". Look it up online and you'll see how people adapt them. Basically, you just put some marbles on the bottom, cut a hole in the top, and for $25 worth of pot, candy thermometer and jars, you'll have a functional glue pot.

    And then one day you'll get sick of it and you'll buy the expensive glue pot, but this will get you going.
    I was going to do a double boiler style set up, using a single element electric stove I have. I use it all the time when I need to heat up wax, oil, or epoxy. for as cheap as it was it works really well, and when turned all the way down, it produces almost no heat.
    -Dan

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Victoria, BC
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan sherman View Post
    I was going to do a double boiler style set up, using a single element electric stove I have. I use it all the time when I need to heat up wax, oil, or epoxy. for as cheap as it was it works really well, and when turned all the way down, it produces almost no heat.
    Thats how I started. Got sick of it, and bought a glue pot. Still use old brown glue, tho.'
    Paul

  14. #14
    I managed to find a barely used Hold Heet glue pot for $35, and it even came with Hot Hide Glue granules. I haven't used it yet though. Plan to on the next project upcoming.

  15. #15
    I ordered a pound of 192 gram granuals, and it' supposed to be here tomorrow so I'll see how it goes.
    -Dan

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