Drum Sander for dimensioning wood

[Fidel Fernandez]

I just ordered a drum sander (This is the first time that I will have one or use one) and got some questions.

I have my jointer for the initial dimensioning, but when I joint several pieces to make a wider piece I need to remove some more material.
The wood can move after the joining and cause not being flat, so I need to sand or plane by hand to get to the right dimension.

That is the reason I ordered the drum sander to help with the last dimensioning.

What sandpaper grit should I use to start the dimensioning? Is it good idea to start with a grit like (60 - 80) or is it too much?

Should the "grit protocol" be the same for regular ¾ or ½ thickness and ⅛ or 1/16 veneer cut at the band saw? or the veener should use a higher grit because it is too thin.
I don't plan to use it for commercial veneer.

[Cary Falk]

I find that the scratches left by 60 and 80 grit are pretty deep. I just leave 120 grit in all the time. The sander is not a planer and is very slow if used as one.

[Bill Huber]

I agree, 60 or 80 grit leave very deep lines in the board, I use 100 or 120 the most.

I get 4/4 boards and plan them down to just over 3/4", like a 1/64". Then this is for panels, I will glue them up and then put it though the sander, this brings them down to the 3/4" I want and cleans up any glue squeeze out there was.

I also use the sander for thin boards, if I want a 1/4" board for a box or something I will resaw a 4/4 board to just thicker then the 1/4" I want and then sand out the resaw marks with the sander and bring it down to the 1/4" I want.

One thing I would say is to order one or two crepe sticks, they really help make the sand paper last longer.
http://www.rockler.com/abrasive-cleaning-stick

[William C Rogers]

I just leave 120 on the drum sander. I do just like Bill does.

[David Kumm]

I almost always used 80 and 120 on my double drum. After a couple of passes both grits are somewhat finer but the 120 would remove the 80. If running a single drum, you will likely do more than one pass and final grit anyway so 80 to get close goes a little faster, followed by a couple of passes at 120. Sanders can't take much of a bite or the belt burns. I seldom went finer than 150 for that reason. Dave

[Jim Andrew]

When I am glueing up panels, I size the wood 13/16". Then I run a 60 grit belt, until I get the offsets ground down. Then I switch to a 120 belt and take the thickness down to 3/4". Of course I am using a small widebelt sander.

[Matt Day]

Are we correct in assuming that you have a planer?

[John Coloccia]

Give HEAVY DUTY abranet a try. I run that on my drum sander, and it pretty much lasts forever, never clogs and never burns. Far superior to regular sandpaper, IMHO.

[Peter Aeschliman]

Are we correct in assuming that you have a planer?

Exactly my question. If you don't have a planer, I recommend putting your money there first.

[Fidel Fernandez]

I am sorry, I always called a jointer. It is a jointer/planner combination.

so, Yes I have a planner.

[Fidel Fernandez]

John Coloccia,

What grit do you use with the abranet?
I use abranet on my Mirka and I like it.

[glenn bradley]

Give HEAVY DUTY abranet a try. I run that on my drum sander, and it pretty much lasts forever, never clogs and never burns. Far superior to regular sandpaper, IMHO.

It always amazes me that as much stuff as I look at, I am still caught by surprise. I did not know that Mirka made Abranet in rolls. What grits do you use John?

[glenn bradley]

I am sorry, I always called a jointer. It is a jointer/planner combination.

so, Yes I have a planner.

So, when you say "The wood can move after the joining and cause not being flat", do you mean the wood moves after the jointing operation or the planing operation?

To you original question, I use 60 and 80 for thicknessing but, do this rarely and use the planer for this function most often. The sander is great for thicknessing by very small increments in which case this is more jut sanding and I start at 120 and move up through the grits to whatever level suits my need.

My drum sander has a solid drum and an abrasive feed belt. I only mention this so that you don't get frustrated in trying to accurately thickness stuff with hook and loop paper or a rubber feed belt. There is too much flex there to work for me. YMMV.

[John Coloccia]

John Coloccia,

What grit do you use with the abranet?
I use abranet on my Mirka and I like it.

It always amazes me that as much stuff as I look at, I am still caught by surprise. I did not know that Mirka made Abranet in rolls. What grits do you use John?

Mostly 80 grit. The heavy duty stuff is pretty thick, and it's not the easiest thing to wrap and make fit. OK, you've been warned. That said, I have no trouble making it work. What's nice is that without clogging, it just simply doesn't burn, glaze or do any of the other terrible things that drum sanders are notorious for. I use mine for post glue cleanup, and fine dimensioning when it needs to be exact. The 80 grit does leave some scratches, just as you'd expect, but it bothers be not one bit.

I think someone else here may have tried the non heavy duty roll in theirs. I forget how it turned out. I've not tried it, but that's something to look into also. I didn't personally think it would hold up very well, so I didn't even bother.

[Rick Potter]

John,

Do you have Velcro on your drum sander, or clips? I am wondering about heat ruining the Velcro, as it does on a ROS, where we add the interface pad.