VFD installation help

[Zach Duran]

So i just received a VFD i bought to run my powermatic 60 jointer, with a 3 phase motor. however, it doesn't appear to be as simple as, "plug motor into VFD, plug vfd into wall, joint away!" I do not have any electrical experience beyond replacing light fixtures and adding power receptacles around the house. Im sure ill be able to figure it out, but could use some help along the way. does anybody have any info or links that could supplement the manual to help me get this thing in? It seems like the vfd will have to be hard wired into the 240 outlet, and therefore mounted to the wall. this may create a problem since i would like to put my jointer on a mobile base. could i mount the vfd directly to the jointer, or is this not advised? Again, any info or general advice is much appreciated. thanks!!

[M Toupin]

All my machines are on a mobile bases including the 7 with VFD's, my shop is very small and everything needs to be rolled out to use. Install the VFD in the base and wire it with a cord with a plug end. Since it's a joiner you only need a 3 wire control for on/off and I assume you can use the existing controls. Not exactly the same, but here's a pic of my PM90 with the VFD in the base. A VFD is fairly simple to wire, T1, T2, T3 to the motor and L1, L2 to the 220V 1ph input. That's the mosta basic and will get you powered up. The controls are all low voltage, not difficult, but might be new if you've never messed with them. What make/model VFD? I might have a wiring diagram for the controls.

Mike

[Zach Duran]

thanks mike. i have a Teco fm50-202-c vfd. I just read about needing to fuse both hot wires from a 230v line voltage. is this something you have done as well, and if so, how is this done? the only fuses I've worked with in music audio equipment is mounted in a special housing.

[Mike Delyster]

Here are some wiring diagrams for the FM50. The first is for a maintained switch and the second is for a momentary switch.
FM50 Wiring Diagram - Two Wire.jpg
3wireVFD.jpg

[M Toupin]

I usually use the original starter to power on the VFD on and then the original low voltage controls to operate the VFD (and start/stop the motor). The starters have fusing built in with the heaters, the plug counts as you're disconnect. I'm guessing you already have the starter which you can reuse with 1 phase, though you'll probably need to change out the heaters for the increased amperage for 1 phase. Not a big deal, even old stock is available and they're not expensive. You can also reuse the original low voltage controls (push buttons) which should consist of a NC (normally closed) and a NO (normally open) switch. Wire them like the second diagram Mike posted. I'm not a fan of maintained switches as the machine can restart if you loose power and it comes back on. The 3 wire control arrangement cuts the power in the event of power loss and won't restart the machine if power comes back on.

The first one is a bit daunting, but after you figure it out you'll wonder why you were so apprehensive. It's not difficult, just set everything up on the workbench and figure out you're connections. It's a lot easier than trying to fight with the limited space in the machine and it'll make the install a lot easier.

Mike

[Larry Edgerton]

I've got a FM50 for a 3 phase drill press with a drum switch for reverse. Still have not had guts enough to tackle it. I'm like you Zach, not so much an electrician........

[Dick Strauss]

I have an FM50-203C (3hp version) that I made mobile. I use it on two lathes and a DP. All of the machines plug into a three phase locking outlet mounted on the VFD board. These machines will never be unplugged while running (see below)!

I also built other VFD systems based on the FM50 for friends that made homemade wire strippers, etc.

Zach,
I'd suggest you set up a two pole (220V) switch before the connection to the VFD. Your house circuit breaker acts as the fuse for the two legs going into the switch which then goes to the VFD. Since you won't be changing speeds, I'd suggest mounting a simple low voltage start/stop switch on the lathe (no for/rev or speed switches since you don't need it on a jointer). You don't need/want to use the heater or starter circuit from the original jointer because you never want to disconnect the load (ie use your existing switch on the jointer) otherwise you could damage the VFD (it states it clearly in the manual). Your setup only requires two low voltage wires for control (along with four conductors to the machine...one for each phase x3 and one for the ground). Send me a PM and I'll walk you through everything with pics.


Larry,
I'd suggest not using any switches on the DP including the reverse drum switch because disconnecting the load might damage the VFD. I would leave the switches but disconnect all wiring from the switches and hard wire all connections "on". For your machine I'd suggest a box containing a start/stop, for/rev, and a speed switch in a remote box moiunted by magnets. You will need some sprinkler wire or similar that has at least 7 small condusctors for the low voltage controls and a 4 wire cord for the motor to VFD connection. Send me a PM and I'll walk you through everything with pics.

Take care,
Dick